Is it the key sticking in the lock cylinder or the switch is sticking and won't turn? The cylinder will bind if the steering wheel lock is putting pressure on it. Try turning the wheel a little when turning the key.
If something happened to the cylinder, remove the upper and lower covers on the steering column around the ignition switch. Insert the key into the cylinder. If you sight through the steering wheel, near the key, you'll see a silver roll pin, about 3/16" in diameter. Push that pin in with a small flat blade screwdriver as far as possible, (less than 1/4"). Wiggle the key and cylinder until they pop out.
On the end of the cylinder is a gray metal cam about 5/8" in diameter. If it is loose or cracked, you found the problem. The dealer has a repair kit for that. They can also inspect the tumblers in the cylinder. If the cylinder is worn out, (not common), they can build a new one for you in the Parts Department that will use your old keys. To install the cylinder, push it into the switch and wiggle it until it goes all the way in to where it looks normal. Turn the key to the crank position. When you turn the key, it will push the roll pin out to lock the cylinder in place.
If you think the switch is defective, it is held in with three tamper-proof torx screw. You'll need to find a Snap-on, Matco, Mac, or Cornwall tool truck guy to supply the proper screwdriver bit. Take the whole assembly to the Parts Department. They can remove the cylinder for you and put it into the new switch. There are two shafts sticking out of the backside of the switch that engage the steering wheel lock. I don't know how I get them lined up, and I can't describe it, but it always seems to go together without too much fighting. After all, it's not a GM!
By the way, the most common problem is that metal cam on the cylinder, but the typical symptom is the dash lights come on but the starter doesn't crank. The cracked cam doesn't turn the switch quite far enough. The most common problem with the switch is overheated and burned contacts or a melted connector and burned terminals. The effected circuit usually involves the radio, power windows, and heater. This is more common if you use the heater fan on "high" quite often.
Caradiodoc
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Friday, March 27th, 2009 AT 1:34 AM
