Code P0339?

Tiny
JASON BERRIAULT
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 DODGE AVENGER
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,000 MILES
I started driving the car like usual then started to spit and sputter then just stalled. Hooked to computer reader, had code p0335 pointing to crankshaft sensor. So, I replaced it and still did the same issue of stalling, but now have code p0339. Wondering what it could be.
Thursday, January 25th, 2024 AT 8:10 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
Both of those codes point to the circuit for the crank sensor, not so much at the sensor itself. Since the code changed after you replaced the sensor I would start at the sensor connector, is it clean inside? No corrosion on the pins? Next follow the harness from the sensor and look for a damaged or broken wire. A common thing is for a wire to rub on a sharp edge and cause coded by shorting, then you move the harness, and that code goes away, but the wire breaks and you get a different code. Now because those were the only codes set, I would look at the dark blue with gray and the brown with light blue wires as the 5-volt feed is shared by other sensors which didn't set any codes for its loss. My normal process is to visually inspect the harness, give the wires a good tug, they can corrode off and fail but still look okay, then move up the harness looking for damage or stretched areas.
Repair the wiring as needed.
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Thursday, January 25th, 2024 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
JASON BERRIAULT
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Okay, there was no corrosion on the wire connector or the pins on the old sensor so I will have to trace the wires back. Could it be a reluctor wheel? Thanks.
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Thursday, January 25th, 2024 AT 3:37 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
I would rule out the sensor and wiring first before thinking internal engine issues.
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Thursday, January 25th, 2024 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
JASON BERRIAULT
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Well, 2 new sensors, traced back wiring, tested with multi meter nothing has changed.
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Friday, January 26th, 2024 AT 1:45 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
What testing with a meter did you do? Do you have a scan tool that can read live data? In particular you want to look at the crank signal. A scope would be even better. Trying to eliminate the external items first because tearing things apart and then discovering it was a bad crimp at the PCM connector isn't fun.
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Friday, January 26th, 2024 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
JASON BERRIAULT
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I did a back probe to check voltage while the car was running and shut off checked the sensor before hooking it with a multi meter. I was told aftermarket sensors for dodge/Chrysler early work and need OEM sensor. So, I’m going to try that also.
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Saturday, January 27th, 2024 AT 4:14 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
Yeah, for critical parts like crank and cam sensors I always use OE. You will need to do a relearn if you change the sensor, but it should run without it. If you can borrow or have a borescope you could use it to look into the hole and inspect the reluctor, but I've only seen one fail and it told the owner it was failing. That is part in the red circle.
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Saturday, January 27th, 2024 AT 7:26 AM
Tiny
JASON BERRIAULT
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
It needed an OEM sensor not after market. Seems to be fine now with OEM sensor in it. Thanks for the help.
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Wednesday, January 31st, 2024 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
Thank you for the follow up. Glad to hear you found the problem.
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Thursday, February 1st, 2024 AT 7:04 AM

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