Brakes get hot I have a loud squeaking noise

Hi,

Replacing brakes and rotors isn't too hard of a job. You can expect them to last approx 25,000 miles, but that is based on driving habits and terrain.

First, here is a link that explains in general how it's done. You can use this link as a guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

Be careful not to damage the hub bolts when removing the front wheel & tire.
Loosen the guide rod bolt (B) and then remove the caliper body (A).
Tightening torque :
21.6 - 31.4 N m (2.2 - 3.2 kgf m, 15.9 - 23.1 lb ft)

Remove the pad return spring (A) and then remove the brake pad.

Loosen the brake hose bolts (A) and then disconnect the hose.
Tightening torque:
Brake hose to caliper (A) :
24.5 - 29.4 N m (2.5 - 3.0 kgf m, 18.1 - 21.7 lb ft)
Caliper assembly to knuckle (B):
78.5 - 98.1 N m (8.0 - 10.0 kgf m, 57.9 - 72.3 lb ft)

Loosen the screw and then remove the disc.

Replacement
Remove the wheel & tire.
Tightening torque :
88.3 - 107.9 N m (9.0 - 11.0 kgf m, 65.1 - 79.6 lb ft)

Be careful not to damage the hub bolts when removing the front wheel & tire.
Loosen the Guide rod bolt (B) and then remove the caliper body (A).
Tightening torque:
21.6 - 31.4 N m (2.2 - 3.2 kgf m, 15.9 - 23.1 lb ft)

Remove the pad return spring (A) and then remove the brake pad.

Replace the return spring (A), pad retainer (B), inner brake shim (C), and brake pad (D) all at the same time when replacing the brake pad.

Using the SST (09581-2T100), install the brake caliper assembly.
Tightening torque:
21.6 - 31.4 N m (2.2 - 3.2 kgf m, 15.9 - 23.1 lb ft)

Do not hammer on the piston or pry directly against piston face using a screwdriver to push in piston.
How to use the SST (09581-2T100)
Connect an air hose (B) to the SST after confirming that the valve of the SST is securely closed.

Insert the SST into the caliper and press the caliper piston while opening the valve of the SST slowly by turning it counterclockwise.
Close the valve (A) of the SST and disconnect the air hose (B); then, open the valve again to get the rest of air out and remove the SST from the caliper.
After installation, bleed the brake system.
(Refer to Brake System - "Repair procedures")
Inspection

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Hi,

Replacing front brakes and rotors really isn't too hard to do. Make sure to get lifetime pads so you will never have to pay for them again.

You can expect front brakes to last approximately 25,000 miles. However, that can change based on driving habits and terrain.

To get you started, here is a link that explains in general how the job is done. You can use this as a guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here is a video of the job being done on a Hyundai Sonata. Although it is a different model vehicle, it is very similar.

https://youtu.be/7zjHSFVangI

If you look at the attachments, they include the directions and pictures specific to your vehicle. The directions also include inspection of the pads and rotors.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hello,

Yes follow the instructions below you can do the job by yourself.

check our guide below how to replace front brake pads and discs.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Check the diagrams below specific to your vehicle how to replace and inspect front pads and discs.

hope these helps .

thank you.

Hi,

Replacing front brakes isn't too hard to do. You can expect to get approximately 25,000 miles from a set of pads, but that is based on the driver.

First, here is a link that shows how to replace brakes and rotors in general. You can use this as a guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

INSPECTION OF FRONT DISC BRAKE PAD
1. Check the brake pad thickness through the caliper body inspection hole.

Pad thickness Standard value : 11.0 mm (0.43 in.) / Service limit : 2.0 mm (0.0787 in.)

CAUTION:
a. If the pad lining thickness is out of specification, left and right pads must be replaced as a complete set.
b. When the thickness difference between the left pad and right pad is large, check the sliding condition of the piston and the guide rod.

INSPECTION OF REAR DISC BRAKE PAD
1. Check the brake pad thickness through the caliper body inspection hole.

Pad thickness Standard value : 10.0 mm (0.39 in.) / Service limit : 2.0 mm (0.0787 in.)

CAUTION:
a. If the pad thickness is out of specification, left and right pads must be replaced as a complete set.
b. When the thickness difference between the left pad and right pad is large, check the sliding condition of the piston and the guide rod.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Rmove the lower caliper bolt and pivet the caliper up. Slide the caliper of the bracket-top bolt does not come out.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_replace_brakes.htm

Remove pads, clean all siding surfaces and lube them with quality grease.

