Heavy fuel consumption, left side exhaust red hot, speed drops and engine stalls

Tiny
ONALO
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 INFINITI PATHFINDER
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 58,000 MILES
Good evening sir, please I just bought this Infiniti fx 35 SUV and I entered pathfinder in your column because there is no better arrangement for Infiniti otherwise, I won't have been able to complete my post to you.

In fact I started noticing this problems below:

(1) A crank sound in the engine whenever I start it first thing in the morning. Although, it goes off the moment the engine starts running. But resurfaces when accelerated in rest position.

(2) The wires to the battery terminals are always very hot whenever the vehicle is running;most especially, the positive one.

(3)The headlights comes on whenever I turn on the ignition. And also when the SUV ignition is turned off with the battery wires still tightened to the battery terminals, the headlamps will just turn up thereby draining the batteries when no one is around to notice and remove or unfasten one battery terminal.

(4) The white small inner fuse box has two face melted, I then bought another one but the SUV refused to start when cranked so we decided to return the old one and it started. What could be done by this?

(5) The wind screen wiper is not functioning when being controlled from the control switch stick.

(6) the A/C, inner blower/heater is not working.
(&) the seat controls are not working.

(7) When the engine is cranked and running smoothly, it will start misbehaving by not having much compression again and even when you throttle it, the working system will be scattering like scuttling. The movement will drop, the changing of gear becomes difficult by indicating a light on the instrument cluster as ''at'' even the automatic transmission oil does not flow nor return while in motion. What could be responsible for this?

(8) The two front shaft had been removed before I bought it but I have now bought them back to be fixed back in its position. Why could they have removed them?

(9) The exhaust, where it is joined to the one coming from the engine at the left side beneath the driver's foot rest becomes very hot and reddish when driving, even worse when in hold ups ( I mean unhealthy traffic gridlock ) thereby making the engine to stall, movement becomes sluggish. The exhaust has been removed and checked and no blockade found in either of them; then refixed.

(10) When the engine is running on idle position, if you throttle and leave it to run, it will go off immediately except you restart it again.

(11) When I decided to diagnose it, this was what I got: Codes Po-001, po-002, po-003, po-004, po-005, p-1610, and p- 1611 respectively.

I'll be very happy to hear from your wealth of experience soonest.

Thanks.

Also, sorry, I forgot to tell you that question number 4. Whenever the small inner white fuse fails to function, then, no current or sparks are produced from the coils for the SUV to start when cranked. And before I forget, numbers 3 and 4 of the plugs doesn't work even after changing the two coils and plugs. Please what could be responsible for the above as well.
Thursday, October 10th, 2019 AT 12:47 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
ONALO
  • MEMBER
  • 32 POSTS
I wanted edit bought couldn't.

The number (4) paragraph continued as whenever the small white inner fuse box fails to communicate with the other fuse boxes, the chiming sound from below the steering wheel when the key is in the ignition with the driver's door opened doesn't sound neither does the blinking red light on the dashboard comes on too. By this it will never start because no current or spark will be produced from each coil head going into various spark plugs.
I want to believe that current doesn't go into numbers 3 and 4 coil heads to enable the two produce what it takes for the spark plugs to work. This means that out of 6 plugs only 4 is functional. Which means only 1, 2, 5 and 6 are the ones working in the SUV. This is in addition to my initial Nissan FX 35 SUV complaint. Thanks.
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Thursday, October 10th, 2019 AT 10:02 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

It sounds like there are multiple things happening. The red hot exhaust is a concern. Have you checked to see if the catalytic converter is plugged? That could cause the symptoms mentioned in your heading. Take a look through these links.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/catalytic-converter-replacement

Let me know if this helps or what you find. We need to focus on one thing at a time otherwise it will become too confusing.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, October 12th, 2019 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
ONALO
  • MEMBER
  • 32 POSTS
Will this make number 3 and 4 coil work? That is to produce current.
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 8:30 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome back:

I'm not sure what you are asking. If you mean will a plugged cat cause those cylinders not to work, the answer is no. However, if the cylinders are not firing, the raw fuel will cause the converter to overheat.

Let me know if that is what you meant.

Joe
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
ONALO
  • MEMBER
  • 32 POSTS
I mean the number 3 and 4 coils incerted to the spark plugs aren't working. But if you remove them and put them in another like 1 and 2, it'll work but won't still work or produce current to the coil that'll generate the current to the spark plug, so it can produce sparks to enable the car run properly.
Which means, this can cause the car to stall, consume fuel, and also the red hot exhaust.
I want to believe that something is responsible for current not to reach there through the wires. What could be responsible for this?
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Thursday, October 24th, 2019 AT 5:02 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome back:

Since the coils are good (work on the other side) then there has to be a wiring problem. Confirm there are no pins pushed in at the connection. If they are good, confirm there is no power to them. Finally, if there is no power, you have to move back to the PCM to see if power is being sent. If it is, there is a break in the wiring.

Also, check continuity to ground on those coils. I attached a portion of the wiring schematic. We need to determine if there is a power or ground issue.

Also, chances are the converter has been damaged.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Thursday, October 24th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM

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