Where is the fuel filter located, directions and pictures needed?

Tiny
ROVERRUNNER
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
My vehicle showed sluggish response to acceleration for a quick pass and then a few moments later, threw a check engine light with restricted performance indicator image on instrument cluster. I came off the highway to a neighborhood street and the vehicle began showing signs of misfire with limp mode like performance. I took it to Orielly's, got the codes read. Every cylinder misfire code displayed, some other codes for camshaft and sensor codes, O2 codes, transmission module code, ECM code, etc. Some are from previous events that were corrected but still presenting codes from internal code archives I imagine. I removed plugs and coils. Cleaned carbon off plugs, reattached them and coils, checked all electrical connections to ensure they made reconnection, and cleaned mass airflow sensors, replaced air filters, hooked up battery jumper since battery drained during the few troubleshooting days I was checking vac lines, wires, performing tune up on vehicle, and vehicle wouldn't start. Unhooked battery, unhooked MAF sensors, and Next day vehicle did start on jump but quickly puttered down to stall. The exhaust isn't plugged, so figured it must be fuel filter, as I used 87 Oct for a few fill-ups during a few weeks I was crunching a tighter budget. Vehicle ran strong prior to breakdown event. Can't find a single image or video for location or instructions to location for my vehicle listed above hse lux 5.0 L gas v8 4wd automatic L322 model generation SUV. Did a Google search with VIN, SALMF1D49BA340658 and still can't get specific requested results. I saw an image for another model that I clicked to reference their search parameters and saw your site. Hope you can help.
Sunday, May 7th, 2023 AT 5:50 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
The fuel filter is part of the fuel pump module and is replaced with the pump. To get to it you need to remove the back seat and remove the access plate. Then use an unlocking tool to remove the lock ring. Disconnect the connection and lines and remove the line and then the pump. Reverse the process to install the new pump. Before you do that, I would test the fuel pressure at the feed under the hood. The prime pressure should be around 90 PSI. If you have that then see how fast, it will pump fuel into a container. If it's clear and flowing good and meets pressure, then it's likely not the filter or pump. If you get no pressure or low flow the next place to look is the fuel pump driver module. For that you will need a scan tool that can activate the pump module.
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Sunday, May 7th, 2023 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for your timely response, Steve. I do not have a scanner tool or tool to check pressure. I disconnected a fuel line under the hood exploring for leaks. Did not know it was. Enough fuel came out to wet both hands within a second or two. Clean if I recall but it was night. It had.
Connector that was red. I played with it because the connector appeared altered as there was some space about a nickel size in thickness. Turns out the plastic was broken there but the line was not leaking before or after Dr r unconnected/reconnected it. It sounds like I may need to tow it to someone who has these tools in his shop. I had a bad experience at a dealership and unfortunately, it's left me untrusting of what I can count on anywhere. That's why I've resorted to learning what I need to as I troubleshoot and repair what I'm able to, because I can't risk another major financial loss and vehicle damage that occurred then. I'm too old to go to jail for running Rover through the service department's front doors and wrecking their respectful property, cooler heads prevail they say!
I have one mechanic I trust here; I'll check to see if he has the tools you mentioned. Thanks again for your professional response and related imaging.
Have. A blessed week!
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Sunday, May 7th, 2023 AT 9:04 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Have had similar thoughts myself at times. You can get the pressure gauge as a loaner tool but not the scan tool. What I would suggest is to erase all the codes, then see what it does and see which code(s) return. A P0300 would be a common sign of low fuel pressure but it could also be a vacuum leak or ignition breakdown. Clear all the codes first (write down what they show and if it says, current, pending or history. Then see what comes back. Don't want to replace a fuel pump if the problem is something else.
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Monday, May 8th, 2023 AT 7:21 AM
Tiny
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  • MEMBER
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Thanks again Steve. At this point in my quest to self-service my vehicle, it will be a worthy investment to buy a scanning tool. I'll try your suggestion to see what codes
are current before proceeding, and I will courteously post an update.
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Monday, May 8th, 2023 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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If you want one that can handle most anything and still not break the bank you might look at the newer TopDon gear, they sell everything from simple code readers on up to full out pro gear. The basic code readers are handy to just toss in the car, say you are out in the middle of nowhere and the light comes on, you can pull the code and at least know if it's something to worry about. However, they don't let you scan all the modules so if you pulled a P0700 code you would just know it was a problem in the transmission system, where a better tool would tell you the real code. Then the next step up to their mid-range tools lets you scan all systems and do things like reset the oil light, release the parking brake, do battery changes and other things depending on the vehicle. Some of those will make you want to find the engineer who added it and give them a thrashing. IE do you really need to tell the car's computer that you changed the taillight bulb!!

