Dual Climate Control Malfunction?

Tiny
CAREY BLINDENHOFER
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 FORD FOCUS
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 73,000 MILES
Hello.

The driver's side recently started getting stuck blowing only hot air, even while passenger's side blew ice cold.

I assumed it was the driver's side temperature blend door actuator, so I removed it, and replaced it with a new one, but under preliminary tests, the problem continued.

(I did test the old actuator independently, and it appeared to function properly, turning both ways while changing the temperature dial.)

It manifests intermittently, sometimes auto-correcting on startup, or can be tricked into going back into cold mode by turning both temperature dials separately, also making a singular popping sound, like a something popping into place, but if the temperature is changed from cold to warm, it works, but will not go back to cold.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
Monday, August 7th, 2023 AT 3:27 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,709 POSTS
Hi,

The popping noise you hear, did it do that with the original actuator? I ask because if it didn't, you may not have the actuator seated properly.

On the other hand, if it did make the noise with the original one, then it sounds like the air temperature door itself is sticking. By chance, when you had the actuator removed, did you check to see if the mechanism under the dash moved easily?

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, August 7th, 2023 AT 9:20 PM
Tiny
CAREY BLINDENHOFER
  • MEMBER
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Good morning, Joe.

Thank you for your response.

Yes. The popping noise was occurring before removal of the old actuator, and occurred while it was installed. I had definitely made sure the actuator gear was seated into the female receptacle. The binding of the entire mechanism is exactly what I was worried about. I even heard it while I was putting the fuse back into panel beneath the passenger footwell (like it was coming from that side, as well), when the system reset itself.

I have subsequently removed the new actuator, and to answer your question about the mechanism under the dash. No. The female receptacle for the actuator gear will not move whatsoever, and I took note that it appears to not even be seated deep enough (or far enough out, I'm not sure which) in the air distribution box. The female receptacle has two semi-circular wedges at the top and the bottom that fit perfectly into the hole it was designed for obviously, and just seems to be resting just deep enough in the formed hole so as to not allow any rotation. I attempted to push it in a little, but there's no give, and found that I could pull it outwards enough so that the wedges sat on the outside (basically on the cabin interior side of the box). I wasn't sure which was proper, so I sought advice here before doing anything else.

Are the guide wedges of the female gear receptacle supposed to be on the outside edge of that whole before installing the actuator?

(PS: I can attempt to get a picture if necessary.)

Thanks in advance.
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Tuesday, August 8th, 2023 AT 6:03 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,709 POSTS
Hi,

A pic may help. LOL If you get a chance, I would like to see it.

As far as your question, the connector should ride deep enough that the actuator can move it. If it is outside the box, are you able to install the actuator?

It sounds like it would just drop in again out of reach of the actuator. When you have it pulled outward, are you able to move it?

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, August 8th, 2023 AT 8:52 PM
Tiny
CAREY BLINDENHOFER
  • MEMBER
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Hi Joe,

The pic was hard to get a bead on due to the awkward location.
This was the best I could do.
If the tabs are on the outside of the hole, you can move the connector, but I wouldn’t say it was moving the interior flap, but I definitely didn’t try too hard as it’s very difficult to grip, and I didn’t want to break anything.
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Wednesday, August 9th, 2023 AT 12:59 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,709 POSTS
Hi,

The pic is fine. I have a feeling that part is either cracked or the door is stuck. The only thing I can suggest is if you can't access it to see if the door moves, we likely need to remove the unit which requires removing a lot of parts. Also, the heater core and evaporator will need to come out at the same time. Heck, they even tell you to remove both front doors. Ugh! See step 8 in pic 6.

I attached the directions below for the removal of the housing for you to see. It is a bit overwhelming but doable.

Question: Are you able to fully remove the part with the tabs for inspection?

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Wednesday, August 9th, 2023 AT 9:59 PM

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