Engine shut off while driving, weak spark

Tiny
SC4RAM
  • MEMBER
  • 1982 CHEVROLET 3500
  • 7.4L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
I have the vehicle listed above 454 HEI. About a year ago it wouldn't start. Via my ignorance, I checked for spark with a Harbor Freight spark light tester, it lit up indicating it had spark, still no start. After reading much I learned the correct tester is a HEI spark gap tester (which the ignition would not fire). I replaced the coil and HEI spark was restored and the engine ran fine. Unfortunately recently, I was rolling down the road, and the engine sputtered and shut off, not to start again. I replaced the coil while on the side of the road still no start. I have the same test results as above (weak spark on the coil output via a spark light tester, no spark via a spark gap tester), I have 12V on the battery input to distributor (which dips to ~10V while cranking), a trouble light placed between the battery and tachometer inputs to the distributor blinks as expected during cranking. All wires are connected to the coil (including the external ground from the ignition module). Since I've tested for HEI spark back to the secondary of the coil (and I don't have any), the only thing left that I can think of that would cause this is a ground failure. Any other suggestions?
Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 8:53 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

I would suspect the module and the pick up coil in the distributor itself. They were very common failures for this issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Roy

1. Disconnect wiring harness connector at side of distributor cap and remove distributor cap.
2. Remove rotor and disconnect wires from module terminals.
3. Remove two mounting screws and remove module, Fig. 13. Two types of H.E.I. wiring harness are used, Fig. 14. The second type is a wiring harness, connector and capacitor which is serviced as an assembly.
4. Reverse procedure to install. Prior to installation, coat bottom of new module with dielectric grease (furnished with new module) to aid in heat transfer into distributor housing. Failure to apply grease will cause excessive heat at module and premature module failure.
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Thursday, March 11th, 2021 AT 3:17 AM
Tiny
SC4RAM
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Thank you, you may be correct, however I would question that the module or the pick-up are bad if I'm getting signal (blinking trouble light) to the coil primary (as well as 12V DC)? Before I go to extremes like removing the module and or the pick-up, I have ordered a mini-oscilloscope , I'm thinking of actually looking at the module output waveform to verify if the module/pick-up are outputting properly?
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Thursday, March 11th, 2021 AT 7:24 AM
Tiny
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You can do that.

The primary should have constant 12 volts. The secondary will be the pulse for spark. That is controlled by the pickup coil and module.

Roy
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Thursday, March 11th, 2021 AT 7:48 AM
Tiny
SC4RAM
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Btw, the module was the problem (even though it appeared to have signal to the coil, would flash the test light, and even run a hand held tachometer.) Replaced it and got full HEI spark. You can see old (failed) module output during cranking in the first pic, vs new module output during cranking in the 2nd pic. Thanks
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Friday, April 16th, 2021 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
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You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Saturday, April 17th, 2021 AT 1:43 AM

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