Idles rough

well it sounds more like sensor problem but both a sensor problem and a vacuum hose leak would cause the check engine light to come on if thats on advance auto can test it and tell you whats wrong

this guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

your electronic idle control switch might be bad that tells your engine how much gas to give while in park or neutral

but have advance test the check engine light first cause it could be several different things

We have 4 codes, PO171-system too lean bank 1, PO174- too lean bank 2, PO 301, cyl 1 misfire, andPO 305, cyl 5 misfire

Ok so lets me get some info first. What have you done at this point. Plugs, wires etc. Get back to me with that and we will go from there. Thanks.

The only change so far has been new spark plugs

just changed the wires and it runs somewhat better but it doesn't have much power. once it gets above 3000 rpms the motor shakes the truck and goin up hills 45 mph is about max speed

I currently went to autozone for a check engine light. They pulled the code which read- "Air/Gas mixture to lean". They said to replace the Mass Air Flow sensor. Which i Did. I pulled the Cables from the battery to reset the ecm but The check engine light would come back on after 30 mins of driving. Also the truck runs good when driving only bad idels at a stop or in park havent tried the neutral yet. Goin to change spark plugs now to see how that goes.

Check the idle air control valve, EGR and PCV valve

A lean fuel condition can be caused by:

* Low fuel pressure due to a weak pump or leaky fuel pressure regulator. (use a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure at idle)

* Dirty fuel injectors. (try cleaning the injectors)

* Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, vacuum hose connections or throttle body. (Use a vacuum gauge to check for low intake vacuum)

* Leaky EGR valve. (Check operation of EGR valve)

* Leaky PCV Valve or hose. (Check valve and hose connections)

* Dirty or defective Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). (Try cleaning the MAF sensor wires or filament with aerosol electronics cleaner. Do NOT use anything else to clean the sensor, and do not touch the sensor wires)

Sounds like the ignition coil is going bad. Had to replace the one in my wifes car that was throwing the same codes

Found the problem pcv elbow hose had a hole. Now fun task of finding one thanks for your help

my ford ranger has started ideling rough when i start it in the morning to warm up it dies. and when im setting with it in gear at a stop light it will idel rough then die .

sounds like its time for a throttle body cleaning service to be performed on your vehicle.

check to make sure the IAC modules pintle moves freely without any binding also.

try the idle control valve

I have a 2001 ranger and I have a rough idle I replaced the iac maf sensor pcv valve and cleaned the throttle body but still no change It runs good while driving just at idle it stumbles not to the point where it stalls just poor idle any advice would really help thanks

You could have a vacuum leak. Sometimes a bad O2 sensor will cause a rough idle as it gives the incrrect air/fuel value to the computer causing a rough idle.
Also, the throttle position sensor could play some part, but not as likely.

Vacuum leaks, compression test, check plugs and ignition system, scan for any unresolved faults, not all faults will set a light,check EGR operation, start here.

I did hook it up to a scan tool there Is no miss fires and no codes poped up and I did change the throttle position sensor as well I think its a vacum leak but wouldent that show up on the scan tool and do you think plugs and wires would solve the issue even when its not miss fireing and the o2 sensor where is that located and what does that do to make it not idle right

You can test the plug wires for resistance by the foot. I do not have specifications for that though. I will try to find them becasue that is possible.

The O2 sensor will be in the exhaust path before the catalytic converter. If it thinks the engine is running lean it will put too much gas in the mixture and it will run rough. Same goes for it thinking it is rich, but this is harder to detect and will possibly damage top end parts.

With the o2 sensor wouldent it spit a code if that was bad and the only time the check engine light has come on was for the egr valve and I took it to a mechanic and he said the egr was fine but he changed the maf sensor since that I haven't had the light come back on and I have a buddy with the scan tool and no codes at all show up so idk

Engine Mechanical problem
2001 Ford Ranger Four Wheel Drive Automatic 88200 miles

When reading the Diagnostic Codes I come up with
P1401
P1401 Heated Catalyst Current too High During Heating (Bank 1)

P0171
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)

P174
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)

P0300
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

Can you give me some idea of just what these codes mean.
If it is something simple I would like to fix it myself.
Also, I just installed a new EGR after reading a question in your website from someone that was having a problem identical to mine. The new EGR valve did not seem to have any effect.
Thanks for any help

Hi there,

P0171/174 mean your ratio air/fuel is messed up. You have too much unmetered air reaching your engine.
P0300 is a random misfire codes. Several of your cylinders are misfiring. It's probably the result of the extra air. If you fix the P0171/174 codes I'm confident it'll fix P0300 at the same time.

