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Feels like brakes are being applied

Tiny
ESLATER2224
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET COBALT
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
My car seems to drive fine for around 10 miles but then slowly feels like the brakes are engaged when they are not. First barely noticeable and then increasingly until the gas and revs have to be way up just to move. The only rims that get hot are the front ones and seem to be more on the driver's side but definitely both. At first, I thought it was just the driver's side and even saw a little smoke come from that wheel just trying to make it home. I first replaced the brake pads and driver's side caliper. Nothing. Then the hose, nothing. Then the slide pins even though the caliper came with new pins, nothing, I just replaced the wheel hub and bearings, same problem. Right before I did the hub, I found out that if waited utill everything to cool down the car would seem to go back to feeling normal but I'm not sure it's because of temperature or if brakes simply take a long time to retract/decompress. Before I had taken everything apart to investigate before trying to drive again in fear of damage. I've bled the lines many times, compressed the pistons and it seems fine. The rotor has a small amount of blue color to it but I'm not sure if it's from friction because it's so slight. The rotors are by no means new but seem to be in good condition. I've put the front end on stands and put it in drive to look for any symptoms and the only thing I found was the passenger side wasn't spinning freely. It would start and stop in about 1/4 turns of rotation. Overall, not spinning more than half of the time on average. Don't know what that means but it seems like something. I checked for ABS codes and didn't find any, but it was a POS obd from O'reilly. There is a sound coming from what I think is the transmission, but I know little to nothing about transmissions and don't even know if the sound is normal or not. It's kind of like a clicking sound. Okay, bad-no idea. Related, not related-don't know. Now I'm thinking I need to look at ABS, master cylinder, or transmission but these are just guesses. I'm close to giving up but I did sink a fair amount of money into repairs recently (not including the repairs above). Fortunately, I live close enough to work that it hasn't been a real issue for getting there and back but for how long? Any help would be awesome. Please.
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Saturday, July 2nd, 2022 AT 8:35 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,708 POSTS
Hi,

The interesting thing about brake drag is it will get worse the hotter they get. Brake fluid will expand in the caliper and basically continue to apply more and more.

You have done a lot, but I do have questions. First, when you installed the brake pads, did they move in and out easily? Also, has anything been done with the brake light switch under the dash?

Take a look through this link and see if you could be missing anything.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Also, when you have the caliper removed, inspect the caliper mount where the pads are placed. See pic below. So many times, the mount will rust under the hardware causing the brake pads to stick and not move. The result can be brake drag.

I circled the places to check in the pic. I always take a small file and clean all rust and debris from those locations before installing the hardware.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Image (Click to make bigger)
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Sunday, July 3rd, 2022 AT 12:10 AM
Tiny
ESLATER2224
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  • 2 POSTS
The problem began before I replaced the pads, but they did move easily. There wasn't any debris and the clips I put in were brand new. I am almost certain changing the pads had nothing to do with it. As far as a switch under the dash, I know nothing about it. I'm not even sure what you're talking about. The previous owner might have done something but there's no way for me to know for sure. I'm actually in the car right now and another thing that I didn't mention is that the brake pedal is much stiffer when the drag is greater. It seems obvious but it's what makes me think it has to be in the brakes and not a bearing or transaxle problem.
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Sunday, July 3rd, 2022 AT 6:36 PM
Tiny
ESLATER2224
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  • 2 POSTS
Also, the brake lights are working like normal. I'm curious why the brake light switch could have something to do with it? The cruise control is working properly. Could E brake have something to do with it? Or the master cylinder, ABS module and/or pump. Can I rule out any of these? What about the drums in the back? I had the drums and shoes replaced several months ago.
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Tuesday, July 5th, 2022 AT 9:13 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,708 POSTS
Hi,

I asked about the brake lights because I've seen the switch come apart in such a way that it applied a slight amount of pressure on the pedal causing similar issues.

What we need to do is determine if one of the brakes is actually sticking. Things that can cause this to happen are usually related to the brake caliper piston, caliper slides, and even the rubber brake hose and cause this to happen.

If possible, lift one side at a time, have a helper apply the brakes, and then see if they release properly.

Also, I don't feel the master cylinder is causing this. Additionally, you mentioned the one side wasn't turning as easily when you had it up on jacks. That would be normal if you were trying it in gear. However, not if you were turning it by hand.

Do this again and see if they release when the pedal is released. If it doesn't, open the breeder on the caliper and see if it turns then. If it does, replace the rubber brake hose.

