Code P0301, cylinder one has no contribution?

Tiny
ALANRA1014
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
The car starts and runs but is rough. A code P0301 is stored. Ignition spark is strong, new plugs were installed and are confirmed firing. Number one injector replaced after Noid light test at the harness confirmed good signal. (Old injector ohmed out good) RPM drop test performed on all cylinders by pulling plug wires and injector harness one at a time. Only number one has no contribution. Compression around 120PSI and even across all four cylinders. Engine vacuum reading good and steady, responds well at snap throttle test. Any ideas?
Tuesday, July 19th, 2022 AT 10:38 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,632 POSTS
Hello, have you checked that the Fuel Injector is actually opening, using a stethoscope or long screwdriver to hear it opening? Also, I'm assuming you did just a cranking compression test. 120 is pretty low. The minimum spec is 119 and standard is around 170psi, that's a cranking compression test. But for now, I'd try swapping the coils around and see if the misfire shows up on another cylinder. Youve covered most of the basic bases. Do you have an oscilloscope by chance? There are some resistance specs for the coils I'll put below, I know you have good spark outside the cylinder, but coils can be breakdown under load inside the cylinders. Just so you have this information anyway. Where is the EGR valve located on this model, is it near the number 1 cylinder? There are a couple fixes related to P0300 random misfire, and it was recorded to be carbon build up in the EGR passages. Seems like you have a dead miss if it's not contributing at all. But swapping the coils around and checking for any type of vacuum leak near the number intake runner or around that area would be next to. I'll go through the TSBs and see if there is anything listed there. The first diagram below has some other possibilities for p0301. What was your engine vacuum at? There wasn't any bouncing needle at all either?
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Tuesday, July 19th, 2022 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
ALANRA1014
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Hi Al,

Thanks for your reply. I totally forgot the screwdriver trick so I will need to go and revisit that for sure. You might be right about the compression results; they may have actually been higher than that. I did all this diagnosing last month and am not remembering correctly. But I am headed back to the vehicle in August. I am going to do the coil swap as you suggest and yes, this time I will have my scope with me, unlike my first visit. Yes, that vacuum needle was good and steady - no wandering whatsoever. Responded as expected on a snap throttle. Someone suggested the valves may be too tight on that cylinder, I believe those are hydraulic bucket style lifters. I have no experience with those. My mechanic days were spent working on 60's - 80's vintage vehicles mainly. (Getting too old for this) I was too tired to go any further that day, so I did not pull the valve cover to check. Don't recall where that EGR is located. And yes, you are correct, this is a completely dead miss. Thanks for your input and for the images.
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Tuesday, July 19th, 2022 AT 5:28 PM
Tiny
AL514
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The info on the valve lash adjustment for these actually require a shim to be put in, each camshaft cap needs to be removed one at a time to put a different size shim in. I've actually never seen a design like this. Most valve adjustment I've done was on Hondas where there's just a lock nut and screw to adjust. This looks pretty complicated. It requires special tools that need to be bolted on to hold the camshafts. I'll put the diagrams and information below. But if you have a relative compression test with your scope, you'll be able to see each cylinder's compression hump and if any cylinders are low indicating a mechanical issue.

(First diagram) This is a relative compression test I did on a 06 Honda CRV. You can see the two cylinders that were low. One was a lot worse. This turned out to be a bad head gasket, but I had done a valve adjustment before, and it didn't improve. I used a high amperage amp clamp (600A) to grab this waveform, but you can actually do it right on the battery too. It will just need to be inverted. From the battery it's just measuring voltage drop from the Starter motor versus getting an amperage reading where each hump is the actual compression stroke.

But I think if the valves were too tight, they would actually be staying open instead of sealing the cylinder and you would have popping into the intake or backfiring out the exhaust.
I'd think if you had a completely dead cylinder it would have to be a coil, injector or wiring issue. You could scope the injector too and see if there's a pintle hump just after its inductive voltage spike or with a current amp clamp. I'm sure you probably already know this stuff. We just don't get a lot of people on here that use a scope.
But let me know what you find, I'm really curious what turns up.
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Tuesday, July 19th, 2022 AT 6:56 PM
Tiny
ALANRA1014
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Hi Al,

Yes, thanks for the reminder on the compression test with the scope, when I am able to return to the vehicle next month, I need to remember my amp clamp as well. If it is a valve issue, I am sending it to a local shop. I want no part of that. But yes, the first thing is to swap coils and recheck the ignition. And I do want to see that the pintle hump for myself. Your image of the Honda was interesting. I see the low cylinders, but they don't appear to be extreme. I might have passed that off if it weren't for the fact, they are right next to each other. Thanks a bunch for all your help and the images. This will help greatly.
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Tuesday, July 19th, 2022 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
AL514
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Yeah, doing a relative compression test is very fast and rules out any mechanical issues right away. Just remember when you scope a fuel injector to use an attenuator. The inductive voltage kick can be anywhere from 80 to 150volts. I always use a 20:1 attenuator on my Pico so I don't burn the scope out with over voltage spike. If you need more information or details on those types of tests, just do a YouTube search and you can find any scope settings or voltage ranges. Looking at the Ignition coils setup, it looks like they are a smart coil type where they will receive a 0-to-5-volt square wave signal from the ECM for reference. So, the ECM doesn't control them directly, they have a built-in transistor in the coil itself. So, the ECM just controls the base signal to the transistor and that makes and breaks the ground side of the coil.
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Wednesday, July 20th, 2022 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
ALANRA1014
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Problem solved! I made it back to the vehicle today. The first thing I did was to swap coils. No help. Then I installed a complete new spark plug wire and boot set. That fixed it! Why didn't I catch that the first time with all my testing? My theory: Cylinder #1 spark plug fired when the plug was laying on top of the engine, saw it for myself so I assumed spark was good. However reinstalling the plug then it apparently would not fire. It take more kv for the spark to jump the gap in a high pressure cylinder. I suspect the #1 plug wire had just enough continuity to fire the plug outside the cylinder, but not inside. Ultimately #1 plug wire was the culprit. I also had my timing light with me this time to use as a diagnostic tool, it would not flash at all on plug wire #1. But it flashed fine with the new wire set installed, not to mention the dead miss was gone and now purrs like a kitten. Fuel trims all look great and MAF sensor g/s reads great. Thanks for all your input, great info!
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Friday, August 5th, 2022 AT 3:43 PM
Tiny
AL514
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Yup, that makes perfect sense, always takes a lot more voltage to fire under compression pressures. Glad is wasn't a mechanical issue. Good news.
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Friday, August 5th, 2022 AT 4:59 PM

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