Excessive oil use and gas pedal issue?

The oil consumption and gas pedal sounds don't seem like they are related. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so I can hear the noise? That way I can tell for sure what's going on. You can upload it here with your response. It seems like a vacuum leak to me and if so, please follow this guide when the engine is cold only. Do not spray the exhaust manifold:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

The fluid is flammable so be careful. As far as the oil consumption I would check replace the PCV valve. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Thanks for the video. I have never heard that noise before, I will send this out to my other techs to see what they say. Please stand by.

You say it has been using oil and now it seems slow to accelerate and you are hearing a hissing sound. I would check for an exhaust restriction. Looking at the way the exhaust is built and how the converters are laid out I suspect that the second section of the converter or the center muffler is partly plugged up from the oil use. That car uses a 2-stage converter with the O2 sensor between them and you can have the rear of the unit partly plugged or even gone and it won't set a code, but it can build pressure. I would go for a drive and remember how it acts. Now let it cool off and remove the rear O2 sensor. Now try driving it, if it's better you are on the right track.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter
Generally, I do a back pressure test at the O2 sensors by using a simple old style fuel pressure gauge and a spark plug to hose adapter. You screw the adapter into the O2 bung and start the engine, now put the pressure gauge onto the adapter, ideally you will see zero pressure or better a slight vacuum, in practice you may see a very low pressure (under that barely moves the needle. If, however, you see more than about 2 psi at idle you have a restricted exhaust. If you step on the gas while measuring the pressure and it goes above 3-4 psi at high rpm, you still have a restriction, just not as bad.

Interesting case, that noise has a metallic sound to it, like a bearing. Can you open the hood and rev the engine in Park and still hear the noise? Definitely sounds like a loaded bearing noise to me. If you can hear it with the hood open, and just raise the rpm in Park, I would remove the belt and see if the noise disappears, without the AC on its either the Alternator bearing or the Water Pump. If the noise is still present with the belt removed, then I would suspect a camshaft bearing.
I had a bad cam bearing once that sounded exactly like that, almost a belt noise, but it was in fact a camshaft bearing.
The belt on this vehicle has really tight tolerances. Never seen a belt with so many measurements involved.
As for the oil issue, if there are no apparent oil leaks, there is a very long Technical Service Bulletin on excessive oil consumption. If it's more than 1qt in 1,000 miles, it is considered very excessive and there is a very extensive cleaning process, or engine replacement. It looks to be an in cylinder issue with the oil consumption, Piston rings, Valve Stem seals. The TSB (pgs 10, 11) is a very long TSB about each step taken depending on the test results out of a 3-step testing process. But it looks to be a dealership issue that the manufacturer is aware of for such a long TSB on oil issues. The bearing noise and oil issue might be related in this case, The last pg below is the Oil specs.

I had something similar many years ago. Turned out to be a collapsed engine mount on the passenger side. A pulley was rubbing on the plastic splash shield attached to the frame rail, then when accelerating under load, the engine rocked and that pulley was rubbing on the metal strap that held the metal fuel line to the frame rail, I found it when I saw the shiny groove worn into that strap.

I'm betting on a chunk of honeycomb partially clogging the exhaust system. My CJ-5 #4 developed a hiss when you goosed it. Power didn't suffer much, or I investigated it before I really noticed. When I separated the cat from the muffler, I'm guessing the chunk wedged in the beginning of my muffler left me about half of an open hole. The "vanes" were sort of oriented on about a 45 degree angle, so some exhaust was probably going through the chunk. When I have seen other cats coming apart, there has always been a bigtime loss in power and basically the vehicle was undrivable.

---CJ MEDEVAC

Please test it before you replace it. As you say the car is using oil and that is a bad thing and could poison the replacement part. Repairing or at least determining why it is using the oil is the first thing to do. Then replace the converter if it is required. Take a look at the TSB on oil usage and possibly talk to a dealer about it. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10189272-0001.pdf
You may also want to look at
https://www.legalscoops.com/class-action-lawsuit-over-hyundai-and-kia-oil-consumption/
for some more reading on that engine and efforts to help owners of them.

With the issues you have maybe they will just hand you the keys to a new one as the repair.
Good luck and please let us know what happens. Thank you.

The confusion is due to the government. There are two versions of your car's exhaust, one that meets the California emissions and the other that meets the federal standards. Because of
that they name the converters based on location on the vehicle so if you have the ones like many new cars they are mounted right on the engine and are "front" converters, then ones under the vehicle can be center, or rear depending on the mounting location. In your case there is only the one, but they still like to make it confusing.
So, one step you need to take is look at the emissions standards your car was built to, there is a sticker on the radiator support or close by and if it says California anywhere on that sticker it's a Cali car. Now that is important in a couple states. NY and CA both have laws that say that if it's a CA standards car you have to replace the part with one that is CARB legal. Other states you can do what you wish at the moment.
You will also see ones saying that you cut as required, that is because the OE is a welded assembly so you have to take the new part and cut the old one off so the new one can be installed. So, all of the ones you show should work as long as you are not under one of those states.
Attached is an image of the exhaust for your car so you can see the pieces.

You're welcome.