Okay, I can't guarantee it for sure, but a lot of time with Ford cars, when you have these codes, the culprit turns out to be the DPFE sensor. This sensor is part of your EGR system. I'm not sure where it is located on a 2001 Ranger, but I'm thinking if you look at your egr tube (the pipe that connects the exhaust manifold and the egr valve), the sensor is probably connected to it by two small hoses. By the way, that's what the P1041 code means: something is wrong with your DPFE sensor.

Take a look at it and make sure the vacuum lines are connected; but it's very possible you'll have to replace the sensor (around 50-60 buck for an aftermarket one I think).

Hope this helps.

It can be failing and not throw a code. That is one of the things that is frustrating about electrical diagnosis. Parts fail slowly or intermitantly and until the senor fails or goes out of its' specified range, (performance can still be affected when part is within specified range), it is hard to track down the failing part.
The mileage you have is not really where I would ussually see one fail, usually closer to 100,000, but it all depends on the wear and tear and maintenance on vehicle. Of course...things just happen as well.
I think the next step would be to either run some high quality fuel system cleaner, such as SEA FOAM or BG44K, and see what that does. Run a can or 2, which you might have to go to a service station to get, and be prepared to change the oil afterwards as they are so good at removing deposits it tends to dirty the oil up when used.
The other things I have in mind....if I have not mentioned already, are fuel pressure and possibly a failing fuel injector. You might check the fuel pressure manually witha gauge at a test port which should be on the fuel rail.
Try that and the fuel system cleaner first. If that does not work, it is getting near time where the O2 sensor should be replaced, by the way if you have seen a change in MPG that is a indication that it is going bad, as it is nearing the mileage I would suggest it be replaced. It never hurts eithr as MPG will be optimized as well as air/fuel ratio.
See what that does then get back to us.

You have a lean fuel condition can be caused by:

* Low fuel pressure due to a weak pump or leaky fuel pressure regulator. (use a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure at idle)

* Dirty fuel injectors. (try cleaning the injectors)

* Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, vacuum hose connections or throttle body. (Use a vacuum gauge to check for low intake vacuum)

* Leaky EGR valve. (Check operation of EGR valve)

* Leaky PCV Valve or hose. (Check valve and hose connections)

* Dirty or defective Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). (Try cleaning the MAF sensor wires or filament with aerosol electronics cleaner. Do NOT use anything else to clean the sensor, and do not touch the sensor wires)

P0300 Random Misfire normally points to vacuum leak and bad fuel

I have ran a couple bottle of fuel injector cleaner and It hasent changed a thing where is the o2 sensor and if that is going bad would that make engine stumble at idle and I have noticed my truck does not get that good gas but I figured since it has a lift and its 4wd that may have a say in it and is the o2 sensor easy to change thanks drcrankwrench for your help

Failing O2 sensors will as a rule sent the ECU into a rich mode, this will often account for poor economy and may also be the cause of the stumble, with that said, have you done a fuel rail pressure test as this can indicate a leaking injector that will also give the same problem as well, wort considering doing the test.

As far a fuel system cleaners go, you would not believe the difference in SEA FOAM and especially BG44K. BG can go for $20+ a can, but nothing else comes close to working like it does.
You will need to get some WD40 or PB Blaster to saok the sensor to ease its removal. You can find it in the exhaust path after the manifold but before the catalytic converter.
You will also need a special sovet to remove it if you connot get to it or have room to turn a wrench on it. It will have an electrical connector on it that you will have to trace up to the connector which will probalbly be as far in as the engine compartment.
I would really give the BG or SEA FOAM a chance, but plan on changing the O2 sensor anyway. Other Items that may be dirty and affect performance are the Idle Air Control Valve, which handles changes in engine load, and the Fast Idle Thermo Valve, which acts like a choke. You can try 2 cans of Bg which works so well at removing deposits, you will need to change the engine oil after using it from all the gunk it removes.
You may have to remove the throttle body and clean it and the aforementioned parts as well.
Having the lift kit will drastically change MPG, so don't consider that.
Let me know if you need anything else.

