Battery fuse keeps popping

Tiny
CA1970
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 NISSAN PATHFINDER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 121,000 MILES
Change thermostat, was hooking ground side of battery back up when I noticed the cable end wouldn't tighten and looked pretty bad. Went and got a new one, cut old one off, put new one on. Ever since the positive side battery fuse block thingy pops the moment you try to start it. Went through 3 already (at $30.00 each) Not sure what is making it pop and need ideas on where to look before changing it yet again. As far as I know, no wires were pinched or crossed when changing thermostat, only harnesses I took off were electric fan and MAF sensor, and both looked good and unlikely to cause battery 120 amp fuse to pop. Battery is new. Any ideas or suggestions?
Friday, September 10th, 2021 AT 8:28 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

For you to blow that heavy of a fuse as soon as the battery is connected, you have a dead short,

Do me a favor. Take a look at the pic below and let me know if that is the one that keeps blowing. Also, check to make sure nothing is touching the positive terminal causing a short. For example, make sure the battery hold down isn't touching.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.
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Friday, September 10th, 2021 AT 9:52 PM
Tiny
CA1970
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
It's A that keeps blowing (140 Amp) it doesn't blow when connected, blow when trying to start vehicle.
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Saturday, September 11th, 2021 AT 6:58 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

That fuse is tied into several different components. If it blows only when you have the key in the start position and not when it's just in the run position, we need to focus on the starter.

That fuse, link A, powers fusible links D, E, and F. From there, power goes everywhere throughout the vehicle. I attached the power distribution schematics below. I highlighted the fusible links involved. If you look at the schematic, you will see how they lead to multiple fuses and circuits. So, if the fuse doesn't blow just by turning the key on to the run position (not start) but does once you hit the start position, then we can limit it to the starter circuit.

If it blows as soon as you turn the key to run, I need you to check for a black wire with a red tracer that runs to the alternator and confirm it isn't shorted in any way.

Interestingly, the only components that get the full power from that fusible link are the alternator and the starter. If I had to guess, that is where the problem is. When you worked on the thermostat, you had to be near that wire (black with a red tracer). That wire would blow link A by itself if it is shorted. Everything else gets power from link A, but are fused at a lower amperage which means they would blow the lower amp fuse first.

Check that specific wire on the alternator and at the starter and make sure there is nothing causing one of them to short. If you are unable to find a problem, I need to know when link A blows, key in run or key in start.

Take care and let me know.

Joe

See pics below. Also, sorry for being so wordy. When I go through schematics, I always end up questioning many things. However, in this case, I believe the black wire with the red tracer is a problem at some point. For me, it is the only one that makes sense.
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Saturday, September 11th, 2021 AT 8:56 PM

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