1998 Dodge Van Odometer flashing

ERS965

MEMBER
1998 DODGE VAN
6 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
131,000 MILES

The van would start up and run fine first time of the day, then it would start fine but stall when put in gear, unless I kept the engine revved up. The other day after driving it 30 miles round trip it would not start at all, no spark or power to the injectors, a friend put a "noid?' On it, but it will turn over. I replaced the ECM still nothing, then I replaced the crankshaft position sensor, I know kind of backward way of going about it, nonetheless, still won't start and now the odometer is flashing on and off. Oh and there is a big hole where I put my head through the wall.

7 Replies

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,873 POSTS

Can't help with the wall ventilation, but I'll try with the no-start.

Turn the ignition switch to "run", to "off", to "run", to "off", to "run" within five seconds, and leave it there. If the starter engages, even for a second, turn the ignition switch off, wait a few seconds, then start over. You will either see diagnostic fault codes displayed in the odometer readout or the Check Engine light will flash a series of two-digit codes. Have your pen and paper ready.

If the Check Engine light starts flashing, count the flashes, then there will be a short pause, then the second digit will be flashed. After a longer pause, the next code will be flashed the same way. Some vehicles start with code 12. You can disregard that one. It just means the ignition switch was turned off. The last code will be 55. That means it's the end of the message.

Holler back with those codes. They will lead us to the circuit or system with the problem, not necessarily the bad part.

Caradiodoc

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Tuesday, March 16th, 2010 AT 10:53 PM

ERS965

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4 POSTS

I tried several times and all I get is a flashing odometer. It just flashes in a steady, constant manner, there is no pause nor does it stop. The check engine light flashes on when I finally leave it in the run position, but then goes off as do the other warning lights and never comes back on. After about 4 or 5 minutes the ABS and brake warning lights come back on as does the low fuel indicator, I just put 15 gallons in the tank before it quit on me though. So, back to square one a flashing odometer is the only clue I have right now.

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Wednesday, March 17th, 2010 AT 11:18 AM

CARADIODOC

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Your description suggests there are two, probably related problems. The easiest one to diagnose would be the lack of voltage to the injectors, but are you aware the voltage will only be there during engne cranking?

Voltage to the injectors, coil, alternator field, fuel pump or pump relay, and oxygen sensor heaters comes from the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay. The Engine Computer turns that relay on for one second after you turn the ignition switch to "run", then it turns it off until it sees engine rotation, (cranking or running).

If the noid light flashed during cranking, the ASD relay is turning on. That would leave out the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors.

Caradiodoc

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Wednesday, March 17th, 2010 AT 3:41 PM

ERS965

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Turns out the ASR is on the fuel pump fuse, it had burned out, the fuse, and I guess that shuts down everything. So, it ended up costing &360.00 to find out it was a ten cent fuse. Expensive lesson.

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Wednesday, March 17th, 2010 AT 7:37 PM

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
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Happy to hear it's fixed, but not happy about the cost. Did they tell you what caused the fuse to pop? 360 bucks suggests they spent around four hours on it. I hope it didn't take that long to find just a fuse.

Caradiodoc