Car turns over but will not start

You might have a bad coil pack. Try testing all the spark pugs on each wire for spark. If you get spark on any of the others you might have a bad coil pack. This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

I had the same problem, come to find out it was my fuel filter,

Excellent addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

car would get to normal running temperature and then would turn off, car still turns over like it wants to crank but will not start at normal operating temperature. I changed the fuel pump but problem still exists? What else could it be

Unlike GM fuel pumps, Chrysler pumps rarely quit while they're running so that should be the last part to throw at it. The most common failure would be the camshaft position sensor. Next would be the crankshaft position sensor. Both of those can become heat-sensitive and will start to work again after they cool down.

Usually there will be a diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer. Having those codes read is the starting point.

caradiodoc

I do not have a check engine light on.

Doesn't matter. Per government mandate, the light must turn on when the detected problem, (and fault code), could adversely affect tail pipe emissions. Can't have excessive emissions if the engine doesn't run.

Specific conditions must be met to set a fault code. Those conditions usually include that certain other codes are not set in memory. Here's just one example. The Engine Computer needs a strategy to determine if the speed sensor is not working vs. the car is standing still. It knows the car is coasting by a high vacuum reading for a lengthy period of time. You can snap the throttle open real quickly. When it snaps closed, the vacuum will go very high, but just for a second or two. The only way to get the high vacuum reading for a longer period of time is by coasting. If the computer knows you're coasting, it knows you're moving so it had better be getting a reading from the speed sensor. If there is a stored fault code related to the MAP sensor, there is almost no chance it will store a code for the speed sensor.

Fault codes also have levels of severity. The lowest level codes never cause the Check Engine light to turn on. Number 17, "Engine running cold too long" is a perfect example. Every Chrysler product up north will have that code all through the winter because when started and left to idle, the engine will not get up to normal temperature within 6 minutes.

For a slightly more severe problem, the light will turn on only while the problem is occurring and it will go off when the problem goes away. The code will stay in memory. Still more severe and the light will "latch" on. Even if the problem goes away, the light will stay on until the ignition switch is cycled off and back on. Then the light will stay off until the problem occurs again.

Really severe and the light will always be on whenever the engine is running even if the problem hasn't occurred recently. In the worst case, the light will be flashing. That means "bail out"! Excessive raw fuel is entering the catalytic converter causing it to overheat. It will be permanently damaged if you don't stop the engine.

When you have a no-start condition, have the fault codes read first. If there are no related codes, use the "live sensor data" screen to view the cam and crank sensors. Aftermarket scanners usually read "yes" when pulses are being generated by that sensor. Chrysler scanners read "present" when the pulses are showing up. If you find the pulses missing from either sensor, the automatic shutdown relay won't turn on and the engine won't run.

caradiodoc

hit a deer and put hole in left head light now when it is raining car won't start or run

Is it cranking over and will not start or just won't crank at all/nothing when key is turn to cranking position?

My 1994 chylser 3.5L V6 will not start. the car has been sitting for 3 years and I've replaced the fuel pump, spark plugs and the coil pack. the car will crank and then just back fire. It will act like its trying to catch and then just keep turning then again back fire. can you tell me what I can do to fix this problem.

Okay... Have you checked to make sure the fuel pressure is within spec? Are you getting a good hot blue snapping spark? Have you checked to see if the injectors are getting power? Will the engine start with starting fluid?

Hi, my 1994 LHS won,t start. I changed the oil,10w30, It has 3/4 of gas with g/line antifreeze,Ichanged the plugs and thermostat. When the car is driven daily ,it runs.But it hasn't been started since ,Dec. 21/08. Now this same problem happened last year so I had it towed and fixed at the garage. It turns over but won't start. All Ideas are most welcome ! Thank You for your help in advance, Peter k.

Hi:
Check for spark to the plugs and fuel to the engine. One will most likely be missing. Let me know what you find.
Joe

I have a 1994 LHS w @170K miles. Engine turns over yet Will not start at all. Checked and have spark at number 1 cyl., have fuel pressure and no codes when keying several times. Replaced plugs and plug wires as plugs were worn pretty bad. Verified that cam belt is not broken as both cams spin when engine is cranked. Do you have any ideas???? May have posted earlier but typed in E-Mail address wrong. Thanks.

Start by seeing if it will run for a few seconds with starting fluid. Also listen for the hum of the fuel pump for one second after turning on the ignition switch. If it runs on starting fluid, it may be in anti-theft mode. Does your car have the factory-installed anti-theft system?

caradiodoc

Here is my question

Flipped my pdc over to have a look. Shows that the fuel pump relay socket 85 goes to pin 51 in pcm. Out of same socket 85 there is a separate wire going to socket 85 of asd.

