Hard shift between second and third

Hi Dan,

A faulty range switch would not cause such symptoms. It would affect more than one gear. Most probable causes would be due to a failing shift solenoid or the clutches are worn ( if the shifting is delayed) or there is line pressure leakage.

Since problem is also present when manually shifting, the chances of it being a control problem is almost nil.

I would suggest checking for trouble codes and testing the shift solenoids.

Thank you for your thoughtful response. I have let the vehicle sit for months at a time while traveling and it is after such times that the problem has occurred but now it is all the time. When this problem first start occurring I did not realize what happened I thought I ran over something it was such a jolt, and if I pulled over turned the engine off and then started back up the problem went away making me think it was some sort of electrical issue. I am assuming the clutch would be major surgery it does have a lot of miles on it and I am trying to decide What to do. Are the solenoids located inside the transmission housing is that major surgery also? And then lastly I can minimize the hard shifting by using the winter driving button and also keeping the transmission in second for around town driving I am wondering how long the transmission would hold up under the circumstances. I did actually drive to Maine and back to Delaware a few weeks ago minimizing the hard shifting once I am on the highway it is no worries. thanks again!

I should also mention that leading up to this problem it would take excessively high rpm’s to shift from second to third, too high miles per hour above when I would normally make that shift if that is a clue at all. Especially when cold.

This sounds like you have a shaft speed sensor that is going out but to be sure can you run the codes to see if anything comes up? Here is a guide to help you get the job done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run this test and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken

OK Ken thanks so much and I will get back to you once I had the codes read. Dan

Ken, i’ve just returned from an extended trip and I’m refocusing on my hard shifting problem I tried to get the codes read yesterday but that did not work either there’s a loose wire to the connector or a bad fuse. do think it would be worth just trying to change the shift shaft sensor? Is that an expensive operation? if there’s a high probability that that is the cause maybe I should just do that please advise thank you

Do the shift indicator lights work correctly? park, drive neutral etc?

Yes they do...

Ken, I thought I would try another auto parts place to do a code read and actually they were able to read the codes this time so I’ve got a..

P0122 throttle position sensor circuit low input, and a
P0122 throttle position sensor circuit low input, and then I’ve got a P0133 HO2S-11 (bank 1 sensor 1) slow response

Does this help ......or complicate the diagnosis?

PS additionally the fuel tank pressure sensor is not working properly...

Here’s the print out,,

Don't believe the tank pressure sensor as a fault. If that was an issue you would have an EVAP code as well as a throttle position code. AutoZone LOVES to sell parts......

From the codes you posted I would check the wiring at the TPS sensor at the throttle body, as well as testing, or just replacing the TPS sensor. Setting for long periods of time can easily create corrosion. I would remove the connector and spray a bit of contact cleaner in the wire side, then plug it in/out a couple times. The TPS only uses a 5 volt signal so even a small amount of corrosion could cause a voltage issue.

That could cause the shifting issue because the PCM uses throttle position as an input for gear selection and shifting points.

However it's also possible the shift issue is mechanical and also due to it setting for long periods. I would deal with the TPS code first.

OK I will try that today and let you know how goes thanks !!

I'm sending two photos to make sure I'm identifying the right part. Is that the TPS on the right side of the first photo? and on the second photo I disconnected that connector and though it did not look corroded I sprayed it with WD-40 and reinserted it

Here’s the photos...

Hey Dan,

The TPS sensor is lower on the throttle body what you are showing is the EGR valve. The TPS is lower.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

That is the EGR valve. The TPS is under it.

Well it’s just unbelievable to me but the TPS was kind a like not pushed in to the hole where it seats and so I buy pushed it in and now everything’s fine and it shifts perfectly and it’s incredible to think that I brought this to it transmission specialist and told me it would have to be rebuilt and the mechanic told me that I should just take the car to the junkyard and now it has a new lease on life and I’m very appreciative to you guys you guys are the best so awesome thank you so much

You are welcome.

If the TPS itself was loose you may want to check it close, it should have 2 screws that hold it into the throttle body. One may have come out or the plastic may have failed, Unless you meant the connector was loose, then check that the latch on the connector is still there.

In defense of the trans shop, to them if it isn't the transmission it doesn't exist.... They can be a lot like Scrat from the Ice Age movies, with a single focus.

I'm that way with BACON..... LOL.