How to check OBD1 codes

Tiny
TROY382438
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 BUICK PARK AVENUE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 196,000 MILES
A good car. I used to be able to read trouble codes by turning the ignition key on, off, on, off, then on in accessory position. Trouble codes were relayed to me.

Can I view trouble codes from my Park Avenue in a similar manner? How do I decipher the "codes" as I might see them?

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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 1:02 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi:
On the 92, you need to go through the OBD1 connector. Here is what it looks like:


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249084_codes_1.jpg



When you find the adapter connector, use a jumper wire (see red wire above) and connect terminals A and B. Next turn your key on but don't start.the check engine light will begin to flash.

EXAMPLE: CODE 12: one long flash and two short flashesCODE 13: one long flash and 3 short flashes.

Note: code 12 is usually the first code you get and just ignore it.

Here is a list of common codes. It's long!

GM common codes for OBD1 (for vehicles made before 1995)
12 System normal
13 oxygen sensor circuit open
14 coolant sensor high resistance or shorted
15 coolant sensor circuit low or open
16 direct ignition system (DIS) fault in circuit
17 cam position sensor fault
18 crank or cam sensor error
19 crank sensor circuit fault
21 tps sensor out of range
22 tps sensor signal voltage low
23 intake air temp sensor out of range, low
24 vehicle speed (vss) sensor circuit fault
25 air temp sensor sensor out of range, high
26 quad-driver module (computer) circuit #1 fault
27 quad-driver module (computer) 2nd gear circuit
28 quad-driver module (computer) circuit #2 fault
29 quad driver module (computer) 4th gear circuit
31 cam position sensor fault
32 egr circuit fault
33 map sensor signal out of range, high
34 map sensor signal out of range, low
35 idle air control sensor circuit fault
36 ignition system circuit error
38 brake input circuit fault
39 clutch input circuit fault
41 cam sensor circuit fault, igntion control circuit fault
42 electronic spark timing (EST) circuit grounded
43 knock sensor
or electronic spark control circuit fault
44 oxygen sensor lean exhaust
45 oxygen sensor rich exhaust
46 pass-key II circuit or ps.pressure switch circuit fault
47 pcm-bcm data circuit
48 misfire diagnosis
51 calibration error, mem-cal, ecm or eeprom failure
52 engine oil temperature circuit, low temperature indicated
53 battery voltage error or egr or pass-key II circuit
54 egr system failure or fuel pump circuit low voltage
55 a/d converter error or pcm not grounded or lean fuel or frounded reference voltage
56 quad-driver module #2 circuit
57 boost control problem
58 vehicle anti-theft system fuel enable circuit
61 a/c system performance or degraded oxygen sensor signal
62 engine oil temperature high temperature indicated
63 oxygen sensor right side circuit open or map sensor out of range
64 oxygen sensor right side lean exhaust indicated
65 oxygen sensor right side rich exhaust indicated
66 a/c pressure sensor circuit low pressure
67 a/c pressure sensor circuit or a/c clutch circuit failure
68 a/c compressor relay circuit failure
69 a/c clutch circuit head pressure high
70 a/c refrigerant pressure circuit high
71 a/c evaporator temperature sensor circuit low
72 gear selector switch circuit
73 a/c evaporator temperature circuit high
75 digital egr #1 solenoid error
76 digital egr #2 solenoid error
77 digital egr #3 solenoid error
79 vehicle speed sensor (vss) circuit signal high
80 vehicle speed sensor (vss) circuit signal low
81 brake input circuit fault
82 ignition control (IC) 3X signal error
85 prom error
86 analog/digital ecm error
87 eeprom error
99 power management

Let me know if this helps. Also, the connector us usually located under the dash on the driver's side, near your right knee.

