Engine bogs out no power

I have seen the fuel pump cause this but to be sure lets take a look at the fuel pressure these guides can help us and the video shows the pump being replaced in a similar car.

https://youtu.be/SOmd3BoE4YU

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.

The blue smoke sounds like oil. Are you getting any fuel in the oil? Have you checked the temp sensor to make sure it's not telling the computer it's much colder that it actually is? If you pull a plug, are they wet? Was the engine a direct replacement? Check engine light on?

Running hot !
Check coolant and check for a headgasket
as if have an engine failure that would effect the tranny

195 should be OK
but if you like to switch back to the 185 would be better to run at lower temp.

Clogged convertor, low fuel pressure.

Also problems with MAF

Check and test the following below:

Oxygen sensor
Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires
Cap and Rotor

If it doesn't apply disregard it

Low RPM can be caused by the computer if it is receiving bad information from the sensors. It can also be caused by a bad ISC motor (idle speed control). BUT - with the "check engine" light flashing, you have other problems. Start by checking the fuses in the power distribution box under the hood. Also check the grounds where they attach to the radiator support. If the ground is bad to the integrated controller module on the radiator support, the car will not start or run.

What do you have for fuel pressure

Check the fuel pressure/mass airflow and throttle position sensors to include the EGR valve.

The big suspects are the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the MAF (mass air flow sensor). Also, you could have an air leak in the intake path.

It is possible that the code that was received was misinterpreted to be a problem with the A/C. Having said that, continue to the real diagnostics.

The TP sensor will set a code if it malfunctions - but not every time. If the sensor sends the PCM a "dirty" signal, it can cause hesitations. This is a good place to at least check. Check for dirty connections or corrosion on the connections.

Then there is the Mass Air Flow sensor and associated ductwork. The purpose of the mass air flow sensor is to tell the PCM how much air is entering the engine at any given time. The PCM then admits the proper amount of fuel to combine with that air to achieve the proper mixture. Any leaks of unmetered air into the engine will disturb that "perfect" mixture. Check for any kind of vacuum leaks. Examine the PCV and brake booster lines in particular. Examine the duct that goes from the MAF to the intake of the engine. Air leaks in that area are cause for major driveability problems.

Also, be warned that if the MAF goes out of calibration, in MANY cases, it will NOT set a code. If the signal it sends to the PCM is within a reasonable range - even if it is incorrect - the PCM will be satisfied, and will not set a code.

Hope this will be of some help to you. Good luck!