Can turn the key one click then nothing, let off key turn it again car will turn over and start.
Dec 15, 2017 at 11:11 AM
Does not turn over ever time you turn the key
2001 HONDA ACCORD
LUIS140
- MEMBER
- 1 POST
- FOLLOW
Advertisement
Are you saying you turn the ignition switch one click, or you turn the ignition switch to "crank", then get one click from under the hood? Does "nothing" mean just the starter does not spin or everything goes out, including the instrument cluster?
If everything goes out, follow the smaller battery positive wire to the under-hood fuse box and be sure that connection is clean and tight. Follow the smaller negative wire to the body and be sure that connection is tight and not rusty.
If only the starter is not working, are you hearing a light click like a relay turning on, or a single, rather loud clunk from the starter? If that is one loud clunk, since the starting system works later, the best suspect is burned contacts inside the starter solenoid. To check for that, measure the voltage at the larger terminal on the starter where the battery cable is attached, then on the braided wire going into the motor. A test like works fine for this. Have a helper run the ignition switch or place the test light where you can see it from inside the car. When the problem occurs, if the test light stays bright on the battery cable terminal but not on the braided wire going into the motor, the contacts are arced away on the solenoid contacts.
If you lose the twelve volts on the battery cable terminal on the stater, check that cable for bad connections and for corrosion hidden under the first inch of its insulation.
If you have twelve volts on the braided cable to the starter motor when the motor does not spin, suspect a bad connection in the negative battery cable. To verify that, clip the test light's ground cable to the battery's negative post, and touch the probe on a paint-free point on the engine. Electrically those are the same point in the circuit so the light should never turn on. If there is a bad connection in that cable, the test light will light up when trying to engage the starter.
If everything goes out, follow the smaller battery positive wire to the under-hood fuse box and be sure that connection is clean and tight. Follow the smaller negative wire to the body and be sure that connection is tight and not rusty.
If only the starter is not working, are you hearing a light click like a relay turning on, or a single, rather loud clunk from the starter? If that is one loud clunk, since the starting system works later, the best suspect is burned contacts inside the starter solenoid. To check for that, measure the voltage at the larger terminal on the starter where the battery cable is attached, then on the braided wire going into the motor. A test like works fine for this. Have a helper run the ignition switch or place the test light where you can see it from inside the car. When the problem occurs, if the test light stays bright on the battery cable terminal but not on the braided wire going into the motor, the contacts are arced away on the solenoid contacts.
If you lose the twelve volts on the battery cable terminal on the stater, check that cable for bad connections and for corrosion hidden under the first inch of its insulation.
If you have twelve volts on the braided cable to the starter motor when the motor does not spin, suspect a bad connection in the negative battery cable. To verify that, clip the test light's ground cable to the battery's negative post, and touch the probe on a paint-free point on the engine. Electrically those are the same point in the circuit so the light should never turn on. If there is a bad connection in that cable, the test light will light up when trying to engage the starter.
Dec 15, 2017 at 1:43 PM