Where is the Fast Idle Thermo Valve,I have all ready replaced the iac valve cause when engine is cold and it idles at like 900 to a grand it sounds fine once it gets warm and drops to 600 or whatever it starts doing that

I have been researching your problem and found the following things;

There is a coolant sensor called a CHT, acronym..don't know what it stands for, that can fail and cause idle problems.

The Ranger does not have a seperate FIT. It is part of the TPS and IACV working with the CHT.

Your truck has a reputation for motor mounts that get loose and cause a rough and/or shaky idle.

Since your truck is dropping in idle after warm, the .."FIT Circuit" or choke circuit is working. That also means that the temp sensor is probably fine.

Since you reaplaced IACV, I found that a lot of Ranger owners helped idle issues by cleaning intake by either spraying cleaner down the TB when running, which I do not reccomend, or using Sea Foam or taking the TB and Intake apart and cleaning it.
How dirty were the small ports, or any ports that looked like they would connect with intake tract, as far as deposits?

From what I found you might check your motor mount with the standard, "Give it some gas with the hood open and the parking brake on", to see if motor moves more than it should.

That and the cleaning thing are the best options you have as the next moves to make. I don't think there is really anything, "wrong", other than possibly the motor mounts, with the motor or its idle unless its something we covered.
Those are all things you can take your time with. However, I would check into the motor mounts as that could cause you some problems.
If you find they are bad, check into Energy Suspension or other Ploy Eurethane motor mount inserts. They go into the motor mount and fill the gaps around the rubber to stiffent the mount. Some people say it is good enough to even repair a motor mount.

By the way, do you have the V-6 or the 4 cyclinder? Of course the V-6 is a little more prone to quicker mount failure but the mounts still fail on the 4 cylinder as rubber just does not hold up well with time and constant load shifting.

I hope the information helps. Definatly let me know if the mounts are bad as I always like to know if certain vehicles have issues with certain parts. The Poly inserts are not so hard that they will hurt anythng or feel rough, so don't worry about that. You can get shifter and suspension bushing replacements, practically all bushings, which I have done on my car and it does not make anything harsh or vibrate or add too much load transfer as they still give under load. I think sticking with just the mount inserts is fine but I heard a lot of the four wheel guys like them for the decrease in body roll. Especially if you have anti-roll bars and get the bushings for those.
Let me know how things pan out. I would not mess with the O2 sensor as of yet..but maybe plan on replacing it at 100,000+.
The mounts and cleaning intake really seem to be the most likely leads givent what I found and all that you have told me.

Ok I'm gonna do sea foam tomorrow can you tell me the steps on how to do sea foam in my intake I don't want to put it in the oil cause I don't have the time to replace plugs right now so just a step by step for doing it in the intake thanks for all your help I will also check into the mounts and see

As far as the Sea Foam, it makes the oil dirty. I did not mean to add the Sea Foam to the oil. It is just that all that the removed deposits will end up collecting in the oil and it a good idea to change it after using it in the fuel system.

There are 2 ways to use Sea Foam. The first is to add it to your gas. The second way works better, but creates a lot of exhaust smoke for several minutes. To use Sea Foam directly into the intake is better as it is more concentrated as you pour it into the vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster.
First, disconnect the hose from the brake booster. The brake booster is the large circular thing that the brake master cylinder mounts to, which is mounted to the firewall on the drivers' side.
If you can get a funnel that will fit into the hose. Once you have the hose off, put the funnel in the end of the hose. Again, you will be disconnecting the hose at the brake booster and pouring it into the intake through the hose. Sometimes it might make it nearly stall at first. If you can get the help, have someone open the throttlr body by hand. Only open it enough to keep it running. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE HIGH WHEN USING THE SEA FOAM DIRECT POUR METHOD. ONLY HOLD THE THROTTLE OPEN ENOUGH TO KEEP IT RUNNING IF IT WANTS TO STALL. It usually does not. You will start to see tons and tons of smoke coming out of the exhasut. This will continue for several minutes, so don't worry. As soon as you finich pouring the Sea Foam in the intake, re-attach the hose to the brake booster. Let the truck idle until the smoke stop coming out of the exhaust and then a minute or two more. Let it sit for a couple minutes and take it for a ride and you may experience some more smoke and rough performance for a few miles. Eventually this will clear up and your really cleaning the intake tract as best you can without taking the intake apart.
You will definately get the oil dirty doing it this way.

