Engine losing power?

It sounds like the fuel pump is going out but be sure this guide can help us and I have included a video to show you how to the fuel pump can be replaced on a similar car.

https://youtu.be/SOmd3BoE4YU

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.

yes the engine check light is on but it has been on ever since i got it inspected. So I did the fuel pump the video helped the car has never run better thanks!

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Why is my car losing power? The tachometer is running up but the car will not respond to acceleration, and car shuts off. Ignition wiring recently replaced.

From the information that you have presented, it sounds like the transmission may be the problem. If the tach is running up correcponding to engine sound, and the car is not accelerating, it might indicate that the transmission is slipping.

I would start by scanning for codes. Not all transmission problems will light the MIL light. That is, the "check engine" or "service engine soon" light.

After running the air condition for a while the engine seems like it is choking out with lost of power. Have change spark plugs and wires. Can pull over and turn car of and then recrank it and all seems fine without air condition on.

A/C compressors put a very small load on the engine but nothing like you describe. If the compressor started to drag to that extent, it would cause the belt to slip and make noise so i suspect your problem is somewhere other than the A/C. You can have gauges put on the A/C to see if there is any high pressure or anything that would indicate an A/C problem.

Car lugs and loses total power like its out of gas. I have cleaned the injectors replaced the plugs, plug wires, pcv valve, distributer cap, drove the car 37 miles check engie light came on again code this time lean bank 2. I cleaned the mass air flow senser. All this made it run better but it still lugs and loses power the check engine light is still on. At least its drivable now any suggestions or experienses would be helpfull thanks in advance.

What was the code ?
check for a vacuum leak and intake gasket
also do a fuel pressure test

The code is lean on bank 2 thanks again

p0174??? only

yes sir p0174 that was the only code thanks again for taking the time to help others in need

1.HO2S sensors are not likely to be the cause of adaptive DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175: Most warranty-returned HO2S sensors (replaced for these DTCs) are found to function normally. Additional related DTCs will normally be present if there is a concern with the HO2S sensors. Do not replace an HO2S sensor unless verified through pinpoint diagnostic tests found in the PC/ED Service Manual.

2.DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174, and P0175 are not related to downstream HO2S sensors: When diagnosing a vehicle with a MIL On and DTC(s) P0171, P0172, P0174, and/or P0175 in continuous memory, do not replace the downstream HO2S sensors. These DTCs have no connection to the downstream HO2S sensor function nor its diagnosis for faults. Always verify the vehicle concern, then perform the pinpoint diagnostics from the appropriate PC/ED Service Manual.

3.Diagnosing lean conditions and lean DTCs P0171, P0174: Freeze Frame Data can often help to identify the type of lean condition, even if the fault is intermittent, by indicating how the vehicle was being driven when the fault occurred. Diagnosis of lean conditions and lean adaptive DTCs can be difficult, especially if the concern is intermittent. Verifying the concern is extremely important. There are different types of lean conditions. The ability to identify the type of lean condition causing the concern can be crucial to a correct diagnosis. When DTCs P0171 and P0174 are both present, there is a strong likelihood of another concern being present: a.Vacuum leaks/unmetered air: In this type of condition, the engine may actually run lean of stoichiometry (14.7:1 air/fuel ratio) if the PCM is not able to compensate enough to correct for the condition. This condition is typically caused by air entering the engine through an abnormal source (opening), or due to a MAF malfunction. In this situation, the volume of air entering the engine is actually greater than what the MAF is indicating to the PCM. Vacuum leaks will normally be most apparent when high manifold vacuum is present, during idle or light throttle. If Freeze Frame Data indicates that the fault occurred at idle, a check for vacuum leaks/unmetered air when the engine is cold might be the best starting point.

