Engine is Hard Starting?

Hello ..

Start by checking under the hood for loose or damp wires and connections .. especially around the spark plugs/wires/coil .. also scan for fault codes hese guides can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

My Ford Taurus cranks slowly upon start-up. This is intermittent and usually occurs after the car has been sitting in the hot 90 degree sun. When I start the car, the battery light comes on. I had the battery check at my mechanic and the cold cranking amps was above the minimum. I have replaced the ingnition coil, spark plug wires, starter,MAF Sensor, O 2 Sensors, Air Filter. The car eventually starts after about 4 seconds of slow cranking. The battery light illuminates. The battery check revealed 700 cold cranking amps. The car starts perfectly fine after it has been sitting in my garage overnight out of the hot sun and this is intermittent. The car idles fine and no misfiring or hesitation.
Any idea where I go next?

Has anyone checked how many amps the starter is pulling? Chances are the starter is going bad.

Let me know.

My mechanic diagnosed as a bad starter relay and they replaced the starter also since it was under warranty. It runs fine now.

I'm glad you found the problem. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

i have a 2000 taurus,it starts very hard takes many tries .when it finally does get going it billows white exhaust.Once it is warmed up it starts fine.even tripped inertia switch till it stalled and starts right back up.got a code 1233 and a code on the egr valve.I've got power to the egr valve when the ignition is switched on.

Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM)
DTC P1233 or P1234 present in Key On Engine Off Self-Test
Disconnect FPDM.
Key on, engine off.
Measure voltage between the FPDM PWR pin (VPWR for Continental) and ground pin at the FPDM harness connector.
Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
If Yes REPLACE FPDM

my car will start but idles rough will not accelerate then shuts off. I have replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump relay. it ran fine for around 1,000 miles then did it again.

There are two things that come to mind for this problem first is a large vacuum leak here is a guide to help confirm the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Next is a plugged catalytic converter. Here are guides to help us confirm the problem as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

I have a 1999 Ford Taurus with a V6, 3.0 liter engine with 65,000 miles. About six weeks ago the car would not start for a couple days and then started without any service. The starter turns fine and the battery is new. I replaced the fuel filter and added some fuel injector cleaner to the gas. The car just repeated the same problem of not starting for a couple days and is now starting fine. I'm thinking that I should replace the fuel pump relay and/ or the fuel pump. What do you think?

Before you change any parts I would find out first if it is a fuel or ignition problem that is causing the car not to start. The next time it dosen't start see if you have spark or fuel and then make the decision of what course of action to make. Start with the simple, easy and lease expensive. When was the last time you gave the car a tune up if ever? Could it be plugs, wires fuel pump? If it turns out to be a fuel related problem then you are on the right track. But if it isn't, then you could be wasting alot of time and money for nothing. Good luck and if you need additonal help we are here. :)

i'm having trouble getting my 99 ford taurus to start. it acts as though it is going to start but it will not turn over all the way. my car has a new fuel filter,mass air flow sensor and a new battery. i've run out of things that it might be. please help. thank you

check air filter and the little breather sponge that is inside the fuel filter box, if it is saturated you will have to get a new one and replace your pcv valve.

also, have you checked fuel pressure and spark?

The past few days when i start my car it runs really rough, like it has a really bad miss. i let it run for about 3-4 mins and it smoothes out and have no problem. i just changed the plugs and wires about 7 months ago. any suggestions

Are you getting check engine light ON
if so scan for codes
also check under hood for vacuum leaks check around PCV valve and its lines
have the tune up rechecked

My car sporadically (once a week usually) will not start. I found that by pressing the accelerator to the floor and turning it over, the car will start. The rest of the time, it starts and runs fine without having to mash the gas. I've noticed it has always had a high idle when it is first started. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, and PCV valve. It was scanned at the dealership and showed no error codes. I was thinking of trying the idle air control valve or EGR valve. Maybe vacuum line leak somewhere? Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks

HARD START/LONG CRANK TIME - VEHICLES WITH 3.0L OR 3.4L ENGINE APPLICATION Model(s): Ford: 1996-98 Taurus Lincoln-Mercury: 1996-98 Sable Bulletin No.: 98-21-12 Date: October 26, 1998 ISSUE Some vehicles may experience a hard start/long crank time condition. This may be caused by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) calibration, Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, or the fuel pump depending on the vehicle symptoms. This TSB has been developed to aid the technician in diagnosis. ACTION Perform normal diagnostic procedure as outlined in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Service Manual. If concern is not found, refer to the following text and the DIAGNOSTIC AND INSPECTION PROCEDURES below. Crank time is measured from voltage drop to 700 rpms. Crank time should be approximately 1 second for ambient temperatures at or above 0 °C (32 °F) and should not exceed 6 seconds at or below -29 °C (-20 °F). Obtain an Authorized Modifications Decal (FPS 8262 - obtainable through DOES II, 25/pkg) and list the date, dealer number, and summary of modifications performed.

Select a prominent place adjacent to the Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal suitable for installing the Authorized Modifications Decal. Clean the area, install the decal, and cover it with a clear plastic decal shield.

The situation started 3 weeks ago.

Im turning the key in the ignition like normal 2 to 3 times before my car will start.

When turning the ignition the car makes all of the normal sounds. I can hear the engine turning over. But I don't feel the cars engine catching.

When I push the gas peddal while trying to start the car, It has little to no effect. I DONT FEEL ANY DIFFERANCE. Its if I'm not pressing it at all.

Once the car is started it drives like a dream. NO idle problems, No excelleration problems, It feels like its brand new.

With in the last month my machanic has :
changed the all Spark Plugs,
cleaned the Intake Manifold,
changed the Fuel Pressure Sensor,
and changed the Electrical Fuel Pump.

A lazy crankshaft position sensor could cause that problem.
you probably do not have an engine light/engine code,but you can still ask Auto zone to diagnose your vehicle.( they are very helpful)When doing so, ask them the output voltage of the crankshaft position sensor with engine running.
Sensor voltage should be more than 0.1 volt AC with the engine running and should vary with engine RPM.(can be read directly from the scanner)
If voltage is not within specification, the sensor may be faulty.
If you want to do it yourself and you do not have scanner, you can measure the voltage between the terminals by backprobing the sensor connector.

I had my mechanic test the sensor with no luck. He is currently replacing the fuel pump again. This time he is using one he got directly from the Ford dealership.

I should get my car back tonight. I will send you another email if the problem still persists.

With newer cars these days and all thier gizmos and gadgets it could be the mass air flow sensor, the map sensor, i second the Crankshaft sensor, or the ignition control module, i have seen a low battery cause these things, could even be the air filter, with all these electronics i would say get a code reader and use the internal computer tell u whats misreading, though they can read faulty. one problem may be causing another. good luck hope everything works out

Hello 1800carpro

Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed
(starter/ battery cables)), good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engine fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one?insufficient cranking speed will never show any engine code.
keep me updated and we will work on it.

Cranking speed is not a primary factor in starting an engine as much as fuel mixture and system voltage. if the engine is getting correct spark timing and the injector sprays and the air mix is sufficient then it should sputter at least. you could turn the engine by hand and start it if the ignition fires with fuel/air mixture in the cylider combustion will take place forcing the piston downward in turn turning the crankshaft if this motion continues as it should you have a running engine(Not Recommended its No model A). still believe an upper level code reader(A good one not a walmart special.) is a better diagnostic tool that the good ole fashioned try this method. its not a 65 ford with points ignition or it would be alot simpler. if u can take it to a dealer they can tell you whats exactly wrong theen u can fix it your self.