Code PO455

P0141/P0135 are both heater circuit codes. Look around the sensors and up to the front of the truck for a broken or damaged wire/wires that power the O2 heaters. Not uncommon to see them hit the exhaust or rub on a sharp corner and damage the wires in the harness.

As for the P0455, the best way to find those it to use a smoke machine. If you don't have one you will need to test each section of the system. Start with the EVAP vent solenoid under the truck near the canister. They love to stick open and create a big hole.

No code for a failed pump but there are codes that can point to a bad or failing pump. For instance fuel trim numbers showing a lean condition, or a P0451 Fuel pressure sensor performance, or a P0300 Random Misfire could all point to a pump on it's way out. You can also test the amount of current the pump is drawing as a clue.

Normally you won't smell fuel in the exhaust on most newer vehicles, if there is a fault that stops the engine from actually starting the ECM will shut off the pump and injectors.

The basic way it works - Turn key to start, as soon as the run contact closes it turns the fuel pump on for initial prime. Keep turning key to start and the starter engages. The ECM looks at the cam and crank sensors to determine which cylinder is coming up on compression and starts triggering the ignition for that cylinder. It then monitors the cam signal, oil pressure and tach signal. IF the engine fires and the rpm and oil pressure starts to rise it turns the pump relay on and the engine runs.

IF however the engine doesn't start and the tach signal doesn't rise the pump may not be activated. The ECM doesn't want raw fuel in the convertor. That is the ECMs primary job, to keep the convertor(s) alive through fuel/air control.

In your case the EVAP leak won't cause it to fail to run. Neither would the O2 heater code ON IT'S OWN. What I suspect you will find will be that the wiring is damaged and the reference voltage to the sensor is also grounding out along with the heater wires. That reference voltage is used by other sensors, no voltage to them and the engine doesn't run.

For a LOT more information I would suggest you get a subscription to either Alldata or Mitchell for that vehicle. It runs about 30 dollars for a years access and gives you the same repair information as the pros use, as well as giving you the wiring diagrams and code definitions and the parameters that set them.