Examples: Loose, leaking or disconnected vacuum lines, intake manifold gaskets or O-rings, throttle body gaskets, brake booster, air inlet tube, stuck/frozen/aftermarket PCV valve, unseated engine oil dipstick, MAF reading lower than normal, etc.
b.Insufficient fueling: In this type of condition, the engine may actually run lean of stoichiometry (14.7:1 air/fuel ratio) if the PCM is not able to compensate enough to correct for the condition. This condition is typically caused by a fuel delivery system concern that restricts or limits the amount of fuel being delivered to the engine. This condition will normally be most apparent when the engine is under a heavy load, when a higher volume of fuel is required. If Freeze Frame Data indicates that the fault occurred under a heavy load, a check of the fuel delivery system (checking fuel pressure with engine under a load) might be the best starting point.
Examples: Low fuel pressure (fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel leaks, restricted fuel supply lines), fuel injector concerns, etc.
c.Exhaust system leaks: In this type of condition, the engine may actually be running near stoichiometry (14.7:1 air/fuel ratio), but the exhaust gas mixture will be lean. This condition is caused by oxygen-rich air entering the exhaust system through an external source. This condition will cause the exhaust gas mixture to be lean, even though the actual combustion in the engine may not be.
Examples: Exhaust system leaks upstream or near HO2S, malfunctioning Secondary Air Injection system.
d.MAF concerns

I have a 1999 Ford Taurus. The mileage is 198,000. It has an automatic transmission. It is a 6 cylinder. While driving yesterday I went over some railroad tracks and my car would not accelerate. After pulling over and trying all the different gears it would not go anywhere. The engine ran perfectly but it will not go anywhere.

i had the same problem with a chevy. went through all the gears while it was running and wouldn't move. auto transmission. mechanic told me it was the transmission linkage and that it's not too expensive to fix. (a couple hundred) can be done if you have some repair knowledge. contact a local mechanic to get more info. but be careful towing because if it falls into gear it curt damage the transmission

Sending this for my daughter. last thing she needs is big troubles. she is in law school. no money for a couple of years. augh!!!
please advice. will be greatly appreciated. here is the info she gave me. this happened on her way to KU from wichita yesterday.

Above 60 MPH, it jerks and the rpms go down about 250 and then go right back up. Turning cruise on or off didn't seem to help. Turning the AC off made it better...just dipped rpms going downhill.

thank you,
deborah

The trans could be going in and out of OD.Is the check engine light on? This could be an indicator of the PCM seeing a problem in the trans.Check the fluid level, and have it serviced if it hasnt been done, this may help. If the check engine light is on, have the PCM scanned for codes.

Hello, our 1998 Ford Taurus, with 147,000 miles, recently has had a recurring problem with loss of power while driving. The power returned, but it's doing it more frequently; especially when it's idling low at a stoplight, it shuts down.

We recently had it repaired for other work a month ago, and the mechanic mentioned changing the sensors because he had a problem with loss of power while test driving our vehicle.

Is it worth getting this vehicle repaired or just save the money for a newer vehicle?

Thanks so much.

What is "loos of power" ??? Car won't go?? Car stalls at stop?? Car goes down the road and stalls at speed??? What sensors were replaced??? Were there codes to indicate these sensor issues???

Hi, I'll try to provide a little more info.

It's my husband's vehicle, and he described it as losing power. While driving at 30/40 mph, the speedometer suddenly drops to zero, then goes back to regular speed. Also, the car has been stalling at traffic lights.

Two months ago, my husband took his car to a mechanic and described the problem as the car struggling to get up to speed, that even with the gas pedal to the floor, the car struggled.

This is what I can determine by mechanic's handwriting on sales bill:

- SE3 light on
- Scan for codes
- Replace O2 sensor Bank 1 - Sensor 1
- Clear (or clean) codes
- Replace blower fan relay
- Recharge A/C system

I hope this gives you a little more information to work with.

Thanks for your help.

Here's the many symptoms my car is having- upon start up, idle revs to almost 2000 rpm and stays there for a few minutes before finally falling to 1k; when driving, if i turn on the blower or push both window controls at the same time, the lights dim and the rpms drop; the car has horrible acceleration, almost like it is straining to go faster; absolutely no response when i push the gas pedal. I'm not a mechanic, but more of a weekend warrior. Car has new Mass airflow sensor, throttle position sensor, air filter, tuned up recently... really stumped as to what is causing this? any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Check teh charging system as far as the dim lights go, have the alt and battery load tested, this can be done on the car. Poor performance, if it only idles down to 1k, you probably have a vacuum leak that is messing with the mixture.Use carb cleaner to carefully spray around the intake area, when you spray a leak, the idle will change.Look at the fitting where the PCV line connects to the intake, they go soft and leak all of the time. If the check engine light is on, have the PCM scanned for codes and get back to me

I had autozone check the charging system and said the battery and alternator check out perfect... any other ideas what would cause this? Not sure if it's related, but when i kick on the blower the motor loses even more power and it also shutters in spurts (almost like the car got goosebumps real quick and had a little shaking fit)... Ever heard of those things or what could be causing it?

