Changing the transmission oil high mileage

Vehicle listed above has a 4L60E transmission. Pretty high milage nearing 200,000.

Installing all new--


2- Shift Solenoids (A and B).
1- Transmission 3-2 Shift Solenoid Valve.
1- Transmission Torque Converter Clutch Pulse Width Modulation Valve.
1- Transmission Accumulator.
1- Filter and Gasket.


Had this car for 4 years and it has been good enough but after a 300-mile road trip (all freeway). And 3 days later transmission lines sprung a leak after that; the transmission was only shifting to first and second and nothing above second gear or reverse. I luckily Googled the symptoms, and it is bad shift solenoids. I saw how easy my model transmission is to repair the solenoid repair. So, I took out some tools and purchased all the parts on Amazon (I'm 66 year old sick and crippled and live alone) so happily I have Amazon prime, and parts show up the next day.


The job took me 3 hours to remove the oil pan off and clean everything and it was clearly it has Never been serviced. Gunk and oil were black and syrupy. And the magnet had 3/8-inch-thick gunk.


This brings me to my dilemma: after removing the old filter that darn plastic bushing is cemented in the valve body. I just ordered a seal removed designed for this kind of deep seal.

Question. If I use a heat gun to heat the plastic seal, will it be easier to remove while not scratching the metals?

Question 2. I need ("the exact torque") for the 3 accumulator bolts and all of the oil pan bolts (in ft pounds please) my wrench starts at 10 lbs standard.

Question 3. The pan and all the mating surfaces are nearly pristine, and the pan and gasket came right off with almost zero scraping. I'm generally opposed to using sealant glues if it's not absolutely necessary. I wonder if I should use some or not.

I am amazed how simple the whole thing is to fix. The YouTube videos are very helpful. But I haven't done this kind of work on my own cars in 15 years; So, I'm somewhat insecure.