.

Two bolts hold tha bracket to the spindle. Remove them and replace the rotors. IF you have rear drum brakes, adjust them.

Cleaning and adjusting rear drum brakes

As brake shoe linings wear thinner, they take longer to reach the brake drum to begin the stopping process. All the time the rears are not making contact, the front brake will be creating the stopping power. This creates several problems. There is a longer distance needed for stopping, excessive heat is placed on the front rotors and brake pads causing premature wear. Emergency brakes may not work because of under adjusted brake shoes. The excessive travel the brake shoe has may not allow the shoe linings to make adequate contact to the brake drum. Many folks don't use the emergency brake also known as the parking brake. But in the event there is total loss of the hydraulic brakes, the emergency brake can be used as a makeshift brake to avoid tragedy. By holding down the emergency brake pedal and holding the release for the parking brake out, a temporary brake system is established. There are some states that require by law for the emergency brake to work correctly. Cleaning and Adjusting the rear brakes will prevent additional problems that can be expensive.

After raising the rear end of the car and securing it with jack stands or on a lift, remove the lug nuts and rear wheels. MAKE SURE IT IS STABLE WHILE IN THE AIR. The rear wheel should come off with no trouble. If it does not want to release, install one lug nut back on part way. With a five-pound hammer hit the inside of the tire towards the outside, spin it a quarter turn and hit it again. Continue until it pops free. Now that you have access to the drum grab it with both hands and attempt to pull it off the hub. Hopefully, it slid off fairly easily. There are different reasons for the drum to stick. Look closely at the base of the studs; if you jostle the drum at all does it look like the drum is moving independent of the wheel studs. If it is not and appears to be one with the drum, take your big hammer or a three-pound is better, whack the areas between the studs on the drum. Do not hit the studs. If you even think you might hit them, put the lug nuts partially back on to protect them. You'll notice it pop after striking it. This may take a little effort or a Herculean one. Once it pops it should slide off. IF not, back off the adjuster on the inside of the drum accessed from the adjuster hole in the backing plate. There have been times they will still stick and hitting the edge of the drum in the same manner, as the tire will aid in getting it off.

Now that the drum is off, get a pick and pull back on the rubber dust boots on the wheel cylinders to be sure that you don't have a wheel cylinder on its way out. If more than a few drips come out, replace both sides. When one goes, the other isn't far behind. If all is good, use a screwdriver, brake adjuster tool or similar to help move parts around while you spray the cleaner. With a catch pan under the brake assembly, spray down the entire brake area starting from the top down. Use your tool to lift up on the shoes and spray in behind the shoes where they ride on the drum. Try to move the adjuster wheel. If it moves freely, you can leave it alone. If it is tight or not moving, use your screwdriver to pry the shoe back and remove the adjuster. If your having trouble getting the adjuster out then pull off any springs you need to accomplish removing the adjuster. If the teeth are worn on the adjuster, replace it.

In a vise tighten the adjuster up in the jaws, use a pair of vise grip style tool to clamp onto the other end of the adjuster and get it free. Tap out and rust and spray it with the brake clean if needed. Use a wire wheel and get the adjuster clean. Lube the area where the adjuster was stuck and work the two parts back and forth. Re-install the adjuster in the same position the way it was removed, but fully turned in. There are various areas that now need to be lubed. The less resistance on moving parts the better. Pry back on each shoe on the top and lubed the post and the top of the shoe, the parking brake pivot arm. There are three raised portions the shoes slide on located on the backing plate. Pry the shoe up and lube these areas.

Going back to the drum, if it is too rough, too thin, badly rusted or damaged from removal, replace it. If not, you need to spray the inside down of it and wipe it clean. Grind off the ridge that is made from the shoes wearing into the drum so you'll be able to adjust it and remove easier next time it has to come off. Wire brush the hub portion in the center where the drum slides onto and lube it. Slide the drum on and spin it. Remove the drum and turn the adjuster several turns to increase the spread of the shoes. Slide the drum back on and spin it. Continue this until you get a slight drag on the shoes. Press the brake pedal with the drums on and recheck it. If there is any drag, pull the drum back off and turn the adjuster in so there is a very slight drag. Over adjusted shoes seem to be followed with a wheel cylinder failure, so don't over tighten. Re-install the wheels and you're done.