Shuts off while driving, only when warmed up

Tiny
STEPHEN BREWER JR.
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD MUSTANG
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
Car listed above is a GT. Shuts off once warmed up then won't fire. Sputters a little. New fuel pump because shop said the readings were off when car warmed up ($1,000.00). Next day same symptoms and towed back to shop. New air idle control seemed to help for awhile but now it dies Every time it warms up. No codes. Please help. Much appreciated!
Sunday, September 22nd, 2019 AT 11:52 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

Since it is happening when it is warm, my first suspect is a bad crankshaft position sensor. When they start going bad, they tend to fail when they get hot. When it won't start, check to see if there is spark to the plugs. I suspect there isn't. Or you can use a live data scanner to see if there is an rpm signal.

Take a look through these links. The first one explains what the sensor does, the second symptoms, and the third shows in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Let me know if the symptoms indicated seem to mirror what you are experiencing. I will then better know the best way to direct you.

Take care,
Joe
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Sunday, September 22nd, 2019 AT 5:55 PM
Tiny
STEPHEN BREWER JR.
  • MEMBER
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Thanks Joe, the shop still has it. Would a established shop be able to diagnose this do you think? If they don't have a clue by tomorrow I'm bringing it home. They already charged me$1000 for a fuel pump they thought was the problem.
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Sunday, September 22nd, 2019 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Welcome back:

I would think they should be able. That is one of the most common causes if the symptoms you described. Wow! A grand for a fuel pump? That's a lot.

It's easy to check. If there is no RPM signal when it fails to start (using a live data scanner) or spark is lost to the plugs will tell the story. Interestingly, under certain conditions a bad sensor will not set a diagnostic trouble code, so that confuses people.

Feel free to let me know if you have questions or need help. I can walk you through the testing process if needed and you can do it yourself.

In case you want to check it yourself, chances are you don't have the live data scanner, so here is a link that explains how to check for spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

You can do it that way or when it refuses to start, see if starting fluid makes a difference. If it doesn't even start for a couple seconds using starting fluid, there is no ignition spark.

Also, when it refuses to start, see if you can hear the fuel pump prime when you first turn the key on.

Take care and let me know what happens.

Joe
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Sunday, September 22nd, 2019 AT 8:38 PM
Tiny
STEPHEN BREWER JR.
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
$600.00 more for some random things and I guess a messed up wire.
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 2:47 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome back:

I can't read the pic. What was done? What parts and which wire?

Joe
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
STEPHEN BREWER JR.
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Fuel pump driver module, oil pressure switch, fuel rail pressure sensor was reading 90 psi and should be reading 45-50 psi. Fixed chaff wires to idle air control and twisted wires at fuel rail pressure sensor.
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 5:31 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Thanks for letting me know. The fuel pressure was certainly the problem.

Let us know if we can help in the future.

Joe
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM

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