Check Engine Light (P0010 DTC): “A” Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit/Open Bank 1?

Tiny
LARRYCV7
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157,000 MILES
2006 Toyota, Camry LE 3.0L (1MZ-FE) V6 / Approximately - 157K miles

Malfunction: CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (P0010 DTC):
“A” Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit/Open Bank 1


I'm having a hard time figuring out what is actually faulty.
The items below are things that I've done this far and still haven't fixed anything.

Tools I have: Basic tool set, Multi-meter, Test light, BlueDriver coder reader.


Fuses:
Engine Bay J/B
EFI Fuse = No defects
ING Fuse = No defects
ING 2 Fuse = No defects

Main Cabin J/B
Checked all fuses = No defects

RELAY - Engine Bay J/B
Swapped EFI rely for Horn relay = No changes noted

ENGINE OIL:
Filter and oil replaced about 100 miles ago with, 5W-30 oil.


Rt Side (Bank 1) SOLENOID - Closest to firewall
Checked terminals for continuity = 7.6 Ohms
Check terminals against housing grnd'g = 0 Ohms
Applied 12V to solenoid = Spindle moved/clicked
Replaced – Just because = No changes noted

Lt Side (Bank 2) SOLENOID - Closest to radiator
Checked terminals for continuity = 7.5 Ohms
Check terminal against housing for grnd'g = 0 Ohms
Applied 12V to solenoid = Spindle moved/clicked
Replaced – Just because = No changes noted

Rt Side (Bank 1) Camshaft Position Sensor
Replaced – Just because = No changes noted

Wire Continuity
Rt Side (Bank 1) - Disconnected and checked wires for continuity between solenoid plug to ECU plug = Less then 1 Ohm
Lt Side (Bank 2) - Disconnected and checked wires for continuity between solenoid plug to ECU plug = Less than 1 Ohm

ECU
Side note: This DTC existed before I replaced the ECU.
Replaced with a rebuilt ECU for a Transmission solenoids & TFT Sensor related DTC's. Tranny DTC issues went away after replacing ECU but the P0010 code remains.
Thursday, February 20th, 2025 AT 11:36 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Yep, you are correct, with a Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit/Open Bank 1 means there is a connection problem, here is a guide to help you test the wiring. Most of the test will be the sensor of valve but since you already did that, it narrows it down nicely.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Thanks for the detailed question, it helps. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Thursday, February 20th, 2025 AT 2:41 PM
Tiny
LARRYCV7
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So, an additional note when I went to check the voltage with KOEO at both VVT solenoid terminal plugs I got the following:
Bank 1 - Green/red wire =0V
Bank 1 - Green/blk wire = 11.7V (which I didn't have before this time)

Bank 2 - Blue/Red wire = 10V
Bank 2 - Blue/White wire = 11.75V

However, when I cycled the key to off then KOEO again to clear fault then perform a new DTC scan I was rewarded with new DTC's. They are as follows:
P0010 (OLD). NEW: P0020, and the crowed pleaser of P0748.

When I checked the terminals for voltage again power was, (0V), gone except for 1.6V on one of the wires to Bank 2 VVT solenoid. Not sure what this is trying to indicate but right off the cuff my thinking is I have 3 choices:

1.) SL1 solenoid shares a power source with the VVT solenoids?
2.) Computer screwed up again?
3.) Wiring is way worse than I thought?

My electrical knowledge is limited but I’m trying to think this through... Not sure how to isolate things now. Please help!
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Friday, February 21st, 2025 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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I would unplug the VVT solenoids and the PCM to check the continuity of the connection for the wires only. Don't worry about the outputs yet.
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2025 AT 12:15 PM
Tiny
LARRYCV7
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Did that got less then an 1 Ohm.
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Thursday, March 6th, 2025 AT 4:38 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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So I don't get the circuit open code just a circuit code which means the expected sine wave is off which usually means there is a problem inside the engine, IE: timing chains, camshaft actuators, the oil control valves might be clogged or the engine oil is dirty/low and needs to changed, does the engine make a slight rattling noise while running at idle?

Code: P0010 - "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
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Friday, March 7th, 2025 AT 9:17 AM
Tiny
LARRYCV7
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I bought this car second hand, so I was doing preventive maintenance in that I replaced the timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys, cam shaft seals, and the valve cover seals. I'll go back and recheck the timing alignment marks and see what I find. Thought the ECU would see the difference btw the cam and crank and spit out a code. Even it its only slightly off?

As far as the camshaft actuators go (VVT Solenoids - Bank 1 and Bank 2) I tested both the old ones after I removed them. Tested for resistance, grounding out, and applied 12V power to ensure the spindle/actuator actually moved. They passed each test. Additionally, just for time's sake I replaced them with new ones, but nothing changed.

Checked vehicle 4 additional times. Each time the key was turned to KOEO the OBD II would display combination of DTC’s. Sometimes displaying all four codes (P0010, P0020, P0712, and P0748). Other times it’d display varying combinations of those 4 codes. Rechecked voltage with KOEO at VVT solenoid plugs and received a range of voltages (12V - 1.6V). Same issues were noted for the P0712 and P0748 after recycling the KOEO the DTC may or may not be displayed.

I cleaned every grounding point within the engine bay, they're clean. Not sure if one the grounding wires from the ECU plug to the actual ground point may be messed up? Haven't checked that yet.

Any thoughts?
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Friday, March 7th, 2025 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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The p0010 code is for the correlation issues. Did you change out the camshaft phasers as well? The part on the rear of the camshafts. Here are diagrams to help you check the timing marks for the belt and how to change the phasers out with the timing marks for those as well. Clear the code once completed. Check out the images (below).
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Saturday, March 8th, 2025 AT 9:58 AM
Tiny
LARRYCV7
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You were absolutly right about rechecking the timing. Thank you for that information!
After I removed all the timing covers two inspect the crank/camshaft's alignment marking I did fine the two cam marks were off. Apperently, as I found out on this vehicle when ya set the timing aligment marks ya have to advance it by 1 tooth before pulling the gernade pin on the timing belt tensioner. After doing so it applied tension on the timing belt pulling it back to the proper alinement marks on the cam 2-camshaft markings. It started and I cleared the the codes.

Still have one DTC left pertaining to the transmission:
P0748 - Pressure Control Solenoid "A" electrical

Things I've tried in trouble shooting:
- Replaced the tranny fliud as it pertains to what was in the trans-pan only.
- Replaced the Tanny Filter.
- Checked resistance of wiring from ECU plug to plug outside of the tranny:
Reads 6.4 Ohms
- Checked for damaged/corroded terminals at the plug connection point on tranny: No Defects Noted

- Checked wiring resistance from the tranny plug to the valve body solenoid:
- Removed the SL1 Solenoid inspected for damage: None Noted
- Applied 12V power: Solenoid acctuates fine
- Checked resistance of the solenoid: 5.4 Ohms
- Checked solenoid terminals against it's casing (ground):
- Reassembled tranny & performed initial fliud service. On flat/level surface
- Warmed car to operating temp. Rechecked & serviced as required: At proper Fld level
- Cycled through the gears 5 times. Rechecked fluid: Fluid at proper level.
- Cleared OBD II of DTC's: Check Engine Light went out and immediatly returned with the same code P0748.

Did I miss something here too?
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Sunday, March 16th, 2025 AT 2:56 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Nice work getting the p0010 code fixed, timing the camshafts can be tricky, sorry, we only handle one problem per thread, please post your P0748 code question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, March 17th, 2025 AT 9:48 AM

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