Instrument panel

I have a 1998 T&C and my instrument panel went dead 4 months ago while driving down the interstate at night. The preceding day it would start then immediately die. It did this about five times, then the anti-theft system kicked in and the key stopped working.
It happened again to me yesterday so I searched the internet again and I found this:

My son is in a wheelchair and drives a 1999 T&C Limited that we purchased in 2003. We recently (Nov 2004) had the car converted to EMC (Electronic Mobility Controls) - they are hand controls for steering, braking, accleration, etc. Sporadically, the instrument panel gauges "die" (tach drops to zero. Gas gauge zero, temp cold and speedometer zero). If this happens when he is driving, the car will continue to operate. If the gauges do not come to life when he is starting the car, the car won't start. A similar incident happened to me when I was driving the car before the EMC conversion, so I can rule out the conversion as the source of the problem. The frequency of this happening was increasing to once or twice a week and I took the car to my local mechanic. He ran some tests on the OBC and discovered error messages of buss communication, over voltage and under voltage and he indicated that it may be the BCM. I took the car to the Chrsler dealer (happened to be the same one who sold the car to the previous owner) and he indicated that the previous owner had brought the car in for service late 2002 for the same problem but did not have it fixed as he sold it shortly after that. The dealer agreed that it sounded like the BCM and I had it replaced for $685. Three days after having the BCM replaced, my son again had a similar incident while driving. This time, all the gauges died and the speedometer pegged out at 120. Additionally, when he stopped the car and attempted to lock it with the remote, it wouldn't work but the door locking button was able to lock the doors. About half an hour later, he returned to the car, the remote openned the door, the gauges came back-to-life and the car ran normally. Does anyone have any ideas what may be happening here! I am concerned that the car will completely die while my son is driving. Appreciate your help.

One person replied to his question

You will find that if you smack dash hard enough with the key on the run position the gauges will start to work and the engine will start but if you continue to try to start with the gauges not working the vehicle will go into a theft mode and not even turn over untill it decides to reset itself this can take up to a day or so so turn the key on hit tha dash till gauges come on then crank and start there is a bad connection on the back of the dash where the wires go in ! The dealers claim the have never heard of this problem but many have spent thousands to fix and never did get fixed but. THIS IS THE PROBLEM.

I'm new to this- trying to figure out reply.
My van I had 2 fuses that were blown. I could not see them unless I pulled each one out. Replaced and works fine.
Before that I talked to 3 mechanics about the problem. Try disconnecting that battery and let it reboot itself when the battery gets hooked up.
One said take instrument panel in to get it reprogrammed? - Replace the logic computer. Also could have a bad circuit panel in the instrument panel.

I'm havin same problem where gauges go out will come back on if you hit the dash, and random starting failures. Any ideas?

I have been having the same issues with the instrument panel failing and the engine not working. Either it just won't turn over (it will try) or it gives me nothing at all.

Today, it happened again. I found this forum and relayed many ideas to my husband who was outside tearing my van apart. He loved having a valid excuse to beat on the dashboard (it works now, thanks!). As for the engine not starting, he found something that I can't find in the forum, so here it is.

There is a connection point/plug of wires next to the transmission fluid dipstick. It was loose and in danger of disconnecting. The clip to hold it closed had been broken off. He reconnected them and tried to start the van again. It worked! He even played around with it to make sure that was the real reason we were having issues. So, check that. Then grab some electrical tape or zip ties. The zip ties can be wrapped around the trans-fluid dipstick tube to hold the connector away from the engine, which was vibrating it loose. Then use the tape or ties to keep it closed. Not a permanent fix but one that will give you some time to find a replacement part.