Also, somebody mentioned the IAC may be faulty? Is there a way to check the old one before going and buying a $50 dollar sensor?

If ti only happens at idle, the IAC coudl be slow to react, causing the engine to slow down.Try cleaning out th e throtle bore with carb cleaner and a rag first to see if it will stabilize the idle. Teh IAC only affects idle quality.

Need help tired of just changing parts.

scanfor codes and check fuelpressure with a gauge first.autoparts rent the gauge

My catalytic converter has been replaced, and air flow censer has been replaced, and my fuel filter has been replace. My car still hesitates and back fire after engine gets hot. While idling the car run find going up a hill it dogs out as if it is running out of gas than it back fires.

did you even read my reply? if you don't do that first then you might as well have amechanic do it for you.

Electrical problem
1998 Ford Taurus Two Wheel Drive Automatic 150000 miles

I get into my car at times and my radio is zeroed out like the battery has died however, the car starts just fine. Then when I drive the car and go from a higher RPM to a lower RPM all the lights in the car and the radio and A/C go all dim/out but they come back on instantly.Only have had the battery act totally dead twice once my husband jumped it and it was fine the second time I went into the house to get him left the keys in the egination and by the time I got back all the lights were on and it started gine. The headlights do intermittenly flicker from regular to dim. The ground wire was loose so we tighted that, he battery has been checked and is fine, the AIC had acted up but reset when we unhooked the battery as suggested by your site...
Any ideas? The guy next door is a car guy and he says when the lights and a/c are going out the engine is not losing power that it is electrical which he does not do..

Have you checked all grounds? Also, have you had the alternator checked?

The grounds have been checked and tightened and because it is only the lights and a/c I have been told the altenator is fine

You mentioned when the RPMs drop. Could it be due to the rpm's getting low enough that the alt doesn't produce enough current for a second?

Not real sure but it has been doing this for a couple of months...could it be the voltage regulator and in this model is it in the alternator?

It could be the voltage regulator. It is part of the alternator. If you remove the alternator, most parts stores can bench test it to see what is happening. That would be a good idea.

Vehicle starts and runs good for driving. All fluids are where they need to be. When I first start the car in the morning and the first complete stop I come to the car will not accelerate foward, RPMS's will go up. I have to either shut the car off and turn it back on for it to accelerate or I can put it reverse and then back into drive for it to accelerate. It will do it at most complete stops but has no trouble shifting gears, getting put into gear, or accelerating once it actually goes.

Hello my name is Dave.

Have you checked for any trouble codes? If you don't have any trouble codes I would start with a transmission service making sure to use Mercon V. If you have any trouble codes that would be greatly helpful in tracking down the issue. I see that you are a mechanic, do you have a scanner so you can see the live data? If you do I would use the scanner to see what gear the PCM indicates is selected at the time of the failure as it sounds like there could possibly be an issue with the gear range selector (neutral safety switch) that clears up once it's warmed up or reset by turning it off or manually changing the gears. Please keep us updated on your progress and let us know if you find any trouble codes and thank you for using 2CarPros!

car has new cadiltic converter oil in exhust and engine has no power but will eventually arrive at the desired speed. thank you.I will give a donation if I get a decent answer.(and I am sorry I dont mean that rudely.

Hi there,

The oil in the exhaust will be coming from a failed piston ring or oil control ring, for oil to be in the exhaust there must be a substantial problem, I would think that the catalytic converter is choked with oil and rendered fairly useless, this will cause a build up in back pressure which would account for the poor engine performance. I would be checking spark plugs to identify the suspect cylinder, the plug will be fouled with oil. With what you have described i feel that you have a major engine problem on your hands, and it will need further investigation.

Mark (mhpautos)

whats does it mean when service engine light flashes. Question 2 the car is a 98 taurus and when the gas is hit it shakes and feels like it either wants to shut off or hardly no power. the car when moving seems fine besides a little hesation what could it be.

means that there is a error stored in the computer, and since you are having a perforamnce issue and the light is on something is wrong.

get it scanned for codes and post back, i can then help you find out whats wrong.