Chevy surburban making ticking noise and engine vibrating

DAMON39491

MEMBER
2010 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
5.3L
V8
4WD
AUTOMATIC
143,000 MILES

When I start my truck I hear and ticking noise and it does NOT go away after it warms up or it does not go away at all. When I accelerate the ticking noise gets faster and when im driving I hear the ticking noise, the noise gets so fast what you cant hear it anymore, its like tick tick tick tick and when I accelerate it gets faster and sounds less noisy. The ticking noise it coming under the engine, near the oil pan, this noise just started happening. It is not an exhaust leak. Also my engine vibrates a lot in idle and even when im stopped at a stop light, in neutral, park it does not vibrate when im driving. When I open the hood I see the engine shaking. There is no engine light. When my rpm is 500-700 it vibrates after that it does not. I got the throttle body cleaned and checked. When im in idle I see the rpm going to up and down like it goes to 500 rpm and then 550 rpm I see the oil pressure gauge moving also when the rpm goes up and down. I dont know whats going on. The truck drives very good, but when im in idle I get engine vibration and a ticking sound. Thank you so much for your help!

5 Replies

ENGINE JOE 26

MECHANIC
19 POSTS

Does this resemble a metallic ticking? Does it sound light and faint? Or deep and heavy? If you say it sounds like it is coming from the oil pan area, that is usually indicative of a rod knock, if it sounds like it is coming from the middle of the engine and gets louder on acceleration, that is indicative of piston pin play, the difference is a rod knock usually will result in catastrophic failure very quickly, where as a piston pin can keep going indefinitely, if you change your oil to a heavier viscosity and notice an immediate difference in the sound you will know it is an internal mechanical noise, sometimes with wrist pin noise increasing the oil viscosity will virtually eliminate the noise, and at 143000 miles it isn't a bad idea to do anyway, if you were running 5w30, per se than increase to 10w40. If it is a rod, you will notice it gradually get louder before it fails. Ticking can also come from the valvetrain, a stuck lifter can also cause the engine to idle poorly, but you really want to be able to decipher where the sound is coming from, if you have a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver you can touch it to the suspected area (engine running) and put your ear to it with your earlobe closed and you will be able to hear if it is a metallic sound and where it is coming from.

These engine had a problem with the valve train not oiling the camshaft lifters which takes them out BTW.

SPONSORED LINKS

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

No

+2

Tuesday, May 19th, 2015 AT 3:57 PM

DAMON39491

MEMBER
2 POSTS

The sound gets loud when in idle. When I drive the truck the sound gets very fast and you cant hear it. How long do you think this truck would last? With this problem

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

No

Tuesday, May 19th, 2015 AT 4:08 PM

ENGINE JOE 26

MECHANIC
19 POSTS

Change the oil, If you see metal fragments you are likely looking at a rod bearing, if it is totally clean, the problem is likely elsewhere, there is no telling for sure without hearing it myself. But if it is a rod it could go at anytime, if not, than the tick is a result of some other less serious mechanical contact.

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

No

Tuesday, May 19th, 2015 AT 4:41 PM

PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO

MECHANIC
1,853 POSTS

I believe it's a spark plug wire shorting out and arcing causing both the ticking noise and the misfire/shaking of the engine. Look for the arc at nite time when it's dark outside and it will be easier to spot.

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

No

-1

Monday, September 14th, 2015 AT 3:25 PM

OMARMAJD

MEMBER
6 POSTS

I had that last month When the oil gets light the oil valves starts ticking loud and the sound goes faster when you go faster Change the engine oil and the sound should be gone. I had a shop fix it they had to install a camshaft and lifters cost me $1200.00 all fixed.