1995 Chrysler New Yorker Rack and Pinion / suspension?

Hello
Just a couple of questions or thoughts so we are on the same page. You started having a vibration as you described so that led you to replace the front struts? Or this started afterwards? I am going to assume it was there and replacing the struts made no difference.

When you had the front end aligned after the strut replacement, they ensured that your tie rods, ball joints etc were just fine.

Now when you say you have good tires, how many miles are on them? Are you sure they are balanced correctly a high speed balance is extremely important. Is there mud or another substance stuck to the inside of the tire rim that you can see once the tire is removed? You may have thrown a weight.

The inside of the tire may have slight cord separation. A rim could be slightly bent. When the tires were installed they were not tightened in a crisscross method and or not torque correctly.

My thought my friend is it isnt the rack. I can send you the directions for removing it you have to take the manifolds and certain other things off but you don't remove the engine. Just let me know an it is there. However I don't want you doing something right now that really to me doesn't appear to be the problem. So let me know after you have reviewed all of this.

I would highly suggest you first, move the front tires to the rear and see how that does. If your tires are worn and been on there a while, replace them. By the way, Tire Rack is an excellent place to get your tires from.

Hello You bring up another thought, how long has the car been sitting? Also, that broke link. Depending on how long the car has sat the tires may have a flat spot or weak, or slightly separated. The back may be just as bad as the front depending on how long it sat. Tires are wild. I drive a 95 Impala SS, with Z rated tiress.150 mph +. But if the car sits on a hot day I can get a slight flat spot because they are so soft of a tire. That is a lot of weight just sitting on one spot. Look how many tires large aircraft have. If small or large aircraft are to sit for a certain length of time, they are to be towed to rotate the tires. I think you tires are the vibration myself. And remember, a re balance of a bad tire internally only means you still have a bad tire that may still not be balanced. And don't forget.A high speed balance.

As for the hard turns at low speed, well, it has been sitting. Heck, I get stiff when I sit too long. My suggestion here is get a good lube job on the front end components. Get the front end checked and aligned to include the rear end if your model requires it and a really good lube.

Drive it for a little bit and let things loosen up. The last thing I would do is that rack. Let me know what you find out.

Hello -

Glad you found the problem. I have attached the info you requested. Just a couple of notes, looks like you can use a pry bar but the note tells you to be careful not to bend the finger. Also, it tells you to always use a new stub shaft nut when installing.

Careful on the sensor. . ...they can be a bear. I have tore them up before as they almost weld to the knuckle. Some of them I have been able to use the same size socket and on the back side, tap the socket and that drives it out.

That's all I got on this. . .. . .. . .good luck.

Raise and support vehicle then remove tire and wheel assemblies.
Remove front caliper assembly and rotor from the steering knuckle as outlined in the "Disc Brakes" unit repair section.
Remove ABS speed sensor as follows:
Remove bolt retaining sensor to steering knuckle.

Slide sensor from steering knuckle. If sensor is stuck into knuckle do not use pliers on sensor body. Using a suitable punch, tap on sensor body ear to rock sensor loose from knuckle.
Remove hub and bearing to stub axle retaining nut.

Remove hub bolts, then remove hub and bearing assembly from steering knuckle by sliding it straight off end of stub axle. If metal seal on hub and bearing assembly is seized to steering knuckle and becomes dislodged on hub and bearing assembly during removal, or when removing hub and bearing, the flinger disc on hub becomes damaged, hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

If hub and bearing will not slide out of knuckle, insert a pry bar between hub and steering knuckle and gently pry hub and bearing from knuckle.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
Always use a new stub shaft nut when installing.
Tighten stub shaft nut, then lower vehicle and, with brakes applied, torque stub shaft nut to 120 ft-lbs .

Hello

Well, once you get the wagon wheels back on and it's drivable - go to Auto Zone or O'Reilly's and for free they can pull the codes to the car. Most important. Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don't get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for free also they can bring their tester out and check your battery, alternator and starter. This is most important since the car has been sitting - even though you have been driving it.

Let me know the results and we can take if from there. Glad the wheels are coming along.

Hello - akamario

When you say the steering column starts to bounce up and down, are you talking about the steering wheel level adjustment is not holding the steering wheel tight in a proper position or you can move the entire column in and out? I would suggest you check all of the connections from the steering wheel down to the rack. There may be a grease fitting where the column connects to the rack, lube it. Ensure it is secure all the way.

Inspecting the tires is good. . .. . .. . .but putting them on a high speed balance is the best thing. Even though it may have not thrown a weight that doesn't mean the tire is properly balanced since it has been sitting and even though you have been driving it. If you don't get the smooth ride you are looking for - go for the high speed spin balance.

Hello - akamario,

I have attached a pic of the mount. It is the very top item. I would make sure all the nuts/bolts are good and tight with the weight on the wheels.

Ball joints can be an issue too.

But. . ...I am still going to go back to that high speed balance on the tire thing. All 4 and then if you still have the sound move the rear to the front. You would be amazed at noises etc that tires can have/make.

My input - get all the tires/rims fixed first. You may not have a problem.