Code P1409

Tiny
SJONAS
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 133,000 MILES
I have a trouble code of p1409. I have replaced my EGR vacuum regulator solenoid and cleared the code but the code came back in 20 minutes. I have checked the voltage of both wires going into the connector for the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid and both test at 12 volts. I tested the voltage of the opposite end of the connector (the terminals within the plug that plugs into the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid) and only one terminal was reading 12 volts. The other was reading 0. Does this mean that the connector is bad?
Sunday, September 13th, 2020 AT 3:02 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,644 POSTS
Hi,

When you say the voltage is and isn't there. Is it on the same wire?

As far as the code, take a look at this very brief test. Let me know if you have already checked things this way.

_________________________________

HE110 DTC P1409: Check EGR vacuum regulator solenoid resistance

- Disconnect EGR vacuum regulator solenoid.

- Measure EGR vacuum regulator solenoid resistance.
Is solenoid resistance between 26 and 40 ohms?
Yes

- GO to HE111.

No

- REPLACE EGR vacuum regulator solenoid.

Let me know.
Joe
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Sunday, September 13th, 2020 AT 5:52 PM
Tiny
SJONAS
  • MEMBER
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Hello, I've checked the resistance of the solenoid and it measures 36. I ohmed the old part that was replaced and that one also ohms at 36. So that is not the cause of my problem. I've also replaced the DPFE sensor and to no avail, the light came back once I cleared it. I would like to mention, I do have a buzzing sound coming from my engine bay when the key is in the on position but the car is not started. I figured out that if I move around the cables that lead into the PCM, the buzzing stops and sometimes the check engine light will go away (but comes back at a later time).

This leads me to believe:

1.) There is an electrical issue in the wiring harness where a wire is arcing (which might be making the buzzing sound I am noticing) and thus making it seems like there is an issue in the EGR Solenoid Circuit when there really isn't an issue with the emission components.

2.) By moving the wiring, I am shorting out the computer and thus clearing the code until the computer once again detects an issue.

Yesterday I took out much of the right side of the engine bay in an attempt in trying to find out where the buzzing is coming from and have landed on a possible cause. There is a plug that goes into the top of the transmission and when removed and the battery is hooked back up, there is no more buzzing. I was not able to start the vehicle or check to see if the check engine light was still on since the mass airflow sensor and tubing from the engine air filter to the engine was removed to get to this part.

Please let me know what you think, I know this is a lot of text but I would really appreciate a response. I have to go for emissions soon and I'm not really trying to buy a new car or get this one fixed for some outrageous amount. I'm just a college kid trying to learn a bit and save some money while doing so!
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 8:48 AM
Tiny
SJONAS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
In response to your concern about voltage, I stuck the probe of the multi-meter into female end of the EGR solenoid connector and the left side reads 12 volts. The right side reads nothing. I inserted the probe into the back of the connector and the left wire measures 12 volts and the right one measures 12 volts when plugged in but measures 0 when it is unplugged. Weird, but I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 8:54 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,644 POSTS
Hi,

It could be a bad connection. Take a look at the two pics below and tell me if you see the sensor you are referring to.

Joe
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:20 PM

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