Codes P2191, P0301 and P0300

Hello, can you post your picture of scan data again, it did not come through. Also, we do not have this vehicle listed here in the U.S. Can you tell me a little about it? What engine size, is it a hybrid? It's very strange you're getting a very lean code when your fuel trims are so negative. I believe -25% is maxed out for Hyundia. I'm trying to find a US version of this vehicle. Sometimes it's sold here under a different name or even by a different company. But with -25% fuel trim, I'd really like to see what the oxygen sensor data is. Post the scan tool data in sections if needed.
Does this have a 1.6-liter engine? It almost looks like a Hyundai Accent, is it a Sedan, Hatchback, Coupe?
One last question, does your scan tool have a fuel pressure reading? I just want to know if this is a GDI fuel system (High Pressure fuel system 800-3,000 PSI system).
The 2013 Hyundai Accent is a GDI fuel system 290-2,175 PSI fuel pressure. If that's the case and yours is the same, then you may have fuel pressure that is either too high or you might have a leaking high pressure direct injection Fuel Injector.

Okay, so I don't know what vehicle model you have unfortunately, but I do notice some things here. On your freeze frame data for the P2191 code. I want you to check something in the morning before you start the car. Hook up your scan tool and just turn the key On, don't start the engine and go to live data. So, the car has been sitting overnight, the Coolant Temperature sensor and the Intake Temperature Sensor should both read the same temperature. So, check that to begin with. They look a little off, but it might be because the car was so warm already.

Since I don't know exactly what kind of setup this vehicle has I'm just going to go with what doesn't look correct to me. What I notice is the live data is the last post, the one in green. That Oxygen sensor voltage looks to be stuck at 0.6v. Now I don't know if this vehicle has a wide band or narrow band oxygen sensor. But if it is a regular narrow band oxygen sensor and it is stuck at 0.6volts. That is a rich running condition and that can cause the Fuel trims to go Negative. The long-term fuel trim is a learned value by the engine computer. So, it's the more important one. The short-term fuel trim is fuel correction that is happening constantly (so it's happening while you drive due to various conditions, outside air temperature, barometric pressure, etc.) I know the front oxygen sensor is not setting any codes, so it's difficult to be perfectly sure, this may be a combination of the different fuel you have in your country too. But if you switched over to CNG and there was no change in the #1 Oxygen sensor voltage, I would monitor that the most, and if it stays at 0.6volts all the time, that is most likely the issue.
But do the check on the two temperature sensors I mentioned above also. They should be reading the same temperature in the morning before the car has been run. Hope this helps you some. I am also posting a "real fix" due to this code on a 2013 Hyundai Accent, because that is the closest vehicle we have here. I'm sorry I couldn't give you an exact answer.

So, I've been going over your freeze frame data, and there's some things I want you to try. I was able to locate wiring diagrams for this vehicle from a different source. I think there is a fuel related issue happening under a heavy load, such as going up hills or putting the pedal to the floor to get on the highway, etc. Looking at the freeze frame data, it says you were only at 18% throttle position, but 70% engine load. And only 19mph. This is when the code is set. I want you to monitor both oxygen sensors, the front and rear ones. Erase the codes you have now and start over, Monitor the oxygen sensors while getting the engine under a load, i.E, going up a hill, etc. See if the oxygen sensors voltages change at all. Record the live data if possible. I want you to Graph both Oxygen sensors, the MAP sensor, and only the STFT, we know what the LTFT is already. Record the data.

Do you still have any codes? Everything actually looks normal to me, the 99% reading is because your car doesn't have that sensor (It might be a Bank 2 sensor 2). The 99% is a substitute value. Because there is nothing there for the scan tool to read. I'm assuming the two running graph videos are Bank 1 Sensor 1 and 2 (Front and rear)? The data is a little blurry but the only thing that doesn't look good is if the two videos are for the front and rear oxygen sensors, the rear one shouldn't be fluctuating like the front one is. It should stay steady. That would indicate bad Catalytic Converter efficiency.
Is this data running on gasoline or CNG? And how do you switch between the two, do you just open a valve on a CNG tank?