No heat no A/C and cannot change from floor to defrost to dash vents

It could be a bad module, but it sounds more like a bad connection either the connector itself or more common a bad solder joint on the connector in the module. Especially when you can move the controls and it wakes up. Try a couple gentle taps around it when it isn't working, if you see it flicker or it comes on that would confirm the loose connection.
To determine which you can easily remove the controller. You remove the center trim from the stack and the two screws for the control. Then pull it out and check the wire connection on the back. If it is loose you can try putting it back on. If you remove the connector and find a loose pin or similar there are a few things that can be done, they are not hard to re-solder or just hit a salvage yard and get a replacement. Or you could send it out for repair.

That still sounds like a bad connection, but at board level. It can be very hard to see them unless you have a lot of practice looking at bad soldering on automotive items. However if it is confined to the blower speed area that is where I would look first. Bad solder joints can look perfect but have cracks that are microscopic and cause failures. Something you might try would be to spray some contact cleaner into the potentiometer and then see if anything changes. If not then it's going to take some soldering and for that you need to have practice as it's very easy to damage the copper traces on those boards. There are multiple YouTube videos showing how to reflow the solder on them but some of the better ones are from
jeffescortlx and Maic Salazar Diagnostics. However as I said it is real easy to damage the board so I don't advise you to DIY the repair unless you are very comfortable soldering surface mount parts and pins.

HMM darker is usually from heat so look close around it and check the connector itself for loose contacts, find a pin or similar that fits in the connectors just tight enough you can feel it drag going in and out and see if all of the contacts feel the same. The soldering issue is a common thing, not many people have a small iron and magnifiers to work on the tiny parts used these days. Not sure where you are but if you look online there is probably a place near you that does module repair, give a couple places a call and see what it would cost for the repair. That way you know the options.

There are usually a few places around that do the repair work. If you don't find anyone local you could give United Radio a call or drop them an email and see what they can do 800.448.0944 www. Unitedradio. Com/contact-us/ The main office is in NY but they handle items worldwide and do have a branch in Georgia.
Or go to www. Car-part. Com and enter in the information and see if any yards near you have a replacement part, they don't list the pull-a-part type yards though so you won't see the LKQ yard in Chattanooga or others like them. If this is the manual control unit they seem to run between $25.00 and $75.00 for a used one in your area, the electronic ones are $175.00 or so.

The only process you need to do for the install of either style is to unhook the battery, plug in the controller, reconnect the battery and turn on the key to calibrate the actuator positions. Takes about 20 seconds and then you can adjust them.
Good luck and let us know what you end up doing. For me I'd probably find a used one, then use the one you have as a learning tool and re-solder the parts and pins and see if you can repair it. If you get it working great, put the other one on the shelf or sell it off.

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