Engine is Hard Starting?

Hello ..

Start by checking under the hood for loose or damp wires and connections .. especially around the spark plugs/wires/coil .. also scan for fault codes hese guides can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

Has anyone checked how many amps the starter is pulling? Chances are the starter is going bad.

Let me know.

I'm glad you found the problem. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM)
DTC P1233 or P1234 present in Key On Engine Off Self-Test
Disconnect FPDM.
Key on, engine off.
Measure voltage between the FPDM PWR pin (VPWR for Continental) and ground pin at the FPDM harness connector.
Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
If Yes REPLACE FPDM

There are two things that come to mind for this problem first is a large vacuum leak here is a guide to help confirm the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Next is a plugged catalytic converter. Here are guides to help us confirm the problem as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Before you change any parts I would find out first if it is a fuel or ignition problem that is causing the car not to start. The next time it dosen't start see if you have spark or fuel and then make the decision of what course of action to make. Start with the simple, easy and lease expensive. When was the last time you gave the car a tune up if ever? Could it be plugs, wires fuel pump? If it turns out to be a fuel related problem then you are on the right track. But if it isn't, then you could be wasting alot of time and money for nothing. Good luck and if you need additonal help we are here. :)

Check air filter and the little breather sponge that is inside the fuel filter box, if it is saturated you will have to get a new one and replace your pcv valve.

Also, have you checked fuel pressure and spark?

Are you getting check engine light ON
if so scan for codes
also check under hood for vacuum leaks check around PCV valve and its lines
have the tune up rechecked

HARD START/LONG CRANK TIME - VEHICLES WITH 3.0L OR 3.4L ENGINE
APPLICATION
Model(s): Ford: 1996-98 Taurus
Lincoln-Mercury: 1996-98 Sable
Bulletin No.: 98-21-12
Date: October 26, 1998
ISSUE
Some vehicles may experience a hard start/long crank time condition. This may be caused by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) calibration, Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, or the fuel pump depending on the vehicle symptoms. This TSB has been developed to aid the technician in diagnosis.
ACTION
Perform normal diagnostic procedure as outlined in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Service Manual. If concern is not found, refer to the following text and the DIAGNOSTIC AND INSPECTION PROCEDURES below.
Crank time is measured from voltage drop to 700 rpms. Crank time should be approximately 1 second for ambient temperatures at or above 0 °C (32 °F) and should not exceed 6 seconds at or below -29 °C (-20 °F).
Obtain an Authorized Modifications Decal (FPS 8262 - obtainable through DOES II, 25/pkg) and list the date, dealer number, and summary of modifications performed.

Select a prominent place adjacent to the Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal suitable for installing the Authorized Modifications Decal. Clean the area, install the decal, and cover it with a clear plastic decal shield.

A lazy crankshaft position sensor could cause that problem.
You probably do not have an engine light/engine code, but you can still ask Auto zone to diagnose your vehicle.( They are very helpful)When doing so, ask them the output voltage of the crankshaft position sensor with engine running.
Sensor voltage should be more than 0.1 volt AC with the engine running and should vary with engine RPM.(Can be read directly from the scanner)
If voltage is not within specification, the sensor may be faulty.
If you want to do it yourself and you do not have scanner, you can measure the voltage between the terminals by backprobing the sensor connector.