Sounds like there is a parasitic drain on the system. There is a test that anyone can do for an electrical short. All you need is a multi-meter ($15.00 to $20.00 or so at AutoZone). Disconnect one of the battery cables from the battery. Touch the disconnected cable to the other cable so any residual energy in the system is grounded out. Take your multi-meter, turn it on, and set to 20 volts DC. Take one lead and connect it to the newly disconnected battery cable, and connect the other lead to the battery post that the disconnected cable came from. You should see some sort of reading. Now start unplugging fuses, one at a time, until you see a significant drop in the meters reading. You have now identified the circuit..
This is the multimeter that I have:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-multimeter-digital-with-8-functions-and-20/p-03482141000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
Another way of testing would be to remove two different fuses every day and see if the car starts the next day. If so, then one of those systems is causing the draw. Narrow it down by repeating that test, except only remove one fuse and leave the other in place. This method can take days or weeks to go through, but you will not have to buy any special tools.
Are there any aftermarket electronics on or in the car? Perhaps a stereo system or maybe a beefed up security system? Or have any electrical systems had service performed on them recently? That is where I would start, personally.
Let us know which fuse it was and I will personally look up what is on that circuit.
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Thursday, September 27th, 2018 AT 2:02 PM