No Spark?

Did you check primary voltage at the coil, pink wire, goes hot with key on.

This guide will help https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system Please run down this guide and report back.

Hello,

In my past experiences with this problem it has been the ESC(Eletronic Spark Control) Module. It is usually located in the engine compartment in the center mounted on the firewall.

Just installed new crate engine after truck sat for 1 year. Replaced ignition coil and had ignition module checked(ok). P/U coil is about 3 years old and still looks new. Also new is dist.cap, oil press sending unit, plugs and plug wires. Varified TDC and not setting off any codes, cleaned all grounds. Engine is turning over strong but no spark. Anything outside the distributor that would not allow spark?

Hi markrlr300,Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Do you have power to the coil if so check the pick-up coil resistances should read 500-1500 ohms and also check it for short to ground-also check wiring connectors on distributor and on the coil

I hooked volt meter to plug wire on ignition coil and got 12 volts when ignition turned on. I then hooked meter to center plug wire on distributor cap( with ignition coil hooked up) and got the same, but nothing going to spark plugs. To check ohms on p/u coil, do I need to unhook it from ig. module 1st? Also, the ignition module is showing 11 volts at pos. terminal and about the same at C terminal[quote:62e3058917="rasmataz"]Hi markrlr300,Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Do you have power to the coil if so check the pick-up coil resistances should read 500-1500 ohms and also check it for short to ground-also check wiring connectors on distributor and on the coil[/quote:62e3058917]

Disconnect the pick-up coil and then measure the resistances on it-500-1500ohms out of range replace it-

I have a 1987 s-10 2.8 liter with no spark and no fuel in the TBI. I do have good pressure to the throtle body. When I crank it over I see no fuel.If I put a spark plug on the coil wire and turn on the ignition I see a spark, but not at the end of the plug wires.

How long since a tune-up? Replace distributor cap and rotor. Plugs and plug wires, ok? Without rpm signal, no injector pulse. It is possible to have spark at plugs during cranking, even if the computer doesn't see an rpm signal, but, without that signal, no injector pulse. Any applicable trouble codes?

86 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer 4x4 2.5L Manual 150k
Engine was rebuilt 3yrs ago. My Blazer died out on the interstate and a brief on the side of the road inspection revealed that I was not getting any spark what so ever. Fuel delivery is fine, engine rotates, the whole nine yards. I am stumped as to why it has no spark now. I have yet to replace any components till I can at least narrow the problem down. Computer, coil, wiring, or ignition module in the distributor.

are both cam and crank turning? Take distributor cap off and check for rotation while cranking. Then check coil.

I replaced everything in my ignition system from the ignition control mod, hall effect switch, coil, plug wires, and plugs as they were all bad, weak (wires) or fouled out. Still no spark. I finally broke out the trusty Haynes manual and looked at the engine ignition wiring diagram. After running down all the wires, I found the problem. A bad ground that is for the fuel pump relay. It had broke off the mount to the block and was resting against the grounding strap for the block. A quick fix and reattachment to the block and I am back on the road.

It was running and starting up yesterday, I recently changed out spark plugs/wires. So I ran all test to check for spark and nothing. Then I figured the coil was bad. I ran test on it and no spark so I replaced the coil and still no spark......Can anyone please help me or might have another idea of what it might be?

Thanks for the comments and help.

see pics for diagnosis

disregard my first reply I looked at wrong year this is correct see pics also check all fuses as well.

Okay, thank you and I'm not to tech on cars just normal base just replacing genral parts. I will show diagram to my buddy that has more technology then me..