Joe
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Monday, February 16th, 2009 AT 4:58 PM
Tiny
VLADIMIR POTACHENKO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I believe most of these problems are related to bad ground wires.
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 11:46 AM
Tiny
ANDY6686
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1991 BUICK PARK AVENUE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 202,000 MILES
Have 91 buick park avenue. Security system started going off one day then the car wouldnt start. Woud turn the key and nothing would happen power would just cut no noise engine didnt turn over nothing. As long as I wasnt starting the key radio air ext. Would work. Found that one of the two little white wires runing from the security module to the key and tumbler was broken. Spliced it with a butt connecter. Now when I turn the key its clicking at the starter like the starter is bad. Have plenty of power to the starter and just had the starter tested at several different auto parts stores and they all said it was fine. Do you nknow what it could be?
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
Did you bypass the ignition cylinder or just repair the broken wire?
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDY6686
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I spliced the broken wire.
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
Now what you can do is unplug the orange sheethed wires at base of column where the 2 little white wires are in and use a ohm meter across it with the key inserted in the ignition and see if it reads the resistance of the key, you can check the key resistor by placing leads of ohm meter on either side of key pellet andread resistance. Get back to me.
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDY6686
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I read the resistance of the key. Then unplugged the little white wires. Then I tested for resistance without the key and there was nothing. Then I put the key in and sure enough it read the same resistance as the key when I tested it directly. So it appears that I am getting the correct ohms to the security module. What could it be? I tested the ignition module(ignition coil) Tested the alternator, tested the starter, replaced the ignition switchand im getting plenty of power down to my starter When I turn the key and connect the posts. Its just naking a clicking sound from the starter and I can see the starter move a little. I looked at the flywheel no wear the thing even looked shiny. This car was owned by an older lady and was garaged all its life She even had charts that marked all the oil changes and checkups. The car ran exceptionally well untill the security system randomly went off one day. Then it stopped and the car drove fine for a couple of days. Then it went off again I went inside untill it quit and when I came out to start it was just nothing the power would cut completely. Will gladly make a donation if you can help me figure this out.
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
Does this system have or did it have a aftermarket alarm? Do you see any red led lights somebody installed? Is there a push button or a toggle switch located under dash? What happens if you jump the starter motor, will it turn over?
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDY6686
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Talked to the two previous owners and none of them had an after market security system installed. There are no red led lights or toggle switches or push button anywhere that I can see. Removed the whole dash every thing looking for one.I though that maybe there was something after market on it too. When I jump start the vehicle it does the same. First nothing at all then after I spliced the wire the clicking at the starter. I also have put two brandnew batteries in the car.
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
Ok back to the beginning. Remove the engine serp belt so we can eliminate a seized alternator or ac compressor. Then check power at the starter (small purple wire) see if it lights when in crank position. If it lights either its the starter or a seized engine. Get bak to me
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOORE28
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Hello,

I am having the same issue with a Buick Park Avenue 1999 model. It has been to 2 different shops and now it has been at the dealer for 2 weeks. I have had just about everything new put in $1600 worth of work after they have said these things were the problem, the air comp, ignition, cracked maniford, spark plugs, etc. And the list goes on and on, I demanded my $ back. At first the couldnt get the car to stop/die on them with it hooked up, now it finally has and they still have no awnsers, Is there some specific wiring of the security system they should look at?
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
VLADIMIR POTACHENKO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
TCM has a chip in it that goes bad, I have the same problem, 91 PA keeps dying on the road. I am getting only one code, open circuit in o2 sensor, but that wouldn't shut it completely down. Will restart, but I gotta disconnect positive battery cable from battery.
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
When the engine shuts down does the security light flash when you try to restart it?
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
VLADIMIR POTACHENKO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The wires that go to the PCM have been compromised, there is Crank sensor, cam sensor, o2 sensor that all go to one side of PCM, I only get one code and it is Open Circuit 02 sensor. The use the same ground. Gotta be a bad ground. I will test this and let you know what I find. An open circuit will work for a little while, then it shuts down the source eventually.
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 4:03 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Sounds good. here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 11:00 AM
Tiny
VLADIMIR POTACHENKO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hi Ken, do you know the tubes that cover the spark plugs? I took them off and ran the car at night, I caught spark jumping to the head, it was a hairline crack in the insulation of a plug and it caused a bad signal from ignition module to PCM, in turn shutting the engine down. How'd the plug get a heat crack in it? The tubes are not needed, it will overheat a plug and crack the insulation, problem solved. Yep. Cracked sparkler. Wow.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:59 PM

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