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, July 5th, 2022 AT 8:33 PM
Tiny
ESLATER2224
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The reason for me to think it is a master cylinder issue is because I've already replaced the caliper, slides, and hose and still getting the same issue with absolute zero change. Also, because it is affecting both front wheels. Another reason is that in the Haynes manual master cylinder is number 1 in troubleshooting. I will try to get more info by trying the methods you suggested. As for the pass side wheel it was in gear.
Correct me if I am wrong but would a switch problem affect the back (drum) brakes as well? And we're not talking about a small drag. It's almost been completely locked up trying to make it home. Gradual drag but definitely not light drag. And doesn't the problem have to be somewhere before the new parts that I put in? The only thing left is ABS system, master cylinder, and the collapse of the actual brake lines themselves, right? The cruise control working means the wheel speed sensors are working. Parking brake only affects the rear wheels. I'm definitely not an expert and I am probably wrong. I'm just letting you know my line of thought.
Hopefully I can get some useful info after work today.
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Wednesday, July 6th, 2022 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,708 POSTS
Hi,

If you suspect it is the master cylinder, loosen the steel brake line at the master cylinder and see if the pressure releases from the wheel.

Try that and let me know if the brake releases. If it does, then open a bleeder at the caliper to see if that releases it.

As far as the switch is concerned, the rear brakes would also be affected, but unless the pedal is held down a good bit, you wouldn't notice it as much. Drum brakes commonly are out of adjustment and require pumping the brakes a couple of times for them to fully engage.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, July 6th, 2022 AT 8:47 PM
Tiny
ESLATER2224
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I forgot to mention the wheel hub and bearings were also replaced.
New Info!
While driving today I heard a sound coming from the front of the car. To me it sounded like a hybrid of a click and thud but slightly muffled kind of sound. You can hear it when what I would call brakes 1/2 way locked up. Or when you start to notice the RPM's going way up and the mpg going way down with medium to real heavy drag. The sound's frequency depends on the speed 0f the car. At 25-30 MPH you can hear the sound roughly 2 times every second, maybe a little less. Tomorrow I'm going to do another inspection of the brakes and try a couple things. I'm also checking the transmission fluid because it's a sealed system and I have no idea what's inside.
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Thursday, July 7th, 2022 AT 9:55 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

When you take things apart to recheck, make sure to check the new hub bearing. Make sure the axle nut is tight and turn the wheel with the caliper removed to see if there is clicking.

When you do this test, if the caliper or pads are removed, do not hit the brake pedal.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, July 7th, 2022 AT 1:17 PM
Tiny
ESLATER2224
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Okay. So, I confirmed the pads are getting stuck and opening the bleeder screw(s) does relieve the pressure and allows the rotors to spin. I also tried rotating the tires just to try something, anything really. The click that was coming from the front driver side now seems to be coming from the rear passenger side so I'm almost certain it's not related and is from the tire itself. I still have to confirm that, but I've just been really busy, it's hot outside, and I don't have a garage. I'll see what I can find out about that later today, but it doesn't seem very Important at the moment. I picked up the 30mm required for the axle nut and got as close to spec required torque as possible without a torque wrench. In other words, tight but not like breaker bar tight. The new wheel hub looked and sounded great when I had it up in the air and spinning relatively fast. I'm considering replacing the rotors but I'm not trying to put more money into it if I end up having to take it to the shop. I have an appointment on Friday, so I've given myself 5 days to figure this out.
After I rotated the tire "re-installed" the axle nut, disassembled/re-assembled both front brakes and rechecked every bolt, screw, and fluid and the car did well for a little bit. The tire rotation seemed to help the small amount of pull to the left in the steering. I burned up a 1/8 of a tank and thought for a second the brakes weren't going to lock up but just before parking the car they didn't do the exact same thing. I went double check the pad, rotor, bleeder screw relation and went to drive it again to be certain. I burned another 1/4 tank well into the night and they didn't stick. Fluid was leaking from one of the screws that didn't get tightened all the way (probably out of frustration). Eventually the cars sensor told me that it needed brake fluid. I feel pretty dumb about that, but I picked up some new screws and fluid because it's cheap and I'm going to give it another go. What's interesting is they didn't lock up, the rotors weren't hot, the car shifted fine, brakes work really well (smooth and stop on a dime well), I was able to drive for hours and a lot of miles without a problem at all as long as the fluid had somewhere to go. Even if it was all over my tire and the road. (My bad)
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Sunday, July 10th, 2022 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,708 POSTS
Hi,

If it releases when you open the bleeder at the caliper, the most common cause is a faulty rubber brake hose. You indicated they were replaced.

Since they release when you had the leak, we know it isn't anything to do with the brake caliper or slide pins. Where was the loose bolt that allowed fluid to leak? Was it at the caliper or before?

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, July 10th, 2022 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
ESLATER2224
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It was the bleeder screw. The only reason I got a replacement bleeder screw was I chewed it up a little bit unscrewing it. There was nothing wrong with it. I just didn't tighten it enough the last time allowing it to leak fluid. I'm just wondering what can cause the symptoms that I'm getting that hasn't been eliminated.
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Monday, July 11th, 2022 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,708 POSTS
Hi,

I feel the rubber brake hose is bad. Did you replace the one on this side?

Joe
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Monday, July 11th, 2022 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
ESLATER2224
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I purchased another brake hose for the passenger side because they're only $15.00. Even though the other hose didn't help. I'm going to put it in after work today. I only have two days left to figure this out before I'm bringing it to the shop, and I'll try anything to not have to do that.
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Wednesday, July 13th, 2022 AT 11:00 AM

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