The bands are adjustable but doing so isn't likely to solve a slipping problem. Two different transmissions were used for this model depending on which engine you have. The 3.0L V6 used the computer-controlled 4-speed transmission. These drawings pertain to the more common hydraulically controlled 3-speed with the 2.5L 4-cylinder engine.
The kick-down band adjustment screw and instructions are shown in the first drawing. The adjustment for the low / reverse band is inside. The pan and filter must be removed to get to it. There's no photo showing the adjustment screw, but as I recall, it's in the lever that's partially shown in the lower right of the second drawing along with the specifications and procedure. That lever is also shown in the lower right, part # 14, in the fifth drawing.
This 3-speed transmission is really tough. As such, most slipping problems are caused by low fluid level. The fluid type and fill procedure are shown in the 6th drawing. Slipping can also be caused by worn fiber plates in the clutch packs. At first that will cause "engine runaway" during up-shifts, meaning it feels like the transmissions goes into neutral for one or two seconds when it's going into a higher gear. That has nothing to do with the band adjustments. Only a rebuild will solve that. As the wear gets worse, the most common symptom is slipping in third gear when accelerating.
This same Torque Flite design has been used in rear-wheel-drive applications since the 1960s. I've been involved with three that developed a broken low / reverse band. The symptom was no movement in reverse which some owners confused with "slipping". The clue that verified the diagnosis was when shifted into manual "1" or "low", the transmission would still up-shift to second gear at the appropriate speed, then stay there. It was supposed to stay in first gear. The broken band allowed it to go into second gear
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Thursday, February 17th, 2022 AT 3:59 PM