I have constant power on socket 30 on both relays. Power to 86 with key on to both relays. Test with test light clamp on battery pos and probe to socket.

For pin 85 put test light clamp on positive and probed socker 85. With key on light turned off. I think that shows its being grounded.

Relays have been swapped both crank and cam sensors are new.

I have power at pcm on 3 and 9. Grounds a 5 11 and 12.

9 volts on orange at pcm on pin 7 as well as to both crank and cam. Ground and signal wires also are good. All wired from sensor to pcm have continuity and resistance. 03 to .09.

Same with wi red from pdc on both relays.

I jumped both relays from 30 to 87 still nothing

Took off jump to fuel relays sparked into intake leaving asd jumped. Car starred for a few seconds

Guys I'm stumped! Am I not testing something correctly?

You need to approach this in a different way to get a clearer picture of what is happening.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

I guess i needed to me more specific

full battery at 12.5 volts

no spark at all eight plugs, checked green and orange wire going from asd relay to coil. no power going to coil. checked continuity. good ohms .01

made sure pcm was getting power on pins 5 and 9 both getting 12v. then checked grounds on 5 11 12. all check out using test light to positive.

testing hall effect crank and cam

pin 7 at pcm provided 9 volts to each the crank and cam sensors. both are new. signal wire verified by cranking engine by hand. voltage .8-4.8 volts via the windows on wheel. sensor ground .08 mv. good on both cam and crank.

tested both relays

continuity from 30 to 87a, 85 and 86 coil side 76 ohms. applied voltage to relay on 85 and 86 coil energized armature closed on both asd and fuel pump relay.

relay socket testing
you probably have them as abcd i have them as pin numbers. constant power on pins 30. switched power on 86 with key on. both. 85 put test light on pos to battery probed 85 socket. with key on it lit then shut off.

jumped sockets 30 to 87 on asd relay. got power to coil.
jumped sockets 30 to 87 on fuel pump got power to pump
still crank no start.

unplugged fuel pump sprayed starting fluid into intake. with asd jumped car started for a few second.

as stated before. i want to know if a bad fuel pump would cause the no power to coil because the asd and fuel pump share the same driver pin 51 on pcm.

If you want me to help, we have to do this my way.

Do you have injector pulse?

If not, do you have power supply to one side during the first 2 seconds of key on and when cranking?

I Have a 1994 Chrysler LHS with a 3.5 liter engine that occasionally gets driven, it ran great when I parked it and when I went to drive it again it wouldn't start, its not the fuel pump because I get good pressure and you can hear it go on in the tank when I turn he key, its not the coil pack because I changed that out although when I check for the spark I get a very very light, almost indistinguishable spark. its also not the timing belt for that was recently replaced,.. I sprayed a little starting fluid into the air intake and the engine wanted/almost started,. I then checked the injectors for pulses with a test light when I cranked the engine and got no pulsing light... I believe its the ECM module however is there anything else it could be besides this expensive part that I have not checked...or something else that I have not thought of or could check..? .... thank you very much in advance for you time and considerations..

Change the crankshaft position sensor. that also can be the cause for not starting

Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Chrysler LHS 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic
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Hello,
I have a 1994 Chrysler LHS and when I turn the key to accessory I have lights everywhere but when I turn the key to start the engine I get nothing. No clicking or anything.

i would check all connections to the battery,starter.is the battery fully charged.after that try the ignition relay fuse.under the black panel under the hood.under the cover of the panel the fuses and relays are marked.just hold your finger on the ignition relay and have someone turn the key to the on position.you should feel it clicking under your finger.i would try that first .is there any dash lights ,if dash lights have the neutral safety switch checked or the optional car alarm if it came equipped.

I recently put a new water pump in my car and when we changed it we had to take the timing belt off and now we dont know how to reset the timing so the car wont start now. How do I reset the timing so I can start my car?

you have to align the timing marks on the timing belt sprockets top dead center or tdc

How you set the timing on the 3.5L,first make sure the crank at the bottom is pointing arrow to arrow,then at the top your cam dots have to be (between) the 2 little dots, on the timing housing on each side after the belt and everything is tightened up.Sometimes if it is not done right and after u tighten up everything like the timing belt and stuff the dots will be aligned with each other and (that is not right).So if you align the dots up to the one on the right hand side with each other, then tighten the belt up assuming you have all the slack worked out of the belt.Then after its tightened they should be in between the 2 little dots on the timing housing,but sometimes this can be aggravating.I just got done rebuilding my engine is the reason I know this.