Engine revs

I have the same issue, if you unplug the MAP sensor (labeled boost sensor) it should run and idle smoothly, at least it does for me. I notice what happens is the map sensor would cause the fuel trims to spike really high, then the ecu would overcorrect the opposite direction causing a sudden stumble in the RPM's at idle. I have no idea if this is the same issue as you, but if you unplug the map sensor connector and then see if it stops, maybe that could point you in the right direction. Granted I have that issue and am having a really tough time figuring out why its doing that in the first place. All I know is my car has the same idle drop symptoms and seems to work fine when I disconnect the map. If that doesn't fix it then you can mark that off the list of things to check I guess.

I have a Ford Probe and before I can make any adjustments to it I would like diagnosis of it. For one the car when one presses on the accelerater it seems to struggle to gain speed. Im currently thinkin it might b the transmission. I regularly set the idle speed back to its normal rpm and it still does it. Any one can help it woul b greatly appreciated.

I'm having a similar problem with my 95 SE. I'm also having an issue with it stalling shortly after I start it. It sometimes will go, and then stall after I'm driving. Repeatedly. Just recently started happening. I have roughlt 127 K Miles on mine, I believe a 2.0 engine. If anybody has any ideas what it is, please help us!

I also have had simular problems with mine. Except with mine the car did NOT like to accelerate. I would turn onto a highway and press the gas pedal and the car would jerk and the rpms would almost max out. As it turned out it was in fact the transmission. It was skipping 2nd and 4th gear (my car is an AT) the repair shop had said that there suspected bolts broken inside the tranny and I needed a rebuild. We had done that and the car was fine for about a year until this time the car would decide that it just didnt want to drive. My step-father was taking it in to have the tranny looked at again and had to sit through a green light because the car would not drive. This time they said I needed a new tourqe convertor and since then the car has been good besides the new catalytic converter and a remaining issue with the check engine light telling me that the cat is causing prblems again. I had a hole in the cat before and had to get a new one, but now we are thinking that it is an O2 sensor or possibly the 2nd cat by the manifold. Which I did not know that this car had two cat convertors. And my probe does only have 66,000 miles on it. Way too many problems for that low of miles. One thing that I have learned from researching the cat it is that if they are clogged they can affect performance. This is just a guess, but it might be worth, and cheaper to start, looking into. And actually my car has stalled on me once while driving and I still have not figured out that one, especially since my idle is fine. But I do hope that by giving you the history of my car and symptoms help you in any way. I know its a lot but maybe there was something in here of use to you guys. Thanks!

Engine Mechanical problem
1993 Ford Probe 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 150k miles

Ever since I changed my water pump my car will not run right. I had messed up the timing of the engine while doing it so I took everything back apart and fixed the timing of the engine. I have even taken it back apart to re-check it and it is exact. After fixing the timing the first time my car ran very badly for a week. Loss of power, bad gas mileage, very sluggish. I thought it was timing still so that is when I re-checked it. I noticed a motor mount ground that I over-looked. I put it where it needs to be and the car started again. It will not go past 200 rpms. I have a new distributor and I was trying to set the ignition timing but first it says to make sure my idle speed is alright. Here are the things I have done.
-Spark test (jumps gap)
-Fuel pressure test
-Compression test
-Timing of engine (it is exact)
-New spark plugs
-New fuel filter
-New ignition coil
-New plug wires
-New air filter
-Cleaned MAF sensor
-Cleaned IAC valve

I have removed a SPOUT connector to set the ignition timing and idle speed. I have it at TDC on the compression stroke with the rotor on #1. I tried to adjust the idle speed with the screw and it didn't affect it I also opened the throttle manually with my hand and the engine doesn't even surge. Even I press on the gas it barely goes up not even 50 rpms. I can feel exhaust out the back as it is sputtering at 200 rpms or less. I have a chilton manual that I am going by to set the ignition timing. I have the disty in the relative area where it needs to be but I have no completed the ignition timing since the idle is messed up. I am stumped to what is the cause of this. Something is holding it back somehow. My car ran fine until I changed the water pump but I couldn't drive like that obviously. Somewhere in between something has messed up and I can't figure it out. When the car ran bad for a week then quit, I figured the distributor went out on me which is why I have a new one. Also, my car does not give any codes anymore. The only one it did before the codes were cleared was CID failure. This is why I also replaced the disty. The ignition module and crank and cam sesnors are built into the distributor.

For TDC, I lined up the marks on the cams like I did when I was doing the timing of the engine and I could also feel pressure in that spark plug hole. It is a 2.0L. For the compression test I was getting about 190psi in all 4. No major differences.

Yep, the timing of the engine was exactly like that, I made 100% sure the marks were perfect. I've not yet hooked up a timing light because my book says to adjust the idle speed first. I haven't bought one yet because I didn't want to waste money since I couldn't get past the idle speed.

Engine Performance problem
1997 Ford Probe 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 156000 miles

When I'm at a stoplight my car will start revving on its own, when in gear and the clutch is let up car will then stall. Occasionally the car will not start unless I hold the accelerator to the floor. I have replaced the cap & rotor, plugs & wires, also the intake and connected the disconnected vacuum lines problem still occurs?

The ignition module for my car is built inside of the disty. Which is why I got a new one. The modules are likely to burn out on these probes. I did try and move the disty back and forth. I'd say there is just one sweet spot with a centimeter I could move it back and forth in between to where it will start. Any movements past that sweet spot the car won't even start. When I have the disty in that spot, I have to pump the gas while cranking to even get the engine going. Sometimes it won't idle on it's own. The RPMS will go too low and it will die if I don't have my foot on the gas.

My check engine light has been on, I had it checked, I got a code for the cat, an egr valve, and a temp sensor disconnect. I haven't gotten the fuel pressure checked, I did however order a new fuel pump which I have plans to replace along with the fuel filter sometime this week. Do you think that could be my problem?

I have aligned everything to TDC with the marks on the sprockets. I have taken pictures of the sprockets with the marks from both sides and a picture of the cam lobes. This is the way I had set it up before and the disty rotor still is on #1. My firing order is 1 3 4 2. Please take a look from the links. The image uploader on this site wasn't working for me.