1998 GMC Jimmy engine keeps dieing

Tiny
IMPORTCRAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 GMC JIMMY
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 134,000 MILES
Ok here it is, I have a 98 jimmy 4x4 2dr with 134,000 miles. Alt is new, batt, k&n filter, fuel pump, water pump, pcv, ICM, spark plugs, wires, Dist. Cap, rotor, fuel filter. So no codes thrown, one day after driving about 20 miles for about 30 minutes, I stopped at a store to eat lunch truck died after 15 minutes of idling. Would not start, for about 20 minutes. Finally started drove for about 2 minutes and died. Went back to pick it up after about three hours started drove it home 20 minutes away drove fine. Had the cat and exhaust replaced cause cat was goin bad, replaced with a bolt in magnaflow high flow cat and a 40 series flowmaster muffler dumped after muffler. Ran fine for 2 days. Drove again 20 minutes away at highway speeds died again. Replaced ICM started fine. Drove home turned it off went to restart wouldnt. Finally got it to restart but after playing with the throttle pedal it hestates real bad. I'm at my wits end with this truck. I love the blazers I have three but I can't figure out whats wrong with this one. It seems to start after the truck has sat for an hour or two.
ANY HELP PLEASE, DON'T WANT TO GET RID OF IT. But I didn't pay much for it.
Thursday, January 10th, 2008 AT 4:35 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
I know you replaced the fuel pump but id double check the plug that plugs into sending unit. Look very closely at the black wire and the gray wire. Check to see if they are burnt or the connector might look a little melted. Check back
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Thursday, January 10th, 2008 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
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I did when I replaced it about 6 months ago, but since then I've put less than 1000 miles on the truck.
How would that make the truck just turn off and then start again an hour later after it cools off. And not right away. Plus the pump is priming everytime. As it is suppose to.

Cleaned MAF last night and reset the ECM still no luck, doesn't seem like it's going to die now but it stumbles in park while accelarating and while trying to drive.

As of today sat the 12th. I checked my plug wires to make sure they were connected still, took the egr valve, and blew out the build up, changed the egr valve with one off my other blazer. Drove it around thought it was ok drove it for 20 minutes beating it up. Ran great like new again. Thought everything was great and it was fixed, bout to shut it down and decided to wait till IAT got to 100 degrees or over. Since that's when it seems to mess up. It hit 102 degrees so I shut it down, restarted it worked fine but as soon as I stepped on the gas it would miss and act as if it were goin to die. Still stumbling and hesitating. And now won't start again. It seems to do this as soon as I hit over 100 degrees on IAT. HELP!

Ok just went back outside after letting it set for an hour. IAT is now reading 85 degrees when I started it. Started right up ran fine again, temp for IAT went down to 70 degrees runs great. So what could cause the truck to run like crap once it's at 100+ IAT?
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Thursday, January 10th, 2008 AT 5:03 PM
Tiny
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As of today I've swapped parts out of my 2000 blazer, the ECM is good, maf is good, map good, TPS is good, IAT is good, coil is good, collant sensor good, ICM is new and good.
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Sunday, January 13th, 2008 AT 3:58 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
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You said coil is good and fuel pump is good. That does not make sense to me. If you have spark fuel and compression it will run. Lets start from the beginning. When it is dead and will not run, like you said when it gets hot. Tell me if it has spark. And it has fuel.(You hear the fuel pump run). If it does not have spark we will go down that trail. Now if it has spark and still will now run, I want you to spray starter fluid into intake and see if it will run. Just because you hear the fuel pump run and you know there is fuel at the injector, that does not mean the fuel pump is good! Ive worked for a chevy dealer for a long long time and ive had countless numbers of these trucks towed to me from independent shops that cant fix them, because it has spark and fuel. These trucks will not run on less than 55-60 psi fuel pressure and adequite volume. So do those tests and we will be on the right track to fixing your truck.
!
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Sunday, January 13th, 2008 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
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But I just installed a new fuel pump like 8 months ago or less than 1000 miles ago.

Ok so went out to start truck started up fine. Checked the fuel service line, fuel sprayed out when truck was running. Truck died no fuel would spray when pressed in key was on. Is this how it's suppose to be? Or somehow could my new pump be overheating or shorting out?
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Sunday, January 13th, 2008 AT 8:47 PM
Tiny
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So ran truck tonight without airfilter. Same outcome, although tonight IAT never got to 100 degrees only up to 86 degrees. Still after about 40 - 45 minutes of idling and alittle bit of 15 mph driving around parking lot, engine still just turns off. I say turns off cause no stumble, no hestiation, no sputter just dies nice a calm like I shut it down. What would cause this. I've been debating weither or not to take it to a chevy dealership for a dign. But they told me if I'm not throwing codes then the diagn. Won't really help. So i'd hate to just waste $100. Plus I don't trust other people working on my vehicles. Plus I'm a pretty good mech. I build hot rods and cars in my spare time. But this problem I just can't seem to fix and every other car person I speak to can't put there finger on what this problem could be. Nothing makes sense. Lets start fresh. Truck is a 98 jimmy 4.3 W vin 4x4 2 dr with 134000 miles on it. New: battery, alt. ICM, plugs, wires, distr. Cap, rotor, K&N airfilter, running proper oil, new high flow cat, flowmaster 40 serious exhaust, new PCV, cleaned EGR valve, cleaned MAF, fuel pump, fuel filter. I seafoamed the engine and I run techron fuel cleaner about once a month or every other month. Also run lucos in the oil.

Before the engine shuts off, the truck runs strong as hell, like new, MPG are great. Right before this problem truck was at 180-200 miles with over half a tank left. With mainly city driving on it.
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Tuesday, January 15th, 2008 AT 2:50 AM
Tiny
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Took to dealership they say fuel pump. Wanted 1300 for it and labor. So does anyone know why a new fuel pump would work until truck warms up then drop to 44 lbs. When it was running at 65lbs. Or do I need to just replace this pump again. It's new like 7 months old with about 1000 miles on it. ? Also What would the part number be for a 98 4x4 2dr jimmy vin w code. Just want to make sure I have the right one and not the one for a four door in it. And would that make a difference.
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2008 AT 10:21 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
I hate to say I told you so. Buy the gm ac delco pump for your truck. Actually give them the v.I.N. When ordering pump. This has happened to me more times than I care to remember. These engines need high pressure and volume to run. And I dont know if I said this before but the ac delco pumps come with new wire connector for the pump due to the original factory haqrness was too weak for the amperage the pump pulls. Hope we have helped.
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2008 AT 10:49 AM

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