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Car stalled at idle, P0326 fault code

Tiny
FLORENTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 KIA SOUL
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
The was an intermittent check engine light but the car seemed to run fine. The engine started sounding noisier (ticking and sounding more like a diesel engine). Then after sitting and idling for a few minutes one day it stalled and would not start again. The engine turns over and I can see the camshaft rotating when I turn over the engine and look through the oil cap. The timing chain hasn't been changed, to my knowledge, so it is likely rather old at this point.


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Sunday, October 18th, 2020 AT 6:59 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Hi,

In most cases, the chain will last the life of the engine. But this does have a lot of miles on it. Does it sound any different now when you crank it to start? For example, does the engine sound like it's spinning faster? If possible, record it cranking so I can hear it. In most cases, I can tell if it jumped timing.

The code you had was related to the knock sensor. The sensor, based on engine vibration, fine tunes ignition timing. Since you said it got louder, it may have something to do with this. However, if timing has jumped, the sensor wouldn't be able to compensate for that issue.

What I suggest is this: First, record the engine cranking for me to hear. Next, check to see if the engine is still getting spark and fuel. Here is a link that will help you with a crank no start condition. It will cover both things I mentioned.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Once I hear it, I may recommend doing a compression check which will tell us if timing is an issue. Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Now if the engine is a single overhead cam engine (SOHC) we are safe. If it is a dual overhead cam (DOHC) and the timing has jumped, that is a concern. The DOHC engine is an interference engine which may indicate that internal damage was done.

We'll take it one step at a time. Let me know what you find with the things I suggested and possibly upload the engine cranking for me to hear.

Take care,
Joe
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Sunday, October 18th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM
Tiny
FLORENTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Hello Joe,

It is an DOHC interference engine, unfortunately (g4fd engine). I did check (and change) the spark plugs before asking my question and they looked fairly dirty but dry. I will check compression and see if I can see a spark tomorrow (don't have a compression test tool yet).

I sprayed some starter into the intake hose just downstream of the air filter and it didn't sound any different or start.

I've attached a video of cranking the engine and how it sounds.

Thanks for your help!
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Monday, October 19th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Okay, it doesn't sound like a timing issue. Let me know what you find with spark to the plugs. Don't worry about compression at this point. I don't think it has been affected, which is a good thing.

Since it didn't start with starting fluid, I suspect there is no spark. Here is a link that you might find helpful.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

I will watch for your reply. If we find there is both fuel and spark to the engine, then we'll check compression.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, October 19th, 2020 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
FLORENTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I removed the spark plug and, with it still plugged into the ignition coil, turned the engine over while looking for spark. I saw no spark.
I repeated the test with the voltmeter connected as in the video and saw no voltage while cranking engine.

I also noticed some puffs of vapor coming from the spark plug hole during cranking the engine in my first test (I didn't remove the fuse for the fuel pump), further indicating that there is no problem with fuel.
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Tuesday, October 20th, 2020 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Hi,

If there is no spark, do me a favor. If you have a live data scan tool, see if there is an RPM signal. If there isn't, chances are the crank sensor is bad.

I attached a pic of the sensor, make sure nothing is damaged or disconnected.

Joe
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Tuesday, October 20th, 2020 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
FLORENTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
My live scan tool doesn't display the RPM data, unfortunately, but I can see the tachometer functioning as normal when I crank the engine. I haven't been able to verify this but I expect a failed crankshaft sensor would mean the tachometer doesn't work. I tested both camshaft sensors with a voltmeter and they show normal operation. I haven't tested the crankshaft sensor in that manner yet.

I found a blown 15A ignition coil fuse in the driver fuse box. I replaced it and the car started and ran for a few minutes before I thought I'd try driving it around the block. It stalled again while accelerating after my first stop sign. The fuse was blown again, and subsequent replacements of the fuse were immediately blown.

I can upload a video of the car running after the first fuse replacement. It didn't sound abnormal to me in any obvious way. I'm not sure if it was any less noisy than it had been before this problem initially showed up.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 12:14 PM
Tiny
FLORENTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I forgot to mention, I also did the compression test and read 120 psi on the first two cylinders. I didn't check the others.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 2:16 PM
Tiny
FLORENTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
It turns out the car has an aftermarket starter, which taps into the wiring under the steering wheel. It's quite complex and it seems like a portion of it was connected in the same circuit as the ignition coils.

I unplugged all the connectors (there were seriously like 50+ wire inputs, some power, some signal) from the aftermarket starter and the car didn't start but didn't blow the ignition coil fuse either. This supports my theory that a portion of the aftermarket remote starter is in-line with the ignition coil circuit.

After cleaning a small amount of corrosion off of one small connector I plugged the aftermarket remote starter back in. Either I jiggled the wiring harness just right and it's not shorting out or the corrosion in the connector was the issue.

The car started again and idled/revved a bit without stalling. I will post a final update after trying to drive the car around the block again.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 6:03 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Hi,

It sounds like we simply have a short. See the attached pic. It shows how the fuse you are referring to powers the coils. So, if it blows right away, disconnect the coils and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, the short is between the fuse and the coils. If it doesn't blow, plug one in at a time to see which one blows the fuse.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 6:13 PM

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