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Code P1457

Tiny
TONYSBABYGIRL
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
My check engine light went on this morning. I went to Autozone where they gave me this code and the paper says that most likely I need a new purge solenoid. From the list of possible causes that I see online, it's mentioning (among other things) that it's either the canister or the purge solenoid. But yet, when I do a search of that code the videos and sites that come up are mainly about the vent solenoid. My mechanic says that it's most likely the vent solenoid (that's without looking at my car). I don't have the money to have my mechanic fix it and from what I see online it's something that isn't too difficult and my son can do. The problem is guessing what it is. I don't have the money to be doing that either. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Another quick question. If I choose to save up money until I can have my mechanic look at it (if that's what I choose to do) will it be okay for the car? My mechanic said it would be fine for me to not worry about it until my next inspection which is a year from now.
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Wednesday, October 16th, 2019 AT 4:50 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,748 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

Have you noticed any driveability issues? Based on experience, your mechanic is most likely correct. If it drives the same as always, you will be fine. However, if you want to replace it, that's your call. It isn't hard to do.

The component is mounted on the EVAP canister and is actually called a canister vent shut off valve. Often times, the valve will corrode and not move causing this code. If you look under the rear of the vehicle near the fuel tank, you will see it. I attached a few pics to help you identify it.

Now, before just replacing it, confirm there are no damaged or disconnected vacuum hoses around the EVAP canister. That can also cause this code. However, chances are the valve in question is stuck in the open position.

To replace it, remove the vacuum hose going to it and the two screws which hold it to the canister. It should pull straight out. If it doesn't, try turning it 1/4 turn counterclockwise to see if it will come out.

Once you get the new one, make sure it also has a new o-ring to prevent leaks. I always clean out where the valve goes and lubricate the new o-ring with Vaseline to prevent damage to the new o-ring. LOL

Although the car will most likely continue to run fine, it really should be replaced.

Pictures below.

1) I highlighted some of the vacuum hoses to check.

2) shows the part being removed.

3) it just a better picture of the part and canister.

Let me know if you have questions or need help.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, October 19th, 2019 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
TONYSBABYGIRL
  • MEMBER
  • 67 POSTS
Wow, thank you so much for those diagrams. That will help my son so much. No, my car isn't running any differently but I would want to get it fixed anyway. Not only for the environment but also because if something else goes wrong I won't know it because the check engine light will already be on from this problem. Thanks again!
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Saturday, October 19th, 2019 AT 8:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,748 POSTS
Welcome back:

You are very welcome. Let me know if you run into trouble or have questions. Also, make sure he checks for any issues with all the vacuum hoses there.

Take care and let me know if you get it fixed.

Joe
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Saturday, October 19th, 2019 AT 9:51 PM
Tiny
TONYSBABYGIRL
  • MEMBER
  • 67 POSTS
I figured I was going to have this looked into before I would need a new inspection, which isn't until this October. A couple of weeks ago I got a tune-up on my car. Since then, the light has been off and hasn't come back on. What this code is for shouldn't have anything to do with a tune-up, right?
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 9:45 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,748 POSTS
A tune up would't cause it. However, when working on it, something may have been damaged or disconnected causing a leak.

Joe
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Monday, May 18th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
TONYSBABYGIRL
  • MEMBER
  • 67 POSTS
I don't understand what you're saying. When the car was worked on when? During the tune up? But the light went off after the tune up. Not on.
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Monday, May 18th, 2020 AT 12:30 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,748 POSTS
Hi,

Yes, the tune up. If the light has remained off since then, it is even possible that the tech reconnected something causing a vacuum leak. Has it turned on at all since the tune up?

Joe
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Monday, May 18th, 2020 AT 8:49 PM
Tiny
TONYSBABYGIRL
  • MEMBER
  • 67 POSTS
No, it hasn't gone back on at all. My neighbor did it. All he did was the plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap.
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Monday, May 18th, 2020 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,748 POSTS
Since it hasn't come back, I would let it alone. There is a chance it will eventually turn on, but there is also a chance it was a false reading for one drive cycle and there really isn't a problem.

Just for curiosity, how many miles have you put on it since the tune up? I'm trying to determine if you have completed a drive cycle for this component. If you have and there is no light, you are good to go.

Let me know.
Joe
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Monday, May 18th, 2020 AT 9:12 PM
Tiny
TONYSBABYGIRL
  • MEMBER
  • 67 POSTS
I've driven it, maybe, a hundred miles. Not all at once, just here and there. Could disconnecting the battery have just temporarily shut it off?
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Monday, May 18th, 2020 AT 10:07 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,748 POSTS
If you have already driven it 100 miles, chances are it will stay off. By now, it should have reset.

Anytime the battery is disconnected, it can rest things. However, most drive cycles are completed within 40 to 50 miles. I think you're going to be okay.

Let me know if it comes on or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 9:13 PM

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