Not cranking over?

Hello,

Thanks for the video they really help, it sounds like the battery is having a problem. Can you do a load test.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

So about a week ago I noticed my car leaking coolant. Took it to the mechanic, and he said I needed a "rear pipeline cord". After days of searching and finding nothing, I went back. He called around and informed me I had to order it from the dealership. My brother in law, cut the rotted piece of pipe, connected a hose and clamped it, so I could make until the part came in the mail. Upon driving it, it began overheating so I stopped and added coolant. Only to realize it was leaking still from the bottom of the van. So I pulled over. I waited a few hours and drove it home. The part came today and my mechanic is only 3 blocks away, so I thought I could make it to him. But when I tried to start it, it wouldn't start. No coolant leaking under the hood. It did not make any noise when I tried to start it, the radio came on and the dash lights but absolutely nothing else.

Hello,

Okay, so let's start with a few electrical things here. In the diagrams down below I have included a wiring diagram of your vehicle's starting circuit for reference. Can you please check the "start" fuse (7.5A) in the Instrument Panel Module (IPM) which is located behind the left of the dash. Here is a link for you to go to below if you don't know how to check a fuse:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

I have also included a diagram and callout for the IPM in the diagrams down below for you. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out. We will go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

So I realized my gear shift thing, (the thing that goes from park to drive and stuff) was stuck. So when this guy inspected it, he saw it was not fully in park and that was why it wouldn't start. Turns out my "gear shift cable" was rusty and had gotten stuck somehow under the battery. A little oil and cleaning and my car was slid into park and started right up. Thank you so much though.

Hello,

We would have got to the neutral safety switch eventually. It is a process of elimination with these type of failures. I'm happy to hear that your vehicle is up and running again. That's what it's all about.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Thank you. You guys are such a blessing. I am 100% positive you would have gotten the right answer. It's a process online without being able to see it. I get that. But it is so wonderful to know you guys are here. Thank you.

SCWICKEDSTANG is one of our best! Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

Our van won't start. you turn the key and it won't do anything. the lights and car radio still work fine. Any idea what it could be? We have tried unlocking and locking the doors to see if that will help. Tried pulling the starter relay out and putting it back in. nothing seems to work.

Have tried a jump start?

yes, and nothing. just a clicking sound when you turn the key

Suspect faulty starter solenoid

Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Kia Sedona 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

The van will not crank. Has has good battery and fuel. Diagnostic said C shaft possioning sensor. My question is where is the located and how should it be repaired

crankshaft or camshaft sensor? crank sensor is next to the crankshaft sprocket and cam sensor is at the front of engine

The van does not start occationally. The check engine light comes on. If the vehicle is moved (rolled) it will crank. The Auto Parts store did a Diagnostic on it and said it was the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor.
Is it hard to repair? Do you have to pull the motor or transmission to get to it? What is the normal repair cost on this?

I was at a stop light and my Kia stalled and also it wont turn over. I had alternator tested, checked out good.

How could they test the generator if the engine didn't crank and run? Start by measuring the battery voltage. It must be 12.6 volts. If you find around 12.2 volts it is good but discharged. If it's closer to 11 volts it has a shorted cell and must be replaced. Charge the battery at a slow rate for an hour, then start the engine to continue. Measure the battery voltage again with the engine running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is low, diagnose the entire charging system. The generator is just one part of that.

After the van not wanting to accelerate over 50mph, we have had the fuel pump and filter replaced, the map sensor, spark plugs, wires, and various other parts replaced. The battery is good, the alternator and starter are fine, and the timing belt is good. We have put 5 gallons of fresh gas in and it still will not crank. Any suggestions on what to do next?

Lets do below for a start to determine if its fuel or spark related issue and get back with some results

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Engine Performance problem
2002 Kia Sedona 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

My Kia stopped running. I put a cam shaft sensor on because it had a crack in it.It ran good all afternoon. I cranked it up and it cut back off and now it want crank again.Do you have any suggestions for me to check? I tested the crank sensor and it was working before I checked the cam shaft sensor. Could the fuel filter have anything to do with this problem?

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it