Difficulty with new cooling system parts

Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 2013 LAND ROVER LR4
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 95,000 MILES
Hi,

Customer had a coolant leak, turned out to be the crossover pipe underneath the intake. They went ahead and decided to also replace the water pump, thermostat, and junction tube from the water pump to under the intake. The truck had the wrong coolant in it, some rust and corrosion in the passages led to the disintegration of the crossover pipe inlet.

Now, it seems like either the system is either clogged or can't be bled. Apparently there's a special procedure to bleed:

- Fill up the bleeder valve on the crossover pipe.
- Start engine and crack the bleeder valves on the overflow tank and at the heater core.

Unfortunately it just won't bleed. Can't leave the overflow tank cap off because the coolant will just rise and flow out of it. Upper rad hose gets really tight. When running I'm not getting heat and when the radiator fan kicks on the temperature on the dash will jump to hot and we're back to square one. However, when it sits for a while to cool down we can top it off with more coolant, but no it is not leaking again.
Monday, February 24th, 2020 AT 4:06 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This vehicle has an expansion tank. Due to having the wrong coolant I suspect there is some build up in the system. Have you removed both lines from the tank and checked to make sure they are not clogged?

Is the coolant bubbling and then pushing out of the bottle?

I suspect that the coolant cannot expand to the bottle and it causes it to "back up" in the system and it pushes back up the supply line or return line.

I would pull them off and make sure the bottle can flow and the lines shown in the picture.

Let me know and we can go from there. Thanks
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Monday, February 24th, 2020 AT 8:56 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
If the cap is off, it doesn't bubble but it just rises up and out of the tank. Of course we can only fill the bottle so it's basically just the coolant we added moving up, then after cutting off the vehicle when it runs hot and sits will it go down and can add more.
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Monday, February 24th, 2020 AT 9:15 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. I just had a Jeep doing this exact same thing and the recovery bottle had a plugged return line. We couldn't see it with the line on it but the entire cooling system had been replaced due to contamination, except the bottle. We just assumed it was fine because it was just a bottle.

I would pull the lines and make sure you have no obstructions. If it is not here, I am sure you have an obstruction, we just need to find it.
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Monday, February 24th, 2020 AT 2:47 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
I will look into that obstruction issue. Just notified today that they topped it off after sitting all day again, started it and got some heat going in the vents. This time it didn't run hot, and just as he put it into drive the engine started shaking and engine light flashing, and the exhaust smoked so much it fogged the entire garage, smells like burnt paper.

Now, before the vehicle was touched even before the cooling problem there were 4 codes, cylinders 3, 6, and 8 misfire, and random misfire.
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Monday, February 24th, 2020 AT 6:11 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Oh man. That's not a good sign. If it was actually overheating before, it sounds like you now have a warped head and a head gasket issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2020 AT 4:52 PM

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