Turns Over-Won't Start

Hello,

This sound like it is the crankshaft angle sensor that has gone out which is common on these cars. Here are a couple of guides that will help you get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Also the fuel pump can do the same thing

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Pick your symptoms below check it and get back with some testing results

**Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

**No crank at all/nothing/nada when key is engage to starting position

Could be a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good. Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

Typically not a situation that requires reset. Does the security indicator flash at any time. Do you have scan tool or code reader capability. It is possible that there is codes in the EVO/passlock module that a code reader will not retrieve, but there may be PCM codes that it will. Check the security fuse in the I/P fuse block.
Had this vehicle recieved a jump start prior to this, and are you using the same key as before.

Check fuses under hood and try resetting security or try another key. Then scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge

Try this. Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for a minute or two. Reconnect them and see if you still have the same concern.

You're describing a couple of different things. "Grabbing" vs. "Working fine". "Going to the floor" vs. Apparently "not" going to the floor. If you needed to pump the brake pedal to run the piston out of the brake caliper after the first repair, and you ran the pedal all the way to the floor, the master cylinder is most likely damaged. Experienced professionals never push the brake pedal more than about halfway to the floor. Crud and corrosion build up in the lower halves of the two bores where the pistons don't normally travel. Pushing the brake pedal to the floor runs the lip seals over that crud and can rip them. That results in internal leakage. The brake fluid bypasses the seals so it doesn't get pushed under pressure to the wheels. There will be no external leak so you won't lose any brake fluid. Very often this shows up as a slowly-sinking brake pedal, and it may not show up for two or three days.

The fix is a rebuilt master cylinder. It won't hurt to push the brake pedal to the floor with that one. It takes about a year for that corrosion to start to build up. If this is what you find, reply back first before you replace it. I have a tip that will prevent you from having to bleed at the wheels.