The vehicle keeps forcing all the coolant into the overflow tank?

Yep, this happens when the head gasket has failed.

Here is a guide to help confirm the failure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

Hello BIRDMASTER,

Does the fan come on?

Do you have any codes?

Any leaks that you have noticed?

Is the Temp gauge reading high when it gets hot or are you getting a coolant warning light?

Does this happen at idle like being parked or in traffic? Does it happen on the highway?

Does it look like it is bubbling in the reservoir, or does it slowly rise as the vehicle warms up?

Just need a little more information to determine what part of the cooling system maybe causing the issue.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello BIRDMASTER,

I agree with Ken, sounds like it could be the head gasket. There is a liquid you can use to test it. It detects Nitrogen Oxide in your coolant, which is a byproduct of the combustion process. If the head gasket is leaking these gases should be in your coolant.

I will add a picture of the stuff I am talking about. It can be found at your local auto parts store. You will also need to remove some coolant, so it doesn't get sucked into the test kit.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello BIRDMASTER,

Do you have an Infared thermometer? If not, you can pick one up at your local auto parts store or online. I will add a picture of one for you.

I want to see if coolant is flowing through your radiator, or your system is plugged up somewhere. When the vehicle is at operating temperature, I want you to take a temp reading on the inlet side of the radiator and another on the outlet side. Let me know what you get for temps between the 2 sides.

I would do the same with the thermostat housing. Check the engine side and check on the other side of the housing. If the vehicle is at operating temperature and the thermostat is stuck closed there should be a difference in temperature. If they are the same, then the thermostat is opening, and we can rule that out.

Also how does the coolant look? Any crud, rust in it or oil floating on top or anything out of the ordinary?

There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that pertains to premature water pump failure due to mix of coolant or old coolant that breaks down and causes corrosion in the system. I will add it for your information.

The best way to check for a bad pump in my opinion is to get a coolant system pressure tester and pressurize the system. Do this with the engine cold. There is a tiny hole on the water pump, called a weep hole, which will leak a tiny bit of coolant when the pump is bad. Unfortunately, yours is under the timing cover so in order to access it the front of the motor needs to come apart.

However, I would borrow a pressure tester from an auto parts store and test the system. I will also add an article on how to use it. I usually pump it up to the pressure rating on the cap and leave it on there for a good half hour and see if the gauge has moved at all.

I know you said you had no coolant loss but since there is a TSB for the water pump and it sounds like the coolant isn't moving around for some reason, I think this would be a good place to check. Also, if there is any air in the system this should help force it out. Since you mentioned a low coolant light there might be air in the heads.

Here is the article for the coolant pressure test:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

So, if you could take some temp readings and perform the pressure test, we can see what we get and go from there.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thank you,
Brendon