ECM testing or replace

ADAM MACK

MEMBER
1994 DODGE DAKOTA
5.2L
V8
2WD
AUTOMATIC
190,000 MILES

After total loss of vehicle (my dads' truck), I had no choice but to repair the truck I had bought as a donor to rebuild to new condition my dads' truck. It needed transmission, which I bought a re-manufactured one. Installed, filled with ATF+4, adjusted TV cable. It hits all gears and torque converter lock up. After it has run, somewhat poorly, for twenty minutes or so, it stalls. Try to restart no power to coil. Usually leave it sit over night, it busts right off, still runs somewhat poorly, but another twenty minutes and I have to restart next day. Found that if I wiggle harness near EMC that it will at least fire once or twice, but until the next day, will not run. Has left me stranded two times. Every indication is that the ECM is bad. I believe that, especially, after I removed the cover on it and found clear silicone has replaced the jell that came factory in a couple places. However, I have tried everything to get the harness connector out of the terminal for the ECM. The bolt turns but never releases the connector to replace the ECM. I have gently tried to pry against connector while turning bolt, but that thing refuses to release the harness connector. While I have not cracked or damaged the connector itself, I have broken a plastic receptacle for the cover for the harness connector. Any advice for me short of junkyard connector and cutting all those wires?

6 Replies

ASEMASTER6371

MECHANIC
52,797 POSTS

Good afternoon.

Can you upload a picture of what you see?

Roy

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Tuesday, July 17th, 2018 AT 2:07 PM

ADAM MACK

MEMBER
7 POSTS

I can in the morning. Will have to take lap top out there to do it. Someone stole the memory card out of my camera.

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Tuesday, July 17th, 2018 AT 7:31 PM

ASEMASTER6371

MECHANIC
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Okay, sounds like a plan.

Roy

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Wednesday, July 18th, 2018 AT 3:16 AM

ADAM MACK

MEMBER
7 POSTS

Roy, I appreciate your reply. This site is way better than any I have posted my issue with this truck and get any kind of reply, short of smart aleck replies. I make one comment on my experience with this truck about what transmission came factory in it/the re-manufactured I installed 46re and works. I do not want to argue on line. Pfft! That is stupid. They are not here to see with their own eyes, so pretty much accept that what I say is my experience and it works. Neither here nor there. Pictures are below. Two shows the non factory silicone pointed out and better angle of same. The fourth is where I would need to cut a hole with a hole saw to get at whatever that bolt for the connector screws into. Your advice is greatly appreciated and I thank you in advance. If anyone else has advice/opinion as to how the heck I can get this bolt out of the connector so I do not have to snip/splice all those sixty plus wires, feel free to add your two cents worth. Heck add your $20.00 worth. LOL
Adam

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Wednesday, July 18th, 2018 AT 12:01 PM

STEVE W.

MECHANIC
13,494 POSTS

The bolt is turning but not unscrewing correct? There are a couple options. The first is to lock onto it with a pair of vice grips and pull up hard while you try to unscrew it. The threads go into a simple flat nut and it sounds like the threads may be damaged on the bolt. Pulling it "out" while turning may let it back out. A variation on that would be to use something like a trim tool or screwdriver under the bolt head while rotating it with a socket in the attempt to do the same thing.

If touching the connector seems to complete the circuit the issue may be just a couple of pins in the connector. Many times those can be removed out of the connector shell and either reformed or replaced.

There is also the "nuclear option" If you cannot get the bolt out you could get a used PCM and cut through the housing to get to the "back" of the bolt to get it out. It will damage the unit you have but it sounds like the one you have already has issues.