1989 Ford Mustang 1989 Mustang 2.3L Ford Factory Swap out t

89MUSTANGFIVEOH

MEMBER
1989 FORD MUSTANG

Engine Mechanical problem
1989 Ford Mustang V8 Two Wheel Drive Manual 89000k miles

So, I just bought this car that had a 2.3L motor swapped out before, and a 5.0L put in. Not a hack job, done by Ford, and confirmed it was proper by Ford, I have some sticker on the rad. Anyways.

The car will start, crank over twice, and fire until its hot. Once it gets warm she dies, and takes for ever to start unless you let it cool off. The alternator isnt in top condition, but even with a battery charger hooked up it will still die, so it cant be the injectors losing power and getting it again. It is almost like it runs out of fuel, and than sparks and shoots up the rpms again, but with the fuel pressure gauge on her she runs 35-45psi strong. Im puzzled. Any helpers?

I Have tried:

a new MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor)
a newTPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor)
a newComplete Distributor and Moduel
Switching out coils same thing
changing Intake manifold and plenum gasket

2 Replies

WRENCHTECH

MECHANIC
20,761 POSTS

Since that modification is against Federal law, I would be very shocked that a Ford dealer would even consider doing that.

It's not something that would work out very well on a 6 cylinder chassis.

Your just going to have to go back to basics in testing.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.