2005 Chrysler Town and Country Clunking noise won't go away

Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 106,000 MILES
Replaced sway bar bushings and lower control arms. Still clunks when go over bad crack in road. Going to try sway bar links. Garage said struts were fine. Tie rod ends may be worn, as never changed, but dont think they would clunk like that? What think?
Monday, May 17th, 2010 AT 3:57 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Sway bar bushings and links very common failure and always replaced them together
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Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 AT 8:02 PM
Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
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OK. Now I also replaced the tie rod ends and sway bar links. Still clunks.

Now am told "maybe it is the struts afterall". It sure is. Did the bounce test and that is the clunk. '

All done, I now have a new front end. Figure I can replace the front struts for around $450 for parts and tools(Spring Compressor necessary?)
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2010 AT 9:26 AM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_getimage_1.jpg



for about $300 you can buy fully assembled set of front struts no need for tool (spring compressor)
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2010 AT 4:35 PM
Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
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Found a set for $169 so bought them. Got the new Spring Compressor tool from Advance Auto with lifetime warranty and nice case for $52.

I figure 2 hrs per side, as never having done this before.
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Wednesday, May 26th, 2010 AT 9:53 AM
Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
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  • 11 POSTS
Could it be the strut mounts and not the strut that is worn out? The dealer said they replace a lot of mounts but not many struts. What is your experience?
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Wednesday, May 26th, 2010 AT 10:31 AM
Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
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Does the mount come with the strut typically or will I have to order separate?
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Wednesday, May 26th, 2010 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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If you are to go with the new fully assembled strut you would have a new strut, coil spring and strut mount and there would be no need for any special tools
set of two complete struts as shown in the picture (above ) is about $300
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Wednesday, May 26th, 2010 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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If replacing just the strut you will get just the strut in the box and any thing else would need to be ordered (should be available and no special order is needed )

if buying a fully assembled strut all should be together all you have to do is remove out the car and open the box, install
and should have it aligned after
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Wednesday, May 26th, 2010 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
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How hard is it to replace strut mounts in the 2005 T&C? Time and Skill wise. Any special tools needed?
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Tuesday, June 1st, 2010 AT 12:07 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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To replace strut mount need to remove the strut out and use a special coil spring press to press down the coil and remove and replace the mount
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Thursday, June 3rd, 2010 AT 8:39 PM
Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Never did this before. I think I would buy the completely assembled strut and mount in hindsight. It was a pain assembling with the spring, even using the compressor. After installed on Van, found out there was a "special tool" not mentioned in instructions that came with the struts that I needed to secure the piston rod so I could properly tighten the upper mount nut. It still clunked, so I brought to a shop that had the tool and they charged me 2.8 hrs to take the struts back out and tightne the nuts properly. Easy money. I used antiseize on all bolts and it is all new stuff under there. But I will have a sweet ride at the end of this journy, at the cost of an entire new front end job.

Thanks for all your help.
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Monday, June 7th, 2010 AT 8:57 AM
Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
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  • 11 POSTS
Struts did not leak, rubber looked good on mounts. Could the problem have been the upper mount nut all along? I am beginning to wonder.

Have you seen this happen in the past?
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 12:22 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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To eliminate all we start replacing them as an assembly and no noises afterward (new full strut coil and mount)
very common noise maker is the stabilizer bar bushing and links
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
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  • 11 POSTS
Yes, links and bushing first place I started too.

Have you ever seen the upper mount nuts come loose and be the cause of the "clunk"?
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 1:57 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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NO
Not a usual thing
unless it was over torque and stripped
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 4:25 PM
Tiny
LEE.NIVEN
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Used a trick from Haynes manual - 13/16 sparkplug socket with a 10mm 1/4 drive socket inside to hold the strut piston rod while tightening the nut. Worked like a champ.

Bad news: I cracked the windshield trying to get off the wiper arm so I could get access after removing rain tray and wiper motor try assy.

This nut job took an hour once I had the right tools. Lots of screws to get the trays off.
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 9:13 AM

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