My truck will crank but it doesn't start. I already changed the distributor cap, ignition coil, rotor, pick-up coil, control module and spark plug cables; still no spark out of coil. Before you tell me, I KNOW this isn't what I was supposed to do. I should have used an elimination process, but I was desperate, and in a hurry. I found out the ECC had been removed (thank goodnes, cause I think I would've replaced that as well, LOL)

After giving up, I took things slowly and started "testing" the electric cables, that's when I found out that the cable coming from the coil's primary resistance didn't have any energy. When I hooked the tester to the positive on the Bat, and tested this cable, it didn't light up. The other (secondary) is fine.
But here is my main problem: When I followed this cable (the one from the primary. It's white and very thin) it ended at a plug, which of course I don't know where it goes and this cable only measures around 24". So I'm GUESSING it could've been plugged to some kind of Resistor...because it's too short to reach the ignition switch. Well I can't find a resistor ballast, nor another cable coming from the ignition switch that would join it.
I don't know what a calibrated resistance wire looks like, but I'm betting it's a lot thicker than this white thin one.

Any ideas? Suggestions? Should I go and buy a resistor ballast and plug the white primary cable to it? If so, What exactly do I do? Would I need one coming from the resistor INTO the Ignition switch? Any other things I should do before this? Please, I'm desperate.

Thanks in advance. And please don't be hard on me about all the replacing I did!

Angie.

ps. BTW The only wire I can see coming from the ignition switch is a yellow and a purple one...one going to the solenoid and the other to the clutch switch. According to the repair manual, there should be a pink one going to the Ignition coil. Of course I can't find any.

I first need to know what kind of S-10 is it a pickup or blazer? Have you checked ignition fuse number 5? It should be next to the horn fuse and it should be a 20 amp. Also check fuse 9 should be 15 amp and fuse number 10 should be 10 amp. Get back to me with what you find and the needed info so I can look over the wiring diagram and see what we can't do to get this thing running again.

Hi,
Thanks for answering.
It's an '85 Chevy Pick-up 4wd. V6/2.8L
About the fuses, they were one of the first things my husband checked and he said they were O.K. I'll do a recheck this afternoon after I get back from work, and get back to you.

Also, as I mentioned before, the cable from the coil's primary winding is unplugged and I can't find where to put it.
The wiring diagram I'm using in my repair manual is also on Autozone's website.

Thanks again,

Angie

O.K. I rechecked the fuses and they're all fine. But coming from the ignition switch there's a bunch of cables, so I have no idea which one was the one that joined the coil's primary winding's cable....so that's where I am, and that's the problem right now.
Any suggestions on how to find it??? I'm at my wit's end!

Hope to hear from you soon.

Angie.

I found out that the cable coming from the ignition switch to the coil is the pink one (and it also says so in the repair manual) now the problem is that once this cables comes out into the engine, I think it changes color or something because I can't find it. I figured it goes thru some kind of spliter or box and then they plug another colored wire from then on. Is there any test I can do to figure out which is which? 'Cause I don't think pulling it to see if it moves out side would work, right?

Sorry for so many questions, but I do appreciate any help I can get.

Angie.

The wiring to the coil should be one pink wire and two white wires at the coil. Is this true on yours? If the wires are different colors on you truck then get back to me with the actual production date on the door. Thanks.

it's exactly like that! i see the pink one coming from the ignition switch but don't know where it ends inside the engine. The white one from the coil ends in a plug and measures around 24 inches long. please get back to me soon, and thanks a bunch!

Do you have a digital multi meter? I need you to check what the voltage is at both wires at the coil with the key on engine off. Let me kwow what you find and we will go from there.

Hi,

Sorry I had not gotten back to you earlier. It turns out that the new ignition module I had just bought was bad, so when I replaced it, it started up perfectly ;)
So I appreciate your help anyway, but I solved my issues for now.

Again, thank you very, very much.

Angie.

Thanks for the date and glad to hear it runs again. If there is anything more just ask.

Electrical problem
1985 Chevy S-10 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic a lot miles

coil,ingition module,pick up coil are all good.I have 12volts at coil,but no spark!

Welcome to the forum, if the coil is separate from the cap, take coil wire loose from cap, hold close to engine ground, engine cranking, does spark jump, if so, suspect the cap or rotor. Use testlite on coil negative terminal, engine cranking, the lite should pulse.

If the coil is in the cap, use a teslite on the tach terminal, it should pulse, engine cranking. The cap and or rotor could also be an issue.