https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools
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Monday, May 8th, 2023 AT 1:13 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for the suggestion, Steve. So, I went and bought a simple code reader that allows me to erase codes when done with a report. After a few reads that gave a few different codes in addition to the same ones, I drove the vehicle to create a new drive cycle. On the first read the. Rover showed 4 instead of 8 cylinders misfiring. 302 to 308, all even number ones on drivers' side of engine. 304 and 306 read differently than 302 and 308 (attaching pic of report), I also Got a 0300 and 0316 code and poo18 p0019 and 06xx code too. The report mentions codes in order as stored, pending, permanent. It appears permanent are a few codes less than the other groups. I'm confused about it all. Two real time occurrences starting and driving. Engine turns over, but stalls when rpms lower to idle. Will stay cranked if the RPMs revved over 1,000. Shifting to drive from neutral with RPMs revved up at 2000 vehicle rpms drops almost to stall, does its shake, rumble and groaning then picks up movement and speed. Shifts maybe 3 or 4 times with speed topping at 50ish teetering back and forth on another shift depending on if I had a tail wind to push me past 55mph. On the first few shifts in momentum vehicle shifted slower if I pressed harder on gas pedal vs. More lightly. I went to get a loaner fuel pressure tester but counter guy said there's to fuel pumps. One behind head call a high-pressure pump that reader wouldn't work on saying he thought from vehicle current performance description I gave that would be a more probable target than fuel tank pump which pressure tester will Guage pressure on. I'm not sure what to do now. He kind of talked me out of my reason for going there but afterwards thought I should probably check it anyways because his opinion Doesn't make it fact on my vehicle because his Mini Cooper experienced that scenario. Even it's more probable than possible, I kind of feel like I should still check fuel pressure to rule in or out on tank pump that pressure tester tests.
What is your professional suggestion, Steve?
One more real time fact.I can Rev rpms up to about 3 to 4 k at idle in park keeping rpms constant at fixed pedal pressure, if that helps on repair suggestion probability for fuel pressure / ignition related symptoms.
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Friday, May 12th, 2023 AT 6:32 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Codes are basically Stored = Current codes it has. Pending = codes that have set one instance but have not turned on the light yet and Permanent = Codes that set and that will not clear until the issue is repaired.
The P0300 would fit due to the other misfire codes. It basically is redundant telling you that you have more than one cylinder misfiring.
The P0019 is a seatbelt code, the P0018 means that the brake lights were on while you had the engine running P0630 is a transmission code. None of these will cause the misfires you have but the P0630 could be caused by the misfires. Now that you know it is only one side misfiring it does narrow it down some. It does have two high pressure pumps as well as the in tank. The only filter is on the in-tank pump. With the single bank misfire codes, it could be that sides high pressure pump. Plus, your reading of the code points to a known problem that has a TSB on it. LTB00409NAS4 issued 25 OCT 2013
You can read it here
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/MC-10214023-9999.pdf
However, I'm thinking that it may not be the problem. Being a single bank misfire there are not many things that only apply to one bank of the engine. In this case the main single item is a ground point for all of the fuel injectors on that cylinder bank. A bad or missing ground would also show as misfires. Both sides share a power feed but not a ground. A simple way to test would be a cheap test light. Connect the light to battery positive and then pick the easiest injector connector to get to and unplug it, use the test light to touch the middle pin (black wire) in the connector. That is the ground pin. The light should light up strong. I suspect it may, but the ground still may be corroded. The ground would be at the left front of the engine, and it would have 4 wires all crimped into a single ring terminal. That style connection is very bad for corroding. I would look there first. Then if cleaning or replacing that ground point doesn't change anything, I would test the power side of the injectors as well, for that you connect the test light to battery ground and touch pin 3 (white wire). If it lights, then it should have power. If those are both good, then I would look at the TSB. Be warned that the parts are not low cost, and you will need a labor guide to do the repairs yourself as Rover tends to complicate many vehicles. For the guide you can get a DIY version of the service information from either Mitchell (eautorepair.net) or Alldata (alldata.com). They both offer monthly, yearly or multiyear plans for a single vehicle with Mitchell being FAR more affordable and they offer money back if you get in there and discover that the DIY side tosses around things like "Take the vehicle to a dealer" instead of listing a repair. I'm not sure if they do that but in some of the DIY "service" manuals out there it was a common thing to make it seem like the dealership had special powers.
About the only real thing they have are all the special tools and hopefully talented folks who know how to use them.

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Friday, May 12th, 2023 AT 10:27 PM
Tiny
ROVERRUNNER
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  • 7 POSTS
Steve. Thank you for responding so quickly and thoroughly. The information you have given is easy to understand, and the instructions seem simple enough to follow. Thank you for offering I sight into an b and c if a does not accomplish my goal here. Hopefully it's the first scenario and I'll have my "missed" daily driver back soon. I've been using it. My motorcycle to get around. It's been cool except today it got a little dodgy having to outrun a typical Florida afternoon thunderstorm on my way home from the gym. I'll let you know how things go early this week. Enjoy the rest of your weekend kind sir.
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Saturday, May 13th, 2023 AT 8:55 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Good luck with it and please report back with what you find.
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Sunday, May 14th, 2023 AT 6:12 AM
Tiny
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I've went through the steps you suggested, with the exception of removing that ground on the front left of engine. It appeared I would have to remove some water hoses to get to it. I did put a wire brush to it the best I could, for sake of cleaning any corrosion/dirt was there. It did light up on ground test with the test light connected to battery positive before and after putting the wire brush there. The wire connectors going to coil packs all lit up on the ground test, however the power test to those did not light up when using the test light to test that, connecting to battery ground and touching the white wire connections. When you said test the ground and power to injectors were you referring to that connector that connects to coil packs? I did another read on obd2 tester and all 8 cylinders misfiring codes popped up again as well as p052c, p019, p018. P0300.
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Thursday, June 1st, 2023 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
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P0316, all 13 codes saying permanent with 2 showing pending on last read for p0630 and p0193. If I used the test light correctly as you mentioned, what does no light testing power to coil packs suggest? Or did I test wrong area when you said test power to injectors?
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Thursday, June 1st, 2023 AT 5:50 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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If you have the key on and don't have battery voltage on the white power feeds to the coils go check fuse 20.
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Friday, June 2nd, 2023 AT 1:18 AM

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