I have to put in a broadtail or move it around every time to start the car

Here are the pictures. Thanks!

Good evening,

The fact the fuses were missing means that the seller knew there was a issue and made it your problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

You have to find the reason for the main fuse failure. Something is causing the fuse to fail. In most cases, it is the alternator that causes this issue.

I attached some diagrams for you to view. I would start by disconnecting the alternator and see if the fuse still fails.

Roy

INSPECT CHARGING CIRCUIT WITHOUT LOAD

NOTE: If a battery/alternator tester is available, connect the tester to the charging circuit as per manufacturer's instructions.

(a)If a tester is not available, connect a voltmeter and ammeter to the charging circuit as follows:
a. Disconnect wire from terminal B of alternator, then connect ammeter negative probe to the wire.
b. Connect ammeter positive probe to B terminal of alternator.
c. Connect voltmeter positive probe to B terminal and the negative probe to ground.


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(b)Check the charging circuit as follows:
With the engine running from idling to 2,000 rpm, check the reading on the ammeter and voltmeter
Standard amperage: 10 A or less
Standard voltage: 13.9 - 15.1 V at 25°C (77°F) 13.5 - 14.3 V at 115°C (239°F)
If the voltmeter reading is greater than standard voltage, replace the IC regulator.


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If the voltmeter reading is less than standard voltage, check the IC regulator and alternator as follows:
With terminal F grounded, start the engine and check the voltmeter reading of terminal B+.

Hi Roy,

Thanks! I see from the pictures that this fuse is labeled 80A Alt(thanks for the red circles lol) Yea, Previous owner knew about it, had to.

How do I know I am blowing a 80A fuse if I don't have a fuse in it? When power flows through that little brad nail would it be powerful enough to move the nail off center causing me to have to wedge it in again to start the car?

What is the purpose of this fuse? Which way does current flow? Does this fuse send battery power to the Alternator or does this fuse transfer amps to the battery?

Do you have the complete wiring diagram?

Lastly, in the main fuse/relay box under hood(not on positive battery cable), there is a relay labeled "Main Engine"(I think you called the 80A Alt fuse "Main"(I was confused)? What does this relay "Main" do and does it have anything to do with the 80A Alt fuse. I don't have the electrical knowledge to do what your saying to do about all the testing. Looking for a work-around. You said to disconnect the alternator from the battery and see if the 80A Alt fuse blows, firstly, I don;t have the fuse only the brad nail. Secondly, even if I had a fuse in there, would the car start(thought the alternator had a wire going to ignition?).

Thanks for all your help.

What causes the 80A Alt fuse to blow? Excessive amperage coming from alternator to battery? That would mean the amps on this circuit are flowing from the alternator to the battery and the fuse blows to stop excessive amperage from overcharging the battery, is that right? If that is right, then the alternator isn't charging the battery when running necessitating having to get a jump and the battery being drawn down.

The alternator itself may be shorted out internally.

Remove the battery wire at the back of the alternator and then install the fuse and see if it fails.

Roy