Possible clogged heater core

Good evening my name is Roy and I will assist.

Yes, it is. Before going there, make sure there are no air bubbles in the radiator. Check the thermostat and make sure it is opening the correct time. If all is well, then yes, it needs to be power flushed. You can do it yourself. Remove the two hoses going into the heater core under the hood. Use your garden hose to flush the core. Leave it hooked up until there is a good flow, then put the hose on the other side and flush until both sides have a good even flow.

Roy

You are welcome. Let us know how it works out for you.

Roy

If it were a clogged heater core, most likely there would be no circulation and there would be no cockpit heat.

Sounds more to me like your coolant level is low in the radiator (fill to proper level). Hopefully this is the issue and such an easy fix!

(Owner's manual stresses that you check your oil and coolant levels every week!)

Or

Maybe your thermostat is hanging open (sometimes called "stuck open"). This would require its replacement.

Here is what that may involve, this is kind of generic:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Keep us posted,

The Medic

Did you try back flushing the heater core?

I can now understand this a little better.

Using the outside air mode is probably cooling the heater core alot.

Let me sort of back up.

The engine water/heater core sort of are a sort of kind of sealed unit (hear me out).

The engine is suppose to get hot to a certain point (degree of the thermostat) and maintain that temperature.

In theory, the stat opens, lets X-amount of water out (or cracked open constantly) letting the "too hot" water out.

The water pump is constantly circulating the "engine water" (+ through the heater core).

When the thermostat dumps the water into the radiator,

The pump grabs that same amount (or if constant stat cracked open flow) and replenishes the engine's water.

Back to the perfect world, thermostat is closed shut, water pump should not get any radiator water.

Possible other factors:

if the stat has a bypass hole some water will flow.

Water pumps do not have a "check valve" per say, even though it is constantly spinning (circulating the engine) and unable to "put" more water into the engine (thermostat shut). It can still "stir" the extremely cold radiator/hose into the engine.

I know all of that above is not a fix.

Six degrees is really cold!

When your thermostat opens your engine is being replenished with really cold water, which in turn must be heated up to continue the cycle (cooling the engine to an extent).

With the heater blower on, you are cooling down the "trapped" circulating water in the engine, as the heater core is merely a small radiator.

I too, hate the cold!

I went to Army Ranger School in the winter time, every other school too!

I have two Jeeps. Kind of the same problems as yours.

I have two chloroplast signs (corrugated cardboard looking plastic). One is half the size of my radiator (for twenty to thirty degrees), the other is three quarter the size (for the "teens"). I simply shove the "needed" one between the grill and against my radiator. This keeps the radiator water kinda warm to circulate back in. Thank goodness that it is never that cold very long here.

I have torn the internet apart looking for one of those snap onto the front of the grill with a zipper down the middle able to regulate just the right amount of air into it. It was one of those yesteryear Jeep products.(I know I will have to fab one up)

Maybe they have a bra or something that would help with the air for yours?

Got room for some chloroplast?

If you do, keep alert on your temperature gauge, you may have to vary your sizes so that you do not actually run hot!

The Medic