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Car cuts off

Tiny
JUDYLYNNWATTS
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HYUNDAI XG350
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 188,891 MILES
It started with drained battery, could wiggle the positive around and it would start randomly cut off but would start back up. Replaced battery next it shut would shut off while driving would not start back up and next day go back to get the car and it cranks and drives good. Replaced fuel pump does same thing. Replace fuel filter and I put on computer and it says fuel pump stuck. So I replace fuel pump relay/ECU. Drives good for three days does the same thing again. I changed ignition switch two days later same thing. Checked on computer again says MAF so I change that. Now you cannot drive it but maybe a mile and it shuts off and will not crank. Please help I am at my last straw. I cannot afford to keep playing guessing games.
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Sunday, May 27th, 2018 AT 9:55 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
If you are able to move the terminal around still, then replace the terminal. AutoZone sells new ones for about $3.00. You will have to cut the old one off with a utility knife, and then whittle some of the rubber off of the cable. Then just put the cable in the new terminal, tighten the bolts on it, and put it on the battery. When you tighten the terminal, you should not be able to move it around by hand at all. Here is a very good YouTube video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KU74feDrnAc

Let us know how that goes for you.
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Monday, May 28th, 2018 AT 5:30 AM
Tiny
JUDYLYNNWATTS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I bought new terminals and had the battery tested a cell was out. So I replaced the battery with new one and maybe a week later it started cutting off while driving, would not crank back up until next day. Drove it home replaced fuel pump cut off again. Cranked up next day drove it and it cut off again. Replaced fuel filter and it cut off. Plugged computer up to it said fuel pump stuck, so I replaced fuel pump relay drive it and it cuts off again and will not crank until next day. I replaced ignition switch, it cuts off again like before. I plug computer to it and it says MAF sensor replace that same thing. Now it is saying low circuit MAF censor and the car has started running bad and I smell the catalytic converter. When I rev up the engine I hear what sounds like a pop. Could this be the problem?
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Monday, May 28th, 2018 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,297 POSTS
I am trying to see if the problem is a positive battery cable or the fuel pump related issue. Can you please do this simple test can report back?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Also we should run the codes to see what comes up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, May 31st, 2018 AT 12:31 PM
Tiny
JUDYLYNNWATTS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Okay, I do remember when buying battery at Advance Auto they installed it and when I went to crank it seemed to hesitate and the guy said that the starter was not getting enough power. Since last post on here I have replaced the engine control module and drove it maybe twenty six miles nonstop and the engine is back doing the same puttering. When I put it in drive or reverse it acts like it wants to cut off, it actually did and took several try to get it cranked. Even when you hear the motor fan come on you can hear the engine bog down a little. I am at my wits end I have spent more money than I can afford on this but it is all that I have. Any ideals?
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Thursday, May 31st, 2018 AT 7:42 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Have you had the charging system (alternator) tested? It sounds like the voltage is dropping too much and the car is running on limited power. As it gets lower, the car shuts off. Next day it is good to go again for a little while.

You can get the alternator test done at the local AutoZone, Advance Auto, O'reilly Auto, or even PepBoys for free. I think NAPA does it too.
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Thursday, May 31st, 2018 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
JUDYLYNNWATTS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I took the ground off of the battery and the car still runs.
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Friday, June 1st, 2018 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
JUDYLYNNWATTS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
And yes I had the alternator tested.
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Friday, June 1st, 2018 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Okay, just a FYI, taking the battery cable off while the engine is running can actually burn up all kinds of things in the electrical system, up to and including the various control modules. So please do not do that anymore. ;)

Have you checked the sparks when it is running poorly? It could be that the ignition module is heating up and partially quitting, or that one or more of the coils are failing. Or even that the plug wires themselves are intermittently having sparks jump because the insulation on the wire is worn down. Yes, I have seen all of that happen on those cars.
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Friday, June 1st, 2018 AT 2:21 PM
Tiny
JUDYLYNNWATTS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thanks, I changed the plugs and wires still running poorly. It is like when I give it the gas it has no power and I hear a popping noise and almost wants to shut off when slowing down. Do you think that it could be the catalytic converter from all the unused gas going into it?
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Saturday, June 9th, 2018 AT 4:43 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,297 POSTS
This sounds like you have a head gasket blown between to cydliners or you have a broken valve spring. Let's do a compression test and then pull the valve covers it inspect the valve springs.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-valve-cover-gasket

These guides will give you an idea on what to do.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, June 9th, 2018 AT 10:21 AM
Tiny
JUDYLYNNWATTS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Okay, I have an update I replaced the plugs and wires and it still runs horrible has no power as far as acceleration and its making popping noises. When you give it the gas to hard hooked the computer up to it and it says fuel pump stuck. Reminder this is a new fuel pump, but the mechanic broke off two bolts in the housing. Would that make a difference? And I drove it to work puttering along and it shuts off again after sixteen miles and does not want to crank back. But tomorrow I will go back to this car and it will crank and I will drive it home. I have spent $600.00 in parts alone. I am at my wits end. Please help!
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Saturday, June 9th, 2018 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Exactly what code number is the computer giving? We can look it up and see what common causes could be. And if you got an aftermarket fuel pump, it could easily be defective.
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Sunday, June 10th, 2018 AT 3:55 AM
Tiny
JUDYLYNNWATTS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I took the new fuel pump back and exchanged it for another one. I have been scared to drive it for the fear of it shutting off. But the last code was fuel pump stuck that was before I changed the last one out.
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Friday, June 15th, 2018 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, but if you can get the actual code number or numbers (eg P0420 for example) then we can really help. Because there are several codes that essentially point to a fuel pump stuck on/off. Each code could indicate different things to check.
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Friday, June 15th, 2018 AT 7:03 PM

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