Battery drain

Have you checked the battery terminals themselves? Bad, dirty, or loose connections can wreak havoc on a car, causing all kinds of weirdness to happen. Here is our guide on that: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

If that does not help you out, then the next thing to do would be to look for something that is draining the battery. Here is our official guide on that: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

And here is my personal process that I use: All you need is a multimeter ($15.00 to $20.00 or so at AutoZone). Disconnect one of the battery cables from the battery. Touch the disconnected cable to the other cable so any residual energy in the system is grounded out. Take your multi-meter, turn it on, and set to 20V DC. Take one lead and connect it to the newly disconnected battery cable, and connect the other lead to the battery post that the disconnected cable came from. You should see some sort of reading. Now start unplugging fuses, one at a time, until you see a significant drop in the meters reading. You have now identified the circuit. If the car has any aftermarket electronics (like a radio, for example), then start with checking that.

This is the multimeter that I have: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-multimeter-digital-with-8-functions-and-20/p-03482141000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Let us know which fuse it was and I will personally look up what is on that circuit.

If there is a drain on that circuit, it likely indicates that you need an alternator. But go ahead and inspect all of the wiring coming from and going to the alternator. Look for any signs of fraying. Also make sure that they are tightly connected.

When you were checking the individual circuits (pulling fuses), did you check all of them? Or did you stop at the generator circuit? I am thinking that maybe there is something else causing the drain. If you have any aftermarket electronics in the car, then start with those circuits.

Also, did you check the "generator" fuse itself? If that fuse is blown, then your alternator will not charge the battery or run the electrical system at all. So your battery, which was low on power as it was, would quickly die after having been jumped and not charged any more than that.

Just doublechecking, you did check the fuses in both fuse boxes, right? I have to ask because some people do not know that their cars have two or more fuse boxes. You should see changes in other circuits too, such as the radio, for example.

Sounds like your ignition switch is shorted. Likely the cause of your drain as well. I will get you some specifics on how to get to the electrical part of the switch tomorrow and we will figure out a test for it.

Sorry, I really meant to. In the process of buying a house and it is consuming all of my extra time. Anyways, the best way I can figure to test it would be to do the drain test that you ran earlier, but this time unplug the electrical connector to the ignition switch and observe the voltage drop. Attached is Mitsubishi's instructions on how to remove and replace the switch. The directions are less than impressive, in my opinion. But that is what we get sometimes.

I would remove that aftermarket remote start unit I have had nothing but problems with those. Also, does the drain stop when you remove the connector for the ignition switch?