AC not working

Low AC refrig won't cause the blower motor to stop working. You need to start at the blower motor to see if it is getting power. If it is, then the motor is bad. If there is no power to it, you need to work backwards through the resister, relay, switch...

This guide should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down this guide and report back.

Iam really confused here said the pressure was zero then you said it was high when hooking the r134 up?How does that work?Also what were the high and low pressure readings at idle?Does the fan work to cool the condenser

This guide will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down this guide and report back.

Your lucky you didnt blow your hand or face off bypassing the high/low safety switch then try to charge it while the gauge was in the red. Just so know if you get enough pressure in one of those diy charge cans then can go off like a hand gernand. So please dont ever bypass a high/low safety switch ever again or any other safety device. The reason the blow off valve blew was because you bypassed the high/low safety switch and too much pressure was built. So your going to have to replace the blow off valve thats a given. But before you do that I would try to read the high and low pressures?Whats going to happening though most likely is the pressures will rise and the compressor will cycle.I need to know what the high and low pressures go up to before the ac compressor cycles?You will need a actual ac gauge set to read the pressures. Not the low side diyer low pressure gauge/charge hose. If your going to diagnose this problem yourself. Otherwise you will have to take it to a shop.

The most likely cause of an automotive air conditioner cooling problem is no refrigerant in the system. If the refrigerant has escaped past a leaky compressor or O-ring seal, leaked out of a pinhole in the evaporator or condenser, or seeped out through a leaky hose, the leak needs to be identified and repaired before the system is recharged.

On many systems, the compressor will not turn on if the refrigerant is low because the "low pressure safety switch" prevents the compressor clutch from engaging if system pressure is low. This protects the compressor from possible damage caused by a lack of lubrication.

One of the first things you should check, therefore, is compressor engagement. If the compressors magnetic clutch is not engaging when the A/C is turned on, the problem may be a blown fuse or a wiring problem. If the fuse is blown, replacing it may restore cooling temporarily. But the underlying reason for the fuse blowing in the first place needs to be identified and corrected to prevent the same thing from happening again.

If the magnetic clutch is receiving voltage but is not engaging the compressor, the clutch is defective and needs to be replaced. If there is any evidence of leakage around the compressor shaft seal, the seal should also be replaced.

If the clutch works but fails to turn the compressor (the belt may squeal in protest!), The compressor has seized and needs to be replaced.

Compressor failures are usually the result of loss of lubrication, which in turn may be due to low refrigerant in the system, a blockage (such as a plugged orifice tube which prevents refrigerant and oil from circulating to the compressor), loss of lubricant due to leaks or improper service procedures (not adding oil to the system to compensate for oil lost through leakage or component replacement), or use of the wrong type of lubricant.

R-12 systems require mineral oil while R-134a systems require various types of PAG oil or POE oil. Using mineral oil in a newer R-134a system can cause serious lubrication problems as can using the wrong grade (viscosity) of PAG oil. Always follow the vehicle or lubricant manufacturers compressor oil recommendations.

The next thing you should check when troubleshooting a no cooling problem is system pressure. For this, you need a set of A/C service gauges. Attach your service gauges to the high and low service fittings. If both the high and low side pressure gauges read low, the system is low and needs recharging. But before any refrigerant is added, check for leaks to find out where the refrigerant is going.

Hi there,

Often it is a case of low refrigerant due to a leak in the system, this will cause the low pressure switch to shut down the system, get a leak test done first.

Mark (mhpautos)

Regardless of what that "death kit" you bought states, you cannot accurately charge and AC system by pressures. The only way it can be done is to completely evacuate the system, put it under vacuum for a period and then charge it with the exact weight prescribed for that system. Only then can you look at pressures and determine anything. At this point you don't even know if the compressor is working and that is dangerous. This is something that you should bring to an AC specialist that has the equipment to charge it properly.

Iwould suggest having the cooling system pressure checked and see where the leak is coming from. Could be a water pump, intake gasket, or a head gasket

I never seen a pressure cap cause that on this type of vehicle. Usually the brown sludge wont cause it either. Have it pressure tested and let me know what you find

I have a hard time believing its both. And intake gasket and a water pump maybe. But you may have this going on. I would suggest having a second opinion done.