CV drive shaft swap

Hi,

I looked up both and they are different. If you look below, I highlighted the part numbers for you. Note they are different. (Pics 1 and 2)

If you plan to replace it, here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

Let me know which one you plan to repair (model year) and I'll get you the directions specific to your vehicle for replacement.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

That depends on if both are 2.2L automatics, and if both either do have or don't have ABS. The manual trans takes different axles and the 4cyl and 6 cylinder cars are also different.

Joe, I'm doing the 1996 LX 2.2 liter. I'm also replacing the lower ball joint on the driver side.

Hi,

This is a good time to replace the ball joint because you will already have the lower control arm separated. However, you will need a ball joint remover to complete the job.

First, I attached the directions for the removal and replacement of a drive axle. The remaining pics are for the ball joint.

Take a look through them and let me know if you have questions. Also, here are a couple of links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-release-a-ball-joint

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Thanks again for the help and guidance it's greatly appreciated.

Chris,

No problem whatsoever. If you have a chance, let me know how things turn out for you. Also, if you run into any trouble, let me know.

Take care and feel free to come back any time in the future. You are always welcome here.

Joe

One item about changing them out, double check the axle that you get to be sure it's correct. More than once I have gone to swap a Honda CV and gotten the wrong one. On many models the automatic and stick shift parts are very close in size, about a half inch different. Hard to see without setting them side by side. That difference doesn't sound like much, but I have seen them bottom out when the car hits a large bump, that can do serious damage if it happens a few times.

Thank you very much.

Although I'm having an extremely difficult time with the damn axle nut as usual, lol. Any tips or tricks you might have would be greatly appreciated.

Chris,

Are you having trouble removing it? Do you have an air impact wrench? That is what I always use. Let me know if that is what you are referring to.

Also, if it is the spindle nut, there is a spot at the end where there is a place where it is staked into the threads to prevent it from moving. Make sure that it is pried away from the threaded portion. See pic 1.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

Yes, the spindle nut I wasn't sure what it was called. I've replaced the axle on the other side many years ago and I recall that one being a pain as well and I don't think I've had to mess with the driver side since I've owned it, but I did unstake it and have a breaker bar with another pole for leverage, but I just can't get it to budge at all. all I have is a pancake compressor not sure if that would do the trick or not. thank you again so much.

As long as the compressor can build enough pressure just to break it loose. Do you have someone hold the brake while you do this?

Also, if you have a breaker bar on it, smack it a few times with a dead blow hammer. That can break it loose.

Let me know.

Joe

Again, much appreciated. I'll have my buddy push on the brakes. thank you

Happy to help. Let me know how things turn out for you, Chris. Also, let me know if I can help.

Joe

Okay, here is my progress: I have the ball joint out of the knuckle ready for the new one to go in. The spindle nut came off very easy with air tools thanks... Problem I'm having is in the pic sorry about the first picture couldn't figure out how to delete it.

Did you remove the snap ring before trying to press it out? If yes, then you are probably going to need to use different pushing adapters to push the shell out, if it won't move see if you can get the remaining stud to push out and then use a hacksaw to cut out to the edge of the shell on that one and knock it out. Or use a hammer and punch to see if you can crush in the shell to get it loose.

Okay, here is my progress: I have the ball joint out of the knuckle ready for the new one to go in. The spindle nut came off very easy with air tools thanks... Problem I'm having is in the pic sorry about the first picture couldn't figure out how to delete it.

I removed the snap ring from the top of the ball joint, but it snapped off when it gave out so the bottom part where the castle nut and cotter pin goes is still attached to the lower control arm it's in there pretty good. I've been lubricating it, slamming the side of the control arm with a hammer, and even put naval jelly on there since it was pretty rusty... Hopefully I cleared up anything. Here are a couple more pictures. thank you in advance.

Okay, you mean the tapered stud is still in the A-arm. Try this, take a heavy hammer and hold it tight to one side of the arm. Now take another heavy hammer and give the opposite side a good whack with it. This generally will shock the eye enough that it will pop the stud out.

Okay, I'll try that because all my other tactics have failed so far.

If you have access to a torch, even a propane one, you could try heating it as well.