To recap the direct intake method;

1.Disconnect hose at brake booster
2.Put funnel onto hose end
3.Pour Sea Foam into the funnel so it will go into intake manifold
4.Keep the engine running by hand if necassary, DO NOT REV ENGINE MORE THAN NECASSARY TO KEEP IT RUNNING. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE HIGH DURING CLEANING PROCEDURE
5.Allow smoke from exhaust to dissipate for two minutes after it stops smoking
6.Let it sit with engine off for a minute
7.Drive it normally until it clears out the rest of deposits
8.Check and/or change the engine oil as it will get dirty from removed deposits settling down or running down into the engine oil

This will really make a difference. You might experience some strange performance from the motor for the first 10 miles or so after using it as other deposits are removed when you rev the motor and drive it more.
Let me know how it turns out.

How long can you drive it before changing the oil after sea foam

I ran almost half a can threw intake and not that much smoke even came out it idles a little better may try it again and have the engine site longer to soak in

Change the oil when it looks dirty. It all depends on how dirty your engine is.
If it does not smoke much don't worry. It is getting sucked up by emissions stuff. Every motor is different, I just did not want you to freak out if it happened.

Did you get a chance to check the motor mounts? I found a lot of stuff about not only the motor just being a rough idler, but the motor mounts are notorious for wearing out fast.

The mounts look fine and do you think I should do some for sea foam and leave it sit in the motor for longer cause I think why there wasent that much smoke was cause I only left it in there for 5 minutes what ya think

I think it really works best when the motor is unning to disperse it. Then let it sit and soak. Meaning..don't just pour it in without motor unning and let it sit. Do it with motor running, then stop motor a few minutes and start back up. Another can in the tank cannot hurt either.
I think to get any better results, you would have to take the intake apart and clean it.
I think that with everything said and done, I would leave it be unless the rough idle really bothers you. Eventually you will have to take it aprt and clean it...but not now.

Just a thought that when you do the timing belt, which is suggested by Ford to be replaced at 120,000 miles.. alot for a belt, you could do the intake then since you will be in it for a day or so. I read the instructions for timing belt replacement on the 2001 4 cylinder 2.2L and it seems pretty simple to replace the belt. None of the intake or any thing besides the A/C and some tensioners come off.
I think between the code running and your friend and us your truck has been well looked over and it just is not a Mercedes when it comes to the idle. No big deal, but it was smart to make sure that it was not something that was a big deal. Spend $100 in maintenance and save $1000 in repair is a true statement that I hold to.
Keep up the maintenance and your going to get another 100,000 miles out of it.

Dr. C

My engine is a 4.0 v6 and thanks for all the help I did have the engine running when I did the sea foam I got a another question do you know what the symptoms are for a ball joint going bad. My friends ranger I think has a bad one ?

You can jack the truck up and put a jack stand unser it for safety.
Then grab the tire and pull and push on the bottom and you will fwwl if it has play or not.
Almost any truck with 60,000 miles or more on it needs lower ball joints. Four wheel drive trucks are especially tough on them.
Make sure to get some good ones that have a grease fitting. MOOG is probably the best brand for replacement suspension stuff.
The best on line parts stores are US Auto Parts and RockAuto.com. Rock Auto has closeouts where the warrantee is forgone but the part will be %50-%70 cheaper.
Lower ball joints just see a ton of stress from big tires. They will come apart too, so don't worry about sympatamativ behaviour. Just replace them every 70,ooo miles. You can just thread the castle nut on a few turns and beat the old joint out. Go to an advance auto and borrow an install kit or use same size socket to beat the new one in. Its not too hard a job.

He does have grease fittings on his so I'm gonna grease them if they have a grease fitting does that mean they were replaced at one time cause I don't think the stock ones come with a fitting right ?

No, they come with grease fittings. Just wanted to make sure you did not get Chinese ones without them. Most imports do not have fittings and are not serviceable. Is that ridiculous or what?

I bought my ranger with a super lift already on it and I was wondering when people get lifts done do they replace all the tie rods and ball joints and stuff since the ride heigth is different does lift kits come with that stuff

I am not too familair with lifts. But the angles that the components will see are greater and therefore harder on components. I am sure if you look around you can find upgrades. SummitRacing.com is a good place to check with good prices.
The best place would be to join a Ford Ranger enthusiast forum. They are all over the web and are full of aftermarket links, reviews and usually a market place for new and used